2210 valve adjustment

/ 2210 valve adjustment #11  
Here's the method that I have always used that is absolutely bulletproof.

Using a breaker bar and the right size socket for the large nut that holds your crankshaft damper on, turn your motor over in the same direction as normal rotation, until the valve you wish to adjust is depressed to it's fullest and stop. Either note the position of your crankshaft damper, or make a chalk mark to note it's position (ex. 12 o'clock). Now turn the engine over exactly one revolution to where the mark on the damper comes back to the same position (12 o'clock), and stop again. Now adjust that valve with the confidence that the lifter is truly riding on the base circle of the cam at it's lowest point.

Move on the next valve, and repeat the same procedure. Don't have to worry about TDC, whether on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke, etc.

I usually mark my crankshaft damper in 90 degree increments ( one quarter "slices") with the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 using some touch up paint. Only have to do it once, then I can readily guage the crankshaft position anytime I need to adjust the valves.

This always works on any four stroke motor because tha cam is always spinning at one-half the RPM of the engine.

Wrench with confidence!

Thanks
Bill
 
/ 2210 valve adjustment #12  
What size gauge do you use? The exhaust should be different from the intake.
 
/ 2210 valve adjustment #13  
"I usually mark my crankshaft damper in 90 degree increments ( one quarter "slices") with the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 using some touch up paint. Only have to do it once, then I can readily guage the crankshaft position anytime I need to adjust the valves.'

That sounds like a lot of unnecessary work. It's easy to tell when a valve is closed.
 

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