2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start

   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start #1  

Bamacummins

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Aug 8, 2009
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Chattanooga TN
Been trying to figure this out for a few days. First, new battery this spring, seems fine - 12.8 volts. Turn key switch on, two lights very dim, tach is blinking with no hour reading. I've tested all the limit/safety switches except the HST which is next (using the service manual I downloaded to trouble shoot) They were all fine. Turn key to try and start and battery voltage is good, which I hope means the "new" battery isn't the problem. The only weird thing that has happened is that the timer relay is making some noise and after turning key on and back off it buzzes for about 5-10 seconds. I've reviewed all the electrical diagrams and can't figure out any issues. Fuses good, voltage at starter and alternator all show good voltage, grounds seem secure to the tractor frame. Can't find any frayed wires on the harness anywhere, nothing.... First day of troubleshooting I thought it was the key switch, so I put a new one in and same results. I can understand not starting if it the HST switch, fuel relay or something, but I'm not even getting proper lights on dash. Any other ideas? Thanks.
 
   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start #2  
Even though the battery has 12V it could be bad and not have CCA's . I would have the battery load tested. And also check all the grounds good.
 
   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Even though the battery has 12V it could be bad and not have CCA's . I would have the battery load tested. And also check all the grounds good.
Yeah, going to remove the grounds, clean and reattach tomorrow, although they are all tight. I also tried jump starting with cables from my golf cart, still nothing. Plus trying to start and watching battery voltage with meter, showed very little change. I guess that doesn't 100% mean the battery is good. Thanks for the help.
 
   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start #4  
Even though the battery has 12V it could be bad and not have CCA's . I would have the battery load tested. And also check all the grounds good.
A brand new perfectly good battery in excellent condition neither lacks nor requires CCA. It is not something a battery "has" in order to be good. CCA is cold cranking amps and is an expression of the energy capacity of the battery -- some number of amps current flow ability at a standard temperature and length of time. Bigger higher capacity batteries (all 12v) have a larger CCA. Anyway, the suggestion of getting the battery load tested is a good one and can't hurt to just verify "yes we have a good battery."
That out of the way, I do not know what the timer relay is or what it is for but anything that buzzes for 5 to 10 seconds after shutting off the key is some kind of electrical problem. The only thing I can think of that gets used just when you shut down is the fuel shutoff solenoid. Maybe it is faulty and buzzing a while when/after doing it's job?
Lights being dim, tach blinking, you have a connection problem somewhere. Watching battery voltage while trying to start and seeing little or no drop is not right either. It should drop at that time. Jump starting from another presumed-good battery does not work. All those things point to a bad connection somewhere between your battery terminals and the starter AND not just that but your instruments too. Something is loose or not making a good connection.
OBTW, an inconsistency in this picture is when you say "voltage at starter and alternator all show good voltage. " If that's true then why isn't the starter cranking the engine? A jammed or frozen starter ? These things cannot all be true at the same time with the voltage at the battery not dropping. Puzzle.
OBTW, an inconsistency
 
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   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start #5  
Even though the battery has 12V it could be bad and not have CCA's . I would have the battery load tested. And also check all the grounds good.

In the absence of having a battery load tester you can hold a volt meter on the battery while an assistant attempts to start the tractor. I like to do that and then repeat the test except holding the volt meter directly to the starter. If the battery holds good voltage but it drops a lot at the starter then you know you have a bad connection somewhere.
 
   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start #6  
In the absence of having a battery load tester you can hold a volt meter on the battery while an assistant attempts to start the tractor. I like to do that and then repeat the test except holding the volt meter directly to the starter. If the battery holds good voltage but it drops a lot at the starter then you know you have a bad connection somewhere.
The voltage drop (from open circuit voltage) at the battery terminals will always be the current times the internal resistance of the battery. When cranking (or connected to the starter such that it SHOULD be cranking) the current will be very high and when multiplied by the internal resistance of the battery should show a noticeable voltage drop. I do not know the numbers but that is how it works.
 
   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start #7  
The voltage drop (from open circuit voltage) at the battery terminals will always be the current times the internal resistance of the battery. When cranking (or connected to the starter such that it SHOULD be cranking) the current will be very high and when multiplied by the internal resistance of the battery should show a noticeable voltage drop. I do not know the numbers but that is how it works.

You’re making that way too complicated. All you need to do is hold the volt meter on the battery while a load is applied by the starter. It really should stay above 12 volts but you might get by with 11. If it drops below that it’s for sure bad. After you’ve done that test repeat it except hold the volt meter on the starter terminals. No conductor is 100 percent efficient but if it drops a lot and the battery held up then you know there’s a battery cable issue.
 
   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start #8  
I'll pile on the grounds and battery connections. It really sounds like one of those is your issue. Sounds like you are going to take apart and clean all grounds and I would say also do that at the battery and starter.

BUT... The fact that you jumped it and nothing does not quite add up, but could depend on how you jumped it, too. Taking the starter out for testing (or apply direct battery voltage to it) would give you a read on if that is the problem.
 
   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start #9  
Are the dim lights on the instrument panel the oil pressure switch light and the charging system light? It’s time to whittle down this oak tree. Is there a difference in brightness between turning on the Hazard flashers versus using a turn signal? They’re not on the same circuit (WSM). One is on the battery (RG hot) circuit and the other is on the fuel pump (RY) circuit.
 

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   / 2009 BX 2660 electrical issue - won't start
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Are the dim lights on the instrument panel the oil pressure switch light and the charging system light? It’s time to whittle down this oak tree. Is there a difference in brightness between turning on the Hazard flashers versus using a turn signal? They’re not on the same circuit (WSM). One is on the battery (RG hot) circuit and the other is on the fuel pump (RY) circuit.
Yes and Yes.... spent hours yesterday working through each circuit.
  1. Battery tested good. Took to Oreilly's (And I yes I did that volt meter on battery while attempting to start prior to taking to Oreilly's)
  2. Battery connections cleaned
  3. Ground connections cleaned (except at starter - but they looked good and not loose). Tested from positive of battery to several grounds on tractor - 12.7 volts
  4. Tested each circuit from switch through fuse - 6-7 volts
  5. Although ignition switch tested good, i.e resistance through the 4 connections depending on key position, when sticking meter probe into back of plug, (to see what the switch is passing). measuring 6-7 volts. One time I got 12 volts.
  6. We believe we have a short in the plug now, I'm guessing because I have attached and removed so many times. No reason that should have loosened over time, or at least find it hard to believe. So may have found the problem, or one of them anyways.
  7. Re: lights above - only light is oil pressure and battery. No hazard lights, although you can hear the relay (sometimes). Fuel pump comes on when the switch is on.
Will give another update after today's work.
 
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