KennyG
Elite Member
I replaced the engine driveshaft U-Joints on my 2010 2320 today with the Moog 410 joints that have the grease zerk in the end cap instead of the almost inaccessible location on the cross piece. To be clear, there was nothing wrong with the originals. After 930 hours, they were fine and would have been OK for years to come. I was just tired of the effort required to grease them. I know this has been covered a number of times in the past, but my experience was a little different than others have reported, so I thought I would share it.
Here is the strip down required to either replace the U-joints or lubricate the original ones. Requires removal of various pedals and levers, the floor, and the lower coweling.
To remove the driveshaft you have to release the front yoke. It is pinned to the engine shaft and the pins are retained by a snap ring. The snap ring is massive. After breaking one set of snap ring plier ends, I got out the Dremel and cut the snap ring. I had anticipated some problem and got new snap rings and roll pins before starting this.
After driving out the roll pins, to my surprise the shaft wouldn't come out. Sliding back and forth on the shafts didn't allow it come off. Since the rear u-joint is easily accessible, I took it apart in place and this allowed me to remove the shaft.
I don't have a press, but the joints came apart with a little tapping and went back together easily using a C-clamp. I've seen a posting claiming the new joints were too long and had to be ground down, but mine were exact replacements. The only catch is that you can't use the supplied snap rings on the cap with the zerk. You have to use one of the old snap rings, so don't throw them away.
Reinstallation was pretty much the reverse, with having to assemble the rear joint in place. The problem was the snap ring on the front yoke. There are probably some massive pliers that work for this, but I couldn't reinstall the ring. The correct way is to put the ring on the yoke shoulder, slide the shaft into place, install the roll pins and then slide the snap ring over them. The only way I could get the snap ring back on was to get one end started in the groove and manhandle it by twisting it into place in the groove. Then the problem was installing the pins. I was able to use my pliers to separate the ends of the ring just enough with the shaft in place and insert the pins.
I had a few thoughts after getting this done. Maybe I should have bought the repair manual. Maybe you are supposed to unbolt the drive plate from the flywheel. Maybe I just don't have the right tools. Why didn't they pin the driveshaft to the transmission where it's easy to work on instead of the to the engine. Why did the new u-joints have snap rings that interferred with the zerk. Anyway, it's done. I'll address the new access in the next post.
Here is the strip down required to either replace the U-joints or lubricate the original ones. Requires removal of various pedals and levers, the floor, and the lower coweling.
To remove the driveshaft you have to release the front yoke. It is pinned to the engine shaft and the pins are retained by a snap ring. The snap ring is massive. After breaking one set of snap ring plier ends, I got out the Dremel and cut the snap ring. I had anticipated some problem and got new snap rings and roll pins before starting this.
After driving out the roll pins, to my surprise the shaft wouldn't come out. Sliding back and forth on the shafts didn't allow it come off. Since the rear u-joint is easily accessible, I took it apart in place and this allowed me to remove the shaft.
I don't have a press, but the joints came apart with a little tapping and went back together easily using a C-clamp. I've seen a posting claiming the new joints were too long and had to be ground down, but mine were exact replacements. The only catch is that you can't use the supplied snap rings on the cap with the zerk. You have to use one of the old snap rings, so don't throw them away.
Reinstallation was pretty much the reverse, with having to assemble the rear joint in place. The problem was the snap ring on the front yoke. There are probably some massive pliers that work for this, but I couldn't reinstall the ring. The correct way is to put the ring on the yoke shoulder, slide the shaft into place, install the roll pins and then slide the snap ring over them. The only way I could get the snap ring back on was to get one end started in the groove and manhandle it by twisting it into place in the groove. Then the problem was installing the pins. I was able to use my pliers to separate the ends of the ring just enough with the shaft in place and insert the pins.
I had a few thoughts after getting this done. Maybe I should have bought the repair manual. Maybe you are supposed to unbolt the drive plate from the flywheel. Maybe I just don't have the right tools. Why didn't they pin the driveshaft to the transmission where it's easy to work on instead of the to the engine. Why did the new u-joints have snap rings that interferred with the zerk. Anyway, it's done. I'll address the new access in the next post.
