268 Baler Problem

[trailrider1205]

Could use some help. The bill hook keeps holding on one side. I do have the manual plus the NH knotter manual.
I have adjusted the knife arm so that is travels 1/2" past and then just rubs on the bottom of the bill hook.
It will bale 5 or 6 in a row and then it hangs up and breaks. So often that after I saw 5 or 6 in the field I was watching to see if the next one was tied or not.

I also loosen the pressure on the bill hook and that didn't help either.

Was able to finish out the field.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[flow]

I heaqrd that we should check the little bearing down under the bill hooks, and lo and behold: mine had a couple of flat spots on it, only on the side that was messing up...
Now I need to figure oout how to change it.
In the mean time, something big happened. It's hard to say what happened first, but the shear bolt up there was broken, (right after that, the other shear bolt broke too... my first indication of trouble.) the other knotter was out of time and all messed up, including the bearing end of the knife holder being busted at the pin, the housing's cracked, and I'm not sure of why...
In any event, it would sure be nice to find another set, because this appears to be a very high milage setup, so I'd rather not weld it all back together and figure out that the gears are so worn out that they can skip and cause this sort of major work stoppage...
Know where I might fond a reasonable set?
I'll let you know when I figure the bearing change out.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I know this sounds simple but often you can just look at the knoters and see what is different. don't look at the knoter look at each piece, then look at the other side, compare, take your time and look. run your fingers over the duck bill looking for any rough serface. If your fingers can feal it the twine can catch on it. I used to put up 10000 bales a year and that was my way. o if the duck bill showes worn places replace it. hope this helps.

 

[flow]

Thank you Ed:
Actually, initially the right side was missing bales, which I now know was because the bearing on the bottom of the duck bill had flat spots, so sometimes it didn't open enough. However:
I don't know if the knotter shear pin went first, or if the left side knotter jumped a gear for some reason, but the knife holder ended up broken in two, the frame has a crack in it, and there are some other issues going on.
Luckily, the ram stop worked, so the needles are okay.
After looking around, a tactor junk yard I know of is selling the knotters for as cheaply as I can find anyone else selling them for, and they said they have several sets to choose from, so for 150.00 I should be back in business tomorrow morning, and then I'll weld up the other one, and fix the bearing on the other, other one, and have a spare set laying around for that energency fix for me or my neighbors...
I would like to know what went first though...
Thanks again.

 

[trailrider1205]

I ended up rebuilding my knife arms. I used the brass roller that you can buy for the new ones. Just cut then end off the old one the drilled and tapped a hole. Found a washer the right size (had to look for ever) Then used the screw that came with the new one. I also then removed the actual knife and sharpened it up. The new knife was different. I used the screw that came with the new on to hold the old one back one.

Before I even used this baler I went through it with a fine comb. One thing I had stuck was the arm underneath that keeps the needles from hitting the chute. Probably wasn't ever greased. There is a grease zirt under there. A manual is a must!

 

[trailrider1205]

I ended up rebuilding my knife arms. I used the brass roller that you can buy for the new ones. Just cut then end off the old one the drilled and tapped a hole. Found a washer the right size (had to look for ever) Then used the screw that came with the new one. I also then removed the actual knife and sharpened it up. The new knife was different. I used the screw that came with the new on to hold the old one back one.

Before I even used this baler I went through it with a fine comb. One thing I had stuck was the arm underneath that keeps the needles from hitting the chute. Probably wasn't ever greased. There is a grease zirt under there. A manual is a must!