2305 governor linkage question

[mercdv]

Hey all,

I need some help and I'm hoping this is the place to get it. First, I'd like to start off by saying I have really basic mechanic skills. By basic I mean I can follow service manuals and that is about it. My 2305 sat parked for a long time due to a sick child and back injury. When I started it up last time it ran fine at low idle but when I throttled up it jumped to max RPM's and stayed there. The throttle had no effect and the tractor would not shutoff. It was not increasing RPM's like a runaway but just stuck at max RPM's. I finally got it shutoff by cutting the air supply. I got mad and left it for a long time again and just now getting back to working on it. The fuel solenoid checks out just fine. The throttle didn't seem like it was moving much in the governor so I have removed the governor but here is where I am lost because the manual doesn't say anything about the fuel injection pump and the info I can find on the web doesn't answer my question. So here goes...

The engine is a Yanmar 3TNV76 in case you need to know. The question I have is in the picture (below) "D" is the governor linkage that attaches the governor to the fuel injection pump with pin "C." Where the linkage connects to the rod and spring coming out of the injection pump (not sure what it is called but it is what the red arrow points to), that was really hard to move to get the linkage apart. Having never worked on one of these before is that rod and spring supposed to slide freely in and out of the pump with very little pressure. I'm assuming it shouldn't take much pressure but I have no idea. If it is supposed to move freely I'm guessing that is my problem since mine doesn't and it seems like that is the only part that doesn't move freely in the governor area that could be stuck to cause the high RPM's. Any thoughts? In the picture that is the governor housing on the left and the fuel injection pump on the right.



Thanks....

 

[beenthere]

:welcome: to TBN
Poked around a bit, and came across this Yanmar .pdf on your engine.
http://amotordiesel.com.br/uploads/TNV_IDI_ServiceManual_7-28-05.pdf

Some info on page 5-28 regards the governor..

Hope this helps.. but may require being taken to a Yanmar service center. Hope not..

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Old fuel become sticky....replace with new and see if it solves your peoblem ?

 

[mercdv]

Thanks so much for the quick reply and thanks for the PDF link, beenthere. I had found that PDF too and from what I'm putting together in my simple mind is that the rod and spring are supposed to move freely but I'm not sure. I kind of hope that someone who has experience can confirm that for me since it doesn't really talk about that rod and spring in the PDF. I'm trying to figure out if it can be worked free or if it has to be serviced by a diesel shop. Trying to get a little more understanding before I talk to the shop. It's a new shop and I don't know if I can trust them but it is also 31 miles closer than the old place I used so I'd like to try them.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

new fuel and then work it by hand....if it free up ....time well spend

 

[mercdv]

new fuel and then work it by hand....if it free up ....time well spend

I tried that when I first pulled it, no dice. I was hoping it would have been easy like that.

Was thinking about trying Seafoam in it next...but it is really hard to move like I really have to force it with leverage and I'm scared I will mess it up.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Remove the fuel inlet & return lines from the inj. pump..
Let the fuel drain out..
Spray abunch or penetrating oil in the holes, let it sit 20 minutes & work the rack back & forth..
Keep doing THAT until its free..
BUMPING the engine over to different spots will speed up the process.. as it will "open," different positions inside the pump so the pen. oil can work better..
Good luck.

 

[mercdv]

Remove the fuel inlet & return lines from the inj. pump..
Let the fuel drain out..
Spray abunch or penetrating oil in the holes, let it sit 20 minutes & work the rack back & forth..
Keep doing THAT until its free..
BUMPING the engine over to different spots will speed up the process.. as it will "open," different positions inside the pump so the pen. oil can work better..
Good luck.

I'll give that a shot...thanks.

 

[mercdv]

Well, I'm either making progress or I've trashed a $4000 fuel injection pump. I filled the fuel filter housing with Sea Foam and used the manual pump to fill up the fuel injection pump until it flowed back into the tank. Let it sit for awhile before trying to move the fuel rack. I could move it out a little but it didn't want to go back in at all. Considering it has to be rebuilt if this doesn't work I was willing to push things a little bit. I did tap on it some with the plastic handle of a screw driver and got it moving in a little at a time. I gently tapped on it until it went all the way in, all while spinning the engine a bit between sets of tapping. I did this about 4 times pulling it out and tapping it back in and each time it gets easier. I'm now letting it soak for 24 hours before I repeat the process. It is definitely getting easier to move but it is still not moving easily. So, I either made a colossal mistake by tapping on it and broke/bent something or the calculated gamble worked.

Question, any good place online to get Yanmar engine parts? JD doesn't have some of the engine parts listed. I'd like to order a couple things instead of making them cause I got several projects on my plate and I want to get this thing done. I found a parts list for the actual engine so I am thinking about ordering a few spare parts that the JD shop doesn't carry to have on hand anyway.

 

[thepumpguysc]

ALL you really had to do was, pull the side cover..
Those little screws are TIGHT.. so a hand impact driver & a Phillips bit will get you in there..
THATS what the rack is turning, under the side cover.. control segments.. hooked to the pumping plungers..
The p. plungers are stuck from sitting, is my guess & all your doing is trying to break-up the varnished fuel..
Your just going about it from the "other" end..[gov] Lol.
Spraying pen. oil IN the fuel inlet & outlet will break up the varnish the fastest.. Just keep at it..
IF you applied TO MUCH force to the end of the rack, it IS possible to break off the teeth on the segments..
BUT just tapping on it w/ a plastic handle screwdriver wont do it.. so I think your good..

BTW> where are you located in SC?? I'm between Santee & Monks Corner.. IF your close enough I'll come give you a hand.

