Cw021382
New member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2019
- Messages
- 23
- Tractor
- Kubota L35, JD 1120, JD 7200, JD 310, JD 410, NH TT75A
Hi everyone, I just picked this neat little tractor up. It’s a 4410 gear trans with electric shuttle. Also has the factory mid scv diverter to run top and tilt with the loader joystick, and a dedicated third function lever. Here’s a couple pics.


I have it somewhat disassembled as I washed it, and am now working on this issue. The issue started when the rear pto was engaged to see it worked, and then disengaged. When disengaged it killed the tractor, and it would not restart. I bought it and brought it home. It killed the tractor because the fuel solenoid is not getting power now. I removed the solenoid and the tractor starts and runs fine. I bench tested the solenoid and it pulls in and holds as it should. I tested all fuses, and they are all good. I also tested the seat switch, clutch switch, and neutral switch, and all work. I switched diode blocks and no difference. I then tested all relays. Here is the schematic.


Only K1 was bad, but it is just the manifold heater and should not matter (I think). I then removed the fuse box and tested for continuity with the solenoid plug. Red goes to 87 on K4, white goes to 30 on K3, and black goes to ground as shown on the schematic. All had continuity with the plug so no broken wires. on K4 30 is indeed hot always, 86 is hot when key is on, and 85 is a good ground. I can feel K3 click when the key is turned on. The only way I can get the solenoid to pull in is jump from 30 to 87 on K4. I don’t understand why The K4 relay doesn’t work? If I’m reading the schematic right 87 on K6 feeds power to 86 on K4 when the key is turned on, and I do get power to 86 on K4 when key is on.
On K4 how can I be getting power to 86 and ground to 85 (with a good solenoid) and not get power to the fuel solenoid? What am I missing? I hope an electrical guru can help. I’m not a mechanic exactly, but I’m usually pretty good with this stuff. I figure my problem is a bad K6 solenoid timer. Can I test it, and if so how? Thanks. -Chris


I have it somewhat disassembled as I washed it, and am now working on this issue. The issue started when the rear pto was engaged to see it worked, and then disengaged. When disengaged it killed the tractor, and it would not restart. I bought it and brought it home. It killed the tractor because the fuel solenoid is not getting power now. I removed the solenoid and the tractor starts and runs fine. I bench tested the solenoid and it pulls in and holds as it should. I tested all fuses, and they are all good. I also tested the seat switch, clutch switch, and neutral switch, and all work. I switched diode blocks and no difference. I then tested all relays. Here is the schematic.


Only K1 was bad, but it is just the manifold heater and should not matter (I think). I then removed the fuse box and tested for continuity with the solenoid plug. Red goes to 87 on K4, white goes to 30 on K3, and black goes to ground as shown on the schematic. All had continuity with the plug so no broken wires. on K4 30 is indeed hot always, 86 is hot when key is on, and 85 is a good ground. I can feel K3 click when the key is turned on. The only way I can get the solenoid to pull in is jump from 30 to 87 on K4. I don’t understand why The K4 relay doesn’t work? If I’m reading the schematic right 87 on K6 feeds power to 86 on K4 when the key is turned on, and I do get power to 86 on K4 when key is on.
On K4 how can I be getting power to 86 and ground to 85 (with a good solenoid) and not get power to the fuel solenoid? What am I missing? I hope an electrical guru can help. I’m not a mechanic exactly, but I’m usually pretty good with this stuff. I figure my problem is a bad K6 solenoid timer. Can I test it, and if so how? Thanks. -Chris