2013 Kioti DK45se Hydro cranking but no start

[ritcheyvs]

Just REMOVE IT from the engine.. its only 2 bolts.. & takes 5 minutes..
Seeing u have the 3 wire sol. it doesn't need a body ground.. Just push on the rod alittle while turning the key to start, IT SHOULD SLAM SHUT & hold there....

Actually, the SS plunger should retract (vigorously) as soon as the key is turned to ON; you don't even need to turn the key to crank the position.

...The tractor will probably start so you'll have to reach in the hole & push the rack to shut it down..

If the engine starts with the SS removed it proves the SS (or the circuits that power it) is the problem. If you are squeamish about sticking a finger in the SS hole, briefly slide the SS back in place (over the studs) and that will stop the engine. Or if you have a manual stop lever, use that.

I would really like to know: It looks like the "gold" SS (E6850-60011, shown in post #4 photo on right) is an upgrade to the one shown in the photo on the left (E5850-60011). This makes me wonder if the solenoid design was modified to reduce the stress on the injection pump gears (control sleeves) and if that is the reason these gears don't break in tractors newer than the 2008 build year???? This would be good to know. If so, all of us with 2005-2008 models should upgrade the new SS design. Perhaps one of the smart TBN dealers (MIE?) can comment?

 

[grsthegreat]

remember to check the fuses also. i had this issue with mine, and i replaced the start solenoid and the relay....was snowing didnt want to mess with it. it works now and has for past 3 years. one thing on mine, the stat solonoid relay was not the one listed in repair manual, but the other one. some models arnt wired correctly is what my dealer warmed me.

 

[gsholz]

Time for an update. Finally figured it out.

I ordered a new stop solenoid because I could measure the hold voltage and a blip of pull spike voltage (hard to see on a slow digital voltmeter) and the coil resistances seemed in the ball park. I plugged in the new solenoid and to my dismay it would not retract but hold when pushed in. So my problem really was in the supply. I measured both relays on the bench - they seemed perfect. Coils intact and switching appropriately. Fuses were all fine.

Out of frustration I replaced the relays anyway. The tractor started. It turns out, the left relay when looked from front had some strange current limiting failure. It would show full continuity when on but apparently would not carry sufficient amps to activate the pull coil. I have never seen that before.

Anyway, you guys were correct. It was the (left) relay after all. Thanks for all the help.

 

[xcgreene]

Time for an update. Finally figured it out.

I ordered a new stop solenoid because I could measure the hold voltage and a blip of pull spike voltage (hard to see on a slow digital voltmeter) and the coil resistances seemed in the ball park. I plugged in the new solenoid and to my dismay it would not retract but hold when pushed in. So my problem really was in the supply. I measured both relays on the bench - they seemed perfect. Coils intact and switching appropriately. Fuses were all fine.

Out of frustration I replaced the relays anyway. The tractor started. It turns out, the left relay when looked from front had some strange current limiting failure. It would show full continuity when on but apparently would not carry sufficient amps to activate the pull coil. I have never seen that before.

Anyway, you guys were correct. It was the (left) relay after all. Thanks for all the help.

Thanks for the update, glad you got it all worked out before winter. Always good to have some closure on threads like this.