2007 JD 2305 Driveshaft lubrication

[Wvanatti]

Well, I got my flush zerks today.... I just couldn’t resist-
I dropped the driveshaft down, took the zerk out to see if the flush would fit. It did, but was to long. I would have to drill out the center of the post to allow access, guessing it would have to be a special drill bit as the post the cap sits on looks to be case hardened. I don’t believe you can grind down the zerk to make shorter as i’m sure the spring that holds the ball in place would be damaged.
I don’t need this since my zerk clears, but thought I would write about it on here if anyone tried to attempt.

Hope this helps someone with their endeavors for this bad design that has to be mitigated by the owners.

 

[Ingerdeere]

Like Wvanetti I got my recessed zerks and no-go. I called Scott's number listed on the invoice and he came up with option: Plug for end cap and 14-28 X 1 5/8 extension to use when greasing. He sent me the stuff free of charge. EXCELLENT customer service experience with Zerksplus (thanks ruffdog). He also has an Ebay store : Zerksplus61. Hopefully the included links will work.

1/4-28 UNF Plug (SLOTTED) for Zerk Fitting 5 Pcs - ZerksPlus

1/4-28 x 1-5/8" Taper Straight Grease Zerk Fitting Minimum 3 pcs - ZerksPlus

1/4-28 x 11/16 (.687) Taper Straight Grease Zerk Fitting Minimum 6 pcs - ZerksPlus

1/4-28 x 1" Taper Straight Grease Zerk Fitting Minimum 4 pcs - ZerksPlus

Ultimately I ended up shortening the 1/4-28 slotted / hex cap plug by about 1/6th inch to avoid the end of the pin on trunion. Picture 1 NAPA zerk next to plug, Picture 2 is original vs. ground plug, Picture 3 is lower profile of the installed shortened plug on the forward u-joint.



I looked at putting a washer but figured the less weight the better.
When it's time for lubrication I'll remove the plug, install the extended zerk to get Locknlube attached, grease and replace the plug.
All of this was just to avoid grinding down the interfering frame support due to proud zerk on after market u joint end cap from NAPA. If I was working from the top, rather than from underneath, I might of gone with the frame support mod like Wvanetti or possibly even just put up money for the OEM u-joints with zerk in the center. I have more time than money right now. I'll later post a last picture of shaft, near frame support on tractor. Thanks again to all other previous posters for paving the way to a pretty do-able project for an average or less skilled DIYer.

 

[Wvanatti]

Glad you came up with a solution. If you ever decide to modify the frame, strongly suggest the band file from Harbor Freight $39. I only needed to grind the drivers side ( left ) a 1/8th inch. It cleared without the modification, but kept knocking the zerk out. Easy peasy.... thanks again for posting the info.

 

[Wvanatti]

 

[Ingerdeere]

Wrap this up for me. Installed the driveshaft with new NAPA u-joints. The picture I took was useless.

Before moving the driveshaft into place I replaced the circlip on the bench and opened it enough to start the larger pin about 3/4 into the yoke hole. Maneuvered this all into place from underneath with the pin pointing up. Centered the yoke pin hole with the forward splined shaft hole using the extended 1/32" punch. Rotated the installed shaft so the pin, splined shaft hole was now on the lower end to allow tapping the pin in. In hind sight I would have started the smaller pin just before the larger pin cleared the top of the circlip at the pin holes.
After install I did pull the end cap plug, greased with a needle type adapter also tried it with a 45 degree zerk temporarily installed, greased with LocknLube. Replace plug to end cap . Either works well for me.

Knowing what I know now... I'd line up quick access to Moog or NAPA 410, remove the drive shaft, remove, disassemble & inspect OEM u joints, confirm the cross zerk is working, lubricate, reassemble, reinstall or replace u joints. I'd go with an end cap plug to remove when greasing or keep original straight zerk & shave off the frame support.
After about 500 hours my never-before-greased OEM ujoints are now fine once I cleaned out trunion and zerk that had never been greased prior (LUCKY). Others may be able to get away with just a bit of time, grease and no out of pockets expenses ($50+ aftermarket or $200+ JD/Kubota). A final "Thanks" to those who went before...you made it easy.

 

[KestrelMerlin]

I have a 2010. 2305. You can drop the driveshaft from underneath. You have to move the snapping forward ( front end of drive shaft by flywheel) Drive out the two roll pins with a punch. Slide the whole shaft aft, lower the front , then pull the shaft off. Makes it simple to swivel the joints to get to the zerks. I did it every 50 hours till around 300 hours. Then I changed to the moog 410 joints that have the zerk on the end of the cap. No more removal.... but did take some adjustment to make them fit.
Any question, be glad to help. Bill.

