2816 Thermostat of just cold blooded?

[LotsofGreenGrass]

Hi Guys!
I have a new 2816 and love it. Neighbors checking out the new machine with binoculars. Jealousy is not always GREEN.

I noticed that the manual indicates that you should not load it up until the temperature gauge is in the green zone. With an ambient temp of around 34-45 F, my tractor never seems to get there. It hangs out at the top end of the yellow zone or on the yellow/green border after running for 25 minutes. If I use it, and say, go up a hill, it will get in to the green zone. Dealer say is not an issue.

Also, I have seen it mentioned that Mitsu makes the whole tractor, not just the engine. Is this true?

Any thoughts?

Brit in Nashville, TN

 

[whiteh2o]

My 2615 is the same way. You will have to let it idle for some time before getting into the green zone. I let mine warm up for 5-10 mintues when it's warm out and longer when it's cold here. I have a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator for the winter. When it's really cold it would never get into the green zone without the cardboard covering the radiator. I questioned the dealer on the same thing and got the same answer. Just let it warm up for a bit and use it.

 

[2TonCommon]

Hi Guys!
I have a new 2816 and love it. Neighbors checking out the new machine with binoculars. Jealousy is not always GREEN.

Also, I have seen it mentioned that Mitsu makes the whole tractor, not just the engine. Is this true?

Any thoughts?

Brit in Nashville, TN

Brit: Everything I've been able to find on the subject points to Mitsubishi as the manufacturer with a Mahindra nameplate. Two dealers also confirmed this. Rebranding is pretty common in cars and trucks, so I guess it makes sense it would happen in the tractor world as well.

 

[matt701]

Speaking of rebranding, see my attachment. I have the 2615 which use to be the Cub Cadet 7265. I believe all of the 15/16 series use to be in the Cub line. Also I am under the impression the entire tractor minus loader valve and loader are mitsubishi.
Same here with getting my tractor to heat up to the green line. It takes awhile and when its 0 or colder it won't reach the green line unless I"m working it.

 

[AchingBack]

Speaking of rebranding, see my attachment. I have the 2615 which use to be the Cub Cadet 7265. I believe all of the 15/16 series use to be in the Cub line. Also I am under the impression the entire tractor minus loader valve and loader are mitsubishi.
Same here with getting my tractor to heat up to the green line. It takes awhile and when its 0 or colder it won't reach the green line unless I"m working it.

Matt, you are correct regarding the Cub Cadet. It is my understanding, when MTD bought Cub Cadet, Mitsubishi didn't want to continue the relationship. Therefore, the new CC CUT is Yanmar built.

Mahindra made a very smart move in adopting the Mitsubishi built models. I couldn't be happier with my 2615.

 

[Eagleview]

I noticed that the manual indicates that you should not load it up until the temperature gauge is in the green zone. With an ambient temp of around 34-45 F, my tractor never seems to get there. It hangs out at the top end of the yellow zone or on the yellow/green border after running for 25 minutes. If I use it, and say, go up a hill, it will get in to the green zone. Dealer say is not an issue.

Fit a thermostat with a higher heat range , it is a must to have the engine run at the recommended temp . Running it below this temp will glaze the cylinder walls and cause other problems . 90% of all engine wear occurs when the engine is cold . The dealer should know better than to say just run it . It doesn't matter how cold(to a point , extreme cold will require blocking of the radiator) or how hot your climate is , changing the thermostat will keep the engine at the correct temp . There is no "one thermostat" for all conditions .

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Fit a thermostat with a higher heat range , it is a must to have the engine run at the recommended temp . Running it below this temp will glaze the cylinder walls and cause other problems . 90% of all engine wear occurs when the engine is cold . The dealer should know better than to say just run it . It doesn't matter how cold(to a point , extreme cold will require blocking of the radiator) or how hot your climate is , changing the thermostat will keep the engine at the correct temp . There is no "one thermostat" for all conditions .

The dealer is correct, and you are also correct (in part). These diesels at idle in the middle of winter will NEVER reach operating temps. My 6000 even in the summer will take 15 minutes to get into the green once I've started working it (and thats only 140 degrees F)....suggest you use the radiator cover, plus you start the tractor, let it idle till the oil gets moving....about 2 minutes, then throttle it up to about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle (at least 1/2 after a couple of minutes at 1/3). Remember, diesels were made to run wide open all the time. Don't baby it!! As far a glazing a cyl wall, if you don't run it up and put pressure on it, when breaking in a new diesel, the rings never seat and it very well may glaze..causing unnecessary oil use. BobG in VA

 

[Eagleview]

I was referring to the fact that the engine temp is below it's operating range while the OP is using it , this bad and not OK . I agree that after a short idle period to get the machine working which will bring the temp up quickly , but by the sound of it , the tractor rarely gets to operating temp unless going up a hill .

 

[Jerry/MT]

Hi Guys!
I have a new 2816 and love it. Neighbors checking out the new machine with binoculars. Jealousy is not always GREEN.

I noticed that the manual indicates that you should not load it up until the temperature gauge is in the green zone. With an ambient temp of around 34-45 F, my tractor never seems to get there. It hangs out at the top end of the yellow zone or on the yellow/green border after running for 25 minutes. If I use it, and say, go up a hill, it will get in to the green zone. Dealer say is not an issue.

Also, I have seen it mentioned that Mitsu makes the whole tractor, not just the engine. Is this true?

Any thoughts?
Brit in Nashville, TN

Diesels, in general, are hard to warm up if you just sit there at idle. Unlike the gas temperatures in a spark igntion engine (which are relatively constant), the gas tempertaures in the cylnder of diesel vary greatly with power. WhenIi start up my Ford 4610 in cold weather I idle for maybe five minutes than start moving slowly at about 1200 rpm. The temp gauge shows me about half way to normal operating temperature in about 5 minutes an I'm at normal operating tempeature in another two minutes. I never wotk it hard until it's at normal operating tempertures. So it helps warm up time to get some load on a diesel engine to warm it up.

My F-350 Powerstroke, on the other hand, has a fuel enrichment capability that warms it up relatively quickly.