2720 finally delivered!

jgayman · Jul 5, 2012

After multiple delivery delays my 2720 finally arrived today! The remote spout control for the 54" blower hadn't come in yet but the dealer agreed to come out and install it once it arrives. I should have a few weeks yet before the first snow hits.

I've been following these forums for quite a while and was able to learn a lot about the tractor before it arrived. I have a few newbie questions to ask so I will thank everyone ahead of time for any advice they can throw my way. I'm coming from a 1954 Ford NAA with a rear blade so other than my JD 175 riding mower this is my first Hydro and first diesel engine.

The tractor seems to work fine except that I noticed the fuel port in the hood contacts the forward edge of the fuel cap when it closes. It actually has a small ding in the lip of the hole (see photos below). I'm a little disappointed that the dealer didn't notice this when prepping the tractor. I'm hoping that resolving the problem is as simple as loosening the mounting bolts for the tank and repositioning it. Does anyone have any experience with a similar issue?

The dealer filled the rear tires with washer fluid but I still need to decide what to do about chains. My drive way is gravel and cuts up a hill so I'm betting I will need chains even with 4WD. Judging by the 1/2" of clearance between the tire and the power steering tie rod ends it seems chains on the front are out of the question. Does anyone think that filling the front tires with Rim Guard will make a noticable difference in traction? According to their charts it should give me an extra 50 lbs per tire.

EdC · Jul 5, 2012

I would not use Rim Guard in the front tires. Get a couple of suitcase weights then you can take them off if you need to. Too much weight will leave ruts when mowing or doing other chores. In 4 winters I have not needed the front tires loaded with either suitcase weights or being filled. Just the weight of the FEL (or your really nice snow blower)

should be more than enough. Winter snowfall here in Washington has varied from 48 inches all the way to well over 100 inches per winter. Deepest snow that I have plowed with the FEL was about 3.5 ft. My driveway is on a slight hill but certainly nothing serious.

jgayman · Jul 5, 2012

I'm not sure I can use suitcase weights with the front blower. The weight bracket is obstructed by the lift mechanism - or so it seems. One of the reasons I'm thinking more weight may be in order is that tonight I was playing around in the driveway and when pointing downhill with the blower lifted if I put the tractor in reverse I have no trouble spinning the rear tires. If I engage 4WD it helps tremendously, which tells me that in reverse the front wheels will be doing most of the work. Granted, with the blower lifted it may be unloading the rear slightly. Since the normal way to use the blower is with the front lift in the "float" position, the front end never really has the benefit of the weight of the blower.

My other ace in the hole is that I will also have my 72" Landpride blade on the rear which weighs about 300 lbs. Since I have a gravel driveway I can only blow down to a few inches to avoid picking up rocks and then use the blade to scrape it bare. I've been doing it with way for 20+ years using a combination of a big walk-behind blower and a rear-mounted blade on the '54 NAA. Speaking of the NAA, I'm using it as a guide for traction. It had 13.6x28 rear tires with 400 lbs of steel weights on EACH tire and V-bar tire chains and I needed every bit of that to maintain traction during big snows when things get icy. So even though I am going from 2WD to 4WD I am also going from a 4000 lb tractor to a 2500 lb tractor.

It will probably take the first big snow to sort everything out. I just want to be as prepared as possible knowing that you can never have too much weight or traction in the snow and ice.

Deere2320 · Jul 6, 2012

It sounds to me as though your need rear weight on the rear. The extra weight of that blower is making the tractor unproperly balanced and thus putting too much weight on the front axle. I'd say either a ballast box or your rear blade and maybe hang some sort of weight off the rear blade and you should be set.

smalltown · Jul 6, 2012

jgayman there are several post around about the same gas tank cover issue including mine. I haven't changed anything on mine yet (wainting for my fuel tank to empty) apparently the fix is to add washers to the mounts for the fuel tank to more center the cap in the hole. Mine is a 2520 but the issue is the same. With a brand new tractor I would want and expect the dealer to remidy that issue for you. I talked to my dealer and apparently not enought people are complainging as the dealer told me he hasn't heard anything. I did show him a new 2720 on his lot with the same issue as yours.

puffyshirt · Jul 6, 2012

My brand new 2520 has the same fuel tank/cap issue. Already has a slight ding. Either I did it when I opened it for the first time or the dealer did it during prep. Not a huge deal for me, but a little disappointing...

Intend to try the washer mod once the tank gets emptier....

Saw other threads on this, and can't believe the new ones still have the issue... wonder if my dealer is aware... I have not told him yet. Am awaiting delivery of my new iMatch and I will bring it up..

smalltown · Jul 6, 2012

I hope people will complain to their respective dealers. JD told mine they were not aware of any problems, and to try the washer route. Problems like this, however minor should be addressed by Deere.

roush9799 · Jul 6, 2012

Like I said in the other post. Mine doesn't hit, but I'd think they'd do something since it's under warranty. My cap is right in the center. I'm gonna look in the morning and see if maybe the dealer already shimmed it or if it's right from the factory.