 

[mercdv]

ALL you really had to do was, pull the side cover..
Those little screws are TIGHT.. so a hand impact driver & a Phillips bit will get you in there..
THATS what the rack is turning, under the side cover.. control segments.. hooked to the pumping plungers..
The p. plungers are stuck from sitting, is my guess & all your doing is trying to break-up the varnished fuel..
Your just going about it from the "other" end..[gov] Lol.
Spraying pen. oil IN the fuel inlet & outlet will break up the varnish the fastest.. Just keep at it..
IF you applied TO MUCH force to the end of the rack, it IS possible to break off the teeth on the segments..
BUT just tapping on it w/ a plastic handle screwdriver wont do it.. so I think your good..

BTW> where are you located in SC?? I'm between Santee & Monks Corner.. IF your close enough I'll come give you a hand.

Ya know, I was wondering about that after I found the parts list last night. I assumed I wasn't supposed to take the side cover off since the screws are basically painted over. The parts list seems to show that the side access was for general maintenance like you are telling me now. I'm kind of intimidated by this pump because of all the warnings in the literature about screwing up timings, injectors, and operations. My specialty is computers not engines, can you tell?...lol. I'll get that cover off and attack it from that end now. Hopefully I didn't break anything already. Guess I'll find out when I remove the side cover.

Thanks for offering to help but you are about 4hrs from me.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yea, 4 hrs IS abit of a drive, just for a cold beer.. lol.. cuz it would take me about 10 minutes to fix it..
I've done THAT ALOT on those pumps.. on the engine..
One of the most important things to know is> You HAVE TO USE a hand impact driver & hammer to get the screws loose.!!!
THEY WILL round off.. QUICK.. & your stuck chiseling them out.. & nobody got time for dat.. lol
Once your inside, its pretty self explanatory.. above the springs is a "segment".. the segment turns left & right.. inside the segment is the pumping plunger.. THAT is what pumps the fuel to the injectors.. it/they're stuck..
DO NOT loosen any screws on the segment.!!! OR stick your screwdriver between the 2 halves of the segment.. The screw holds the equal delivery to each cylinder.. & the segments are made of light metal.. to much force will snap'm like a twig.. so don't pry between'm.
You can spray you favorite penetrating oil inside the pump to help see.. it'll wash out.
BUMPING the engine to a different cylinders will speed up the process.. spray, move rack/segments/spray.. bump engine/spray/move segments.. bump engine.. & so forth..
REMOVE the lines AT THE INJECTOR.!!! BEFORE starting this process.!!
The LAST THING you want to happen is> the engine starting w/ a stuck rack in the WIDE OPEN position..
Removing the lines AT the injectors will guarantee that NO fuel will get injected into the cylinders & accidently start the motor..
HEED the warnings & follow the directions & your next post will be a happy one..
Good Luck.

 

[mercdv]

One of the most important things to know is> You HAVE TO USE a hand impact driver & hammer to get the screws loose.!!!
THEY WILL round off.. QUICK.. & your stuck chiseling them out.. & nobody got time for dat.. lol

Could you hear me cussing all the way on the other side of the state? I read this post after I attempted to remove the cover so needless to say it didn't go as I planned. I made the mistake of using a regular impact driver to try and remove them. Wish I had read this sooner because you weren't kidding when you said they round off quickly. Even on the very lowest setting it still rounded off the last two of them without even breaking them free. Ended up having to use some locking pliers to get them out. It's all good though because I hate phillips head screws. I know they are good for preventing over tightening and damage to the part but I don't like them on machine parts. I went out and got some different types to replace them.

On a positive note, I got the fuel rack moving freely. :applause: With your help, it took me about 30 minutes to get the thing freed up. I can see the score marks put on the pinions and the tappet assemblies at the factory and they are still lined up. Looks like I didn't knock any teeth off or knock them out of alignment. I'm hoping nothing is damaged internally. I'm going to let it sit over night soaking and start putting it back together tomorrow. I have to make a new gasket for the governor so not sure I'll get it all done tomorrow. My plan (if it runs) is to get everything all warmed up then change all the fluids. I'll let ya know if it is running again.

Thanks so much for the help!!!!

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yeah, they sure skimped on the "heat treat": on those screws.. ALL of them are soft.[more on the bottom]
SURE AM GLAD it worked out.. I hate to think my 30 years of inj. pump experience went to waste.. Lol
UNLESS you tore the gasket, reuse it.. its thick.. if it makes u feel better, smear alittle silicone on it.. A LITTLE..
Good Luck & keep us posted.. TPG

 

[mercdv]

It's ALIVE!!! It's ALIVE!!! (Young Frankenstein reference, not the original. :laughing: ) I'm behind a few days because I went to town to buy supplies and completely forgot to buy the lock washers. Also, I decided to change the oil before starting it because the oil was charcoal black. After I got it all put back together, she started right up on first try. I still have to adjust the throttle cable, change out the coolant, change the transmission fluid, and fab a new battery holder (non-standard battery in it now).

I did end up replacing the gasket because the factory gasket had a portion that was hanging inside the governor housing and it got shredded. There was debris from it in the housing when I took it off. Plus, my dad always told me to replace everything that doesn't cost much when tearing something down just to be safe. I know it can be overkill but when pops says something I tend to follow it. He's got 75 years under his belt so I'm assuming his knowledge is way more than mine. He doesn't own a diesel so I wanted to let him rest and not ask him about all this.

Thanks for all the help...I think I'm going to put a fork in this one and call it solved. I GREATLY appreciate all the advice.

 

[thepumpguysc]

That is GREAT NEWS.. Always nice to hear a success story..
Thanks for posting the results & glad I could help.. but a cold beer woulda been nice. Lol
NOW YA KNOW, what not to do..
If your gonna store a diesel for more than a month>> TREAT THE FUEL..
Happy Tractoring.. TPG