What brand of Snap ring pliers did you use? I had another nameless set that would not work, so I bought the harbor freight set.

I've been working on getting the snap ring off for 2 hours. I can expand the ring - did it at least 50 times - but when I try to slide the ring forward to the engine, the snap ring pops off and back in the groove.

I got one end of the ring out of the groove and tried wedging with a flat blade screwdriver, but it pops back in.

I may have to cut the snap ring with a dremel tool and replace it.

Also, on removing the double roll pin - I've never worked with one. Do you have to punch out the smaller pin first? It looks like I would need a 1/32" punch to get that out?

 

[Wvanatti]

What brand of Snap ring pliers did you use? I had another nameless set that would not work, so I bought the harbor freight set.

I've been working on getting the snap ring off for 2 hours. I can expand the ring - did it at least 50 times - but when I try to slide the ring forward to the engine, the snap ring pops off and back in the groove.

I got one end of the ring out of the groove and tried wedging with a flat blade screwdriver, but it pops back in.

I may have to cut the snap ring with a dremel tool and replace it.

Also, on removing the double roll pin - I've never worked with one. Do you have to punch out the smaller pin first? It looks like I would need a 1/32" punch to get that out?

I used the harbor freight snap ring pliers. ( 90 degree tip )Worked fine. As for the double roll pin. I drive them both out at once. I did put a slight tapper on the end with bench grinder to help it start easier. Good luck getting ring off. Can’t imagine why it’s being hard.

 

[KestrelMerlin]

Update and Observations on a 2305: 1) With advice in these forums, a long set of snap ring pliers, the correct size punches and some penetrating oil, removing the driveshaft is about a 15 minute job (I'm retired from medical field Not and experienced jobber or mechanic) from underneath with the tractor on the ground (no ramps). 2) With the driveshaft down, u-joints opened up, LocknLube applied to zerks, pneumatic grease gun AND EXTENSIVE HEATING I could only get grease to exit from 4 of the 8 seals. I removed the JD "spider" ujoints using a large C clamp and appropriate sockets with some tapping as needed to preserve the cups and needle rollers. I have tried to attach a picture
View attachment 674708
1 cap that was getting grease (Left) and 1 that was not (Right with the "grease puck" plug in the center cap).
I am going to replace the "spider" with Napa 410 u joints when flush type grease fittings arrive purchased on E-bay. BUT for anybody not wanting to drop $100 on the JD spider or $50+ Moog or NAPA, and if you're just not confident about your greasing, it may be worth dropping the shaft, removing the existing spiders, inspect, declog the zerk, trunion, inspect the caps and pins, regrease and re-install.
Two of the 4 clogged pins had minor scoring really more like polished toward the inner seal but 2 appeared unaffected.
Each of the 4 end caps that were not getting new grease had a firm "puck" of grease clogging just the exit hole of the pin. The grease inside the cross/spider was good. After removing the zerk and cleaning the inside of the cross/spider and pin exit holes and reassembling the OEM assemblies appear reuseable. I'm keeping them as spares.
My 2305 only has 500 hours so machines worked harder may not be the same
In my opinion there are probably some 2305's out there that if the driveshafts are dropped, carefully disassembled, cleaned, inspected and regreased the OEM spiders might be salvageable. I think mine are.
I already have the Napas and I just want to see if I can avoid having to file the frame support that Wvanatti talks about so I'm not going to reinstall the shaft until the flush type grease fittings ruffdog put me onto arrive.
For what it's worth... on the OEM spider, removed from the shaft, I had to crank on the zerk to remove it and I played around with installing a 90 degree. IMHO changing from a 45 to 90 degree does not change access to a grease gun nozzle but Might make access with needle tip type easier.
Thanks to Pruav and some others for a great how-to description.

I used the harbor freight snap ring pliers. ( 90 degree tip )Worked fine. As for the double roll pin. I drive them both out at once. I did put a slight tapper on the end with bench grinder to help it start easier. Good luck getting ring off. Can’t imagine why it’s being hard.

Thanks for letting me know. I've been using the 90 degree tip, too.
I looked at the channellock snap ring pliers and thought they might not fit in the narrow space so I didn't buy them.
Looks like I will be cutting it off.
Thanks for the tip on the roll pin!

 

[Wvanatti]

Best of luck. Just remember when putting the new spiders on, if the caps don’t go all the way in to get c-clips to lock in groove, may have to grind a smidge off in all 4 post ( I had to remove 1/6th inch). I absolutely love the zerks on the cap. Mine are greased often now and still tight. Few hundred hours on them. Probably shouldn’t say there good out loud