2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520

   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520 #1  

BlackRaptor

Gold Member
Joined
May 13, 2008
Messages
382
Location
SEMN
Tractor
John Deere 3320
Hey guys,
I've asked this question before but it's been a long time and now i'm finally ready to purchase looking have the new one no later than Aug.

I currently have a 2008 John Deere 2520 200CX FEL 62D MMM 250 hours.
What can i expect on trade for this machine can someone give me a basic range?

I've been talking to the dealer and they keep telling me to not get the 3320 to get the 3720 which isn't an option too expensive than they tried to push the 3520.
My thought process is the 2520 has MORE than enough power for mowing loader work and a 3pt blower. I've never really ran into something where the 2520 flat out does not cut it for me. I have 5 acres mostly young trees so it's all mowing long rows.

What i want is the 3320 Cab 72 7 iron MMM 300cx loader. With the added power requirements from the E hydro AC and Heat can i expect about the same power capabilities as the 2520? if the 3320 cab can do everything the 2520 can do power wise while the AC is running I will be 100% happy.

Going to talk to the dealer more Monday or any info you guys can provide would be very helpful
Thanks
Chad
 
   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520 #2  
BlackRaptor,
I went from the 2720 to the 3320 without the cab BUT with the 485 BH which weighs about three times the cab. The 3320 is little sluggish pulling up hills with the BH on but not that bad. I could have gone with the 35 or 3720 but I didn't want the turbo also the 3320 has a bigger block than either of it more powerful siblings.

I do notice with the 59" blower the power is a little short, the thing that saves me is the "load match". With it off (I keep it on) I had times when the engine would conk out if I pushed into a large compost pile but with the load match on I have no problems. The three speed box will get you through anything regardless of the tractor, the difference is if you run down the road to help out a neighbor as I sometimes do. The 3320 will bog down on hills I think the other two tractors probably won't. If you don't mind going slower you will be fine though.

You won't notice any difference with the loader as the hydraulics are the same for all three machines. I think the wild card is the AC. The cab weighs about 500 lbs but you need to find out how much the AC sucks in HP from the system.

My advice: Go test drive the different tractors and push each one to see what you'll get, that's a lot of money to make a mistake with!

Rob
 
   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520 #3  
I don't know what a 2520 "feels" like when it comes to power, but my mother's cab 3320 feels distinctly underpowered compared to my 3038e. At max rated power her 5 foot bushhog struggles with grass that I handle fine with my 6 footer at 15% below maximum. It "feels" like I've got 50% more PTO hp than she does, not 20% more as the specs suggest. Now, would her machine do all that you want? I don't know, but I have wondered more than once if the specs for the cabbed ehydro 3x20 series with A/C should be derated from what Deere publishes. I would also point out something that has been mentioned numerous times here on the forum--the cab 3x20 series does not feel stable on slopes. I routinely cut across slopes with my 3038e that I wouldn't dream of attempting with hers. My personal opinion is that Deere did not do its homework on the 3x20 series cab models from the standpoint of power and stability.
 
   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520 #4  
i had a 2520 then went to a 3320.

the 2520 ran a 72inch finish mower much better than the 3320 did. both open station tractors.

got a 3720 cab now and unbelievable power.
 
   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks for the info. I've went to the dealer and drove the 3720 around a couple times though running around in the parking lot you can't really judge anything power wise.
I'm surprised to hear how under powered the 3320 is. Maybe i better shell out a few more grand and get a 3530 cab 72" deck and FEL VS the 3320. switching tractors is really expensive so i only want to do this one more time than run this next machine for 10+ years.
What is the normal rule of them when getting a price out of the dealer 15% off MSRP?
 
   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520 #6  
Honestly, I have never felt like 5 more horsepower is that much of a difference. 3320 to 3520. My 3320 carries a 72" mid mower and a 447 backhoe with 300cx loader up hills without any problems at all. That's what "A" range is for guys. If your 2520 can do all the things already, the 3320 should handle all the chores you throw at it and more. The 3320 is a bigger blocked engine over 3520 and 3720 that is true. If you are looking at a cabbed model, then go with 3720 and get a bigger horsepower and pto bump over the 3520. 43.2 from 37.1 in horsepower. That to me would be worth the upgrade. If you stay with an open station, go with the 3320 and get a 485 backhoe with the extra cash. Most important, you know your budget and what you can afford. Whatever your decsion is, I'm sure you will be pleased. All the 3x20 series tractors are great machines.
 
   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520 #7  
BlackRaptor,
I would go for a 3720 and hold firm for 18% off, the premium priced tractors have more room for a discount. Trading up is expensive, do it once and do it right.
 
   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520 #8  
Hiya,

I had a 2520 and now have a 3320 cab. I live on a mountain so I can also speak to stability of the 2. First off, I have not found the 3320 lacking in power and traction. On the other hand, I always found the 2520 to have more power than the chassis could put to the ground. Now, I'm not gonna lie and say the 3320 goes up my drivway in c range, it won't. Neither would my 2520 go up the driveway in high range. I used to cut with a 5 foot finish mower on the 2520, it would run through anything without lugging, I don't mow with the 3320 as with loaded tires and a loader it would push the 6K mark and that's more than I want on the grass. I had a 3 pt 5' blower on the 2520, it would go through snow well but it would bog it down a little in heavy wet snow, the 59" front blower on the 3320 performs a bit better, but roughly the same. It's a tie. As far as stability, the 2520 and the 3320 cab are about the same. Both are vastly better with loaded tires, the 2520 needs the weight to get traction and stability, the 3320 cab needs the loaded tires for stability.

I would call your dealer and ask him to drop off a 3320 cab at your place for a demo. Tell them your concerns and that you will only spend the money on the 3720 once you see for yourself that the 3320 won't be able to do the job. When I was looking to upgrade from the 2520, the dealer had a demo 3320 at my house the next morning. If your really concerned about not having enough HP, there is always the 4720. (My point is that you can get obsesed with HP rating. While having a few extra HP on the PTO is nice but if you don't really need it, your spending $ for no good reason.)

As far as the 3038E having a much more powerful PTO, I'm not suprised it feels like that, those series tractors are designed for PTO performance, whereas the 3x20 deluxe series is meant for operator comfort, loader performance and ease of use.

Hope it helps,

To
 
   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520 #9  
I currently have a 2720 and just sold a 3320. They both had the same engine but were different animals. I never found the 3320 underpowered for it's size. That said, if I was to get a cab, I would get the 3520. I think the 3720 is probably a little overkill in that chassis, but you would never lack for power. The 35 and 37 will run the blower, cab, heat and all in great comfort. They will also handle a mower, A/C, and hills very well in combination.
 
   / 2520 upgrading to a 3320 or 3520 #10  
I just took delivery of my 2012 3720 combo which replaced my 2005 3720 combo listed in my sig..
After owning an older 4300, I knew that the extra money spent on power would be worth it given the aggravation of being under-powered when torque is needed. The 4300 would definitely object cutting tall grass at a decent speed, and I would have to slow down. Very aggravating...

The only advice I can give is that if you can afford more power, buy it because it comes back at resale time anyway..
The 3320 ran the same engine as my 4300, and I found it to be weak when I needed the power the most.
My 3720 has never even shown a slight bog in all of the years I've owned it, and I absolutely love the tractor...
 

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