22 rifle miss firering

[Trainer]

Sounds like it still has some crud in the extractor and slot where the firing pin operates. May need to disassemble and throughly clean each part.

 

[RoyJackson]

Paddy,

Dry firing may or may not hurt the firing pin, it depends on the firearm. I know on my S&W third generation pistols dry firing is ok. Dry firing is a good way to practice trigger control.

Later,
Dan

That's correct with some centerfire guns, but rimfires (like the .22) still should be dry fired.
I prefer to use snapcap, even with the centerfire guns.

 

[Paddy]

SnowRidge,

I'm as guilty as prev owner. Not that I have used it much, less than 500 shots in 10 years. I keep in my office out in the open so she got a bit dusty!

Patrick T.

 

[RoyJackson]

That's correct with some centerfire guns, but rimfires (like the .22) still should be dry fired.
I prefer to use snapcap, even with the centerfire guns.

That should have been rimfire weapons should not be dryfired!

Sorry!!!!!!!!

 

[MrJimi]

Like the others have said, a good cleaning and if your using old bullets you may have that problem, go clean and lubricate your gun and get a box of new bullets and your problems should be over. Unless thats why it got sold to begin with ?
Jim

 

[jimg]

I *used* to own a Marlin 60 and found that to work properly (and reliably) it needed to be well lubed, clean and use only particular types of ammo. I found CCI Minimags and Win Powerpoints worked best esp the later. I cant stress the clean part enough. I found that after every 2-300 rds the thing was filthy inside. All in all its not the best design. The fire control comes out in a single piece and it tedious to get really clean. Powder Blaster helps in that regard. Jusst lubing isnt going to be enough.

 

[chucko]

I have had some 22s auto loaders like yours that were real picky about ammo. What are you shooting? Try some stinngers or yellow jackets?

 

[marimus]

I like the Yellow Jackets, but I found in some of my 22's they have trouble feeding because of the shape of the projectile (truncated cone).

Also, I seem to have to clean more often with them.

Just my experience.

 

[keving]

Brake cleaner spray works great to get the tight spots on bolts. Be careful if you are using near wood or plastic. I buy brake cleaner by the case to clean my glocks. I use Butch's Bore Shine on the chamber and bore. Check out a local autoparts store to see if they will cut you a deal. It's a quick way to clean but make sure to do it outdoors...

 

[WTA]

Rim fires should NEVER be dry fired.

When you do this the firing pin impacts the rear edge of the chamber eventually causing a dent in it. THis makes the bullet hang up, possibly causing misfires as was described already. Especially in a semi auto. All it takes is a little dent. That's why there are so many tools available from the gunsmithing supply houses just for ironing out that dent. It's probably the most common problem with 22's there is.

If a manual tells you that cleaning is not necessary then I'd throw it in the trash. That garbage goes way back to when they came out with smokeless powder. You will get away with it for a little while but think about your kids that may inherit it some day. I doubt they will be able to use it any more.
I work on military weapons for a living from the 1903 Springfield up to the M-14. You wouldn't believe how many barrels I've replaced just because they were never cleaned right. 22's are no different in that respect. The moving parts in the action also can become so gummed up that it will stop working eventually.

Brake cleaner is good for cleaning but it's best to follow it with some good gun oil. I prefer break free CLP in the spray can. The problem with brake cleaner is the propellant in the can. It causes rapid moisture condensation. If you don't get it off it will rust.