2005 GX255 - Mower Height and other Qs (54C deck)

[smp22]

Hi All. I scored a deal on a 2005 GX255 this past weekend and have been figuring it out the past couple of days. I searched this sub-forum (John Deere Lawn & Garden) for this model number and only came up with four results so it doesn't seem a common model. This model was only sold in 2004 and 2005, mine is a 2005. It has a K71 trans with a locking diff, foot operated implement raising/lowering, power steering (which I'm super happy about), and the Kawasaki FH601V. 488 hours.

I got the 54C mowing deck with it along with the 44" snowblower. I will likely be selling the blower to recoup costs and because I have a 54" rear mount PTO driven blower on my Kubota B-series. I got this one to cut grass and to go places where the larger Kubuta can't.

The deck seems _way too low_. At the max adjustment of 3.5" I am scalping all sorts of grass, totally unworkable. I'll be removing the deck to give it a once over, check the blades and just to get to know it - and to change the trans fluid. What are some common deck installation mistakes people make that could cause this? One thing that seems odd to me coming from a larger tractor with hydraulic lift MMM - raising and lowering the deck to the transport position really makes very little difference. The anti scalp rollers are basically always touching the ground, there is no situation where they can be extended more than 3 or 4 holes. The tension spring is set correctly for the 54" deck. Any pointers or advice are appreciated. The online JD manual is ok but real world tips from those who've been there are appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

 

[beenthere]

Have you measured the distance above flat surface area that your blades are set with respect to the height dial ?

Have you "leveled" the deck according to the procedure, i.e. correct tire pressure, side to side adjustment, front to back adjustment, per the height dial indicator? Procedure usually is to set the dial at 2.5" and measure blade tips to the flat surface also at 2.5".

Set at max on the dial of 3.5", then the blades should also be 3.5" above the flat surface.

When the deck is adjusted, and for whatever setting on the dial selected, the deck wheels should be 1/4 - 1/2" above the flat surface.

Can you fill us in on how this fits with what you are finding?

 

[Runner]

This may be stating the obvious, but have you checked the actual height of cut, compared to the setting shown on the adjustment handle? Not familiar with your specific unit, but the adjusting nuts can back off. It might just need to be reset.

Also, on some decks, you can adjust the front of the deck to ride lower or higher, depending on how heavy the grass is you are cutting, so adjusting the front higher might give you a little more cutting height overall.

One final thought, you can probably run the mower with it set all the way up, i.e., in the travel position. That is where I run both my JD mowers because they don't go high enough for my preference otherwise.

Mine only go to 4.25", but I think I get an extra .25" by running them in the full up position.

 

[tomplum]

In the end you can raise the adjusters on the rear arms to the point that you have a 1/4" between the frame and the bracketry. Once you are level and high in the back, reset your pitch. You can try being 1/4 or 3/8" lower in the front. Recheck the side to side level and see what you have. If your deck locks, and unlocks you should be good. You really don't want to run this thing on the rollers. Nice find BTW.

 

[dadohead]

All great comments.... dead on. Something is wrong if you're not seeing the deck raise much. It should get to 4.25" at lockup. I use the JD deck level gage to level the deck... makes it easy.

John Deere AM130907 Deck Level Gauge 345 42 E130 E120 E170 D105 TY15272 https://a.co/d/ij89XYf

Set the gage wheels a finger thickness above the ground at your preferred cut height.

The k71 is pretty bulletproof. One service you may want to add when changing the hydraulic oil (every 200 hrs) is on its' input sheave. The factory greases the splines at assembly. If neglected, 'fretting' will occur. By 400 hrs the tell tale red oxides will be present abrading the splines. The softer sheave splines will often strip out by 450 hrs. Remove the oxides and re-grease... it will run forever.

 

[beenthere]

Maybe member smp22 will return with some update if any of these comments have helped.

 

[smp22]

Hi again! The comments are very helpful, thank you everyone. The old garden tractor is a weekend thing so I haven't been able to get the deck off and do anything more on that. I have however replaced the plugs and done some cleaning (after we get our three small kids to bed in the evenings). I've changed the oil and the air filter.

My main concern at this point is the steering, it is very loose. As in, no way to maintain a straight line. I removed the front wheels to check the bearings and while they are not in great condition, they really don't have all that much play in them. The spindles are in good shape. The steering linkage seems to have a lot of play and wondering where to start on figuring that out.

Rate my old plugs:

 

[tomplum]

The plugs look like they've been there a while. Appears to be burning well. This style steering is pretty stout, a good inspection is in order. Set your tire pressure. I'd look for looseness in the center of the axle or signs of trauma. The drag link ends could be loose but the center link is fixed so if there is a toe issue, there is likely damage.

 

[beenthere]

smp22
Identify where the steering is loose. Maybe it is in the power steering control valve, or the gear connection to the quadrant attached to the drag links. Something should show up very loose.

As to the deck adjustments, they are done with the deck mounted on the tractor.

Let us know what you find, thanks.

 

[dadohead]

Hi smp22,
Your GX uses an Achermann style steering system. LH/RH spindle coordination is controlled by a straight tie rod. The system is turned by a frame mounted cylinder pushing the steering arm forward/rearward (#23).

So just normal steering imparts the same fwd/rev force into the axle pivot. The axle has outrigger pads on the front side that rub against the frame saddle supporting this action. From your description, the axle pivot has become worn/sloppy allowing front/back twisting movement. As the axle 'floats' it is not responsive to your steering inputs. Result: you can't keep it steering straight!

Test: with the tractor running and park brake ON. Have someone turn the steering wheel left then right. Observe the front axle on the left side of the machine. Do you see the axle move forward/backward much before seeing the front wheels turn? If so, this is the problem.

As mentioned above, the steering is pretty robust and this usually doesn't happen on low hour machines like yours. There is one circumstance that causes it though: a bent axle. It can happen when the steering is at full lock (when it is most vulnerable) and the front wheel strikes something hard. The axle is nodular iron; it can be bent! If this happens, the support pad (on either side of the machine) is bent away from the frame saddle... it now has no outrigger support and wear is accelerated. Inspect both axle support pads and see if it is contacting the frame saddle. If there is a gap, the axle is bent back. Report back and we can offer direction to get you going. Lots to digest here... sorry.