I am anxiously awaiting the delivery of my new (to me) 2005 Deere 2210. Delivery guy #1 that I hired pulled a no-show, so the 400 mile round trip did not happen today (or I would be out just riding around in my yard). I have hired delivery guy #2, and he promises me Friday afternoon.. So, here I sit, reading everything I can get my hands on about SCUTs and specifically the 2210, and it's successor, the 2305. My question is this......were there things with the 2210 (1st yr production 2003) that were changed/improved over it's 4 yr lifetime, and that evolved into the 2305. Mostly, I am looking for an answer to see if there were things in the early models ('03 and '04) that were changed/improved by the time 2005 rolled around.
2005 Deere 2210 question
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Labrat
Gold Member
They leaked where the 3 point top link connected to the transaxle housing so they upgraded the mounting plate. rear pto is susceptible to failure if stressed by either using a pto shaft that is to long or excessive load from tilling or mowing when there is an impact. Many threads on this failure.
I would grease the U joints on the pto shaft from the engine to the transaxle. several ways to do it but I prefer to remove the lower dash, floor board, ROPS and rear fender to get to them but some guys go from under the tractor with a needle fitting. My nephew has a 2305 and I see they are more accessible from under the tractor.
I would grease the U joints on the pto shaft from the engine to the transaxle. several ways to do it but I prefer to remove the lower dash, floor board, ROPS and rear fender to get to them but some guys go from under the tractor with a needle fitting. My nephew has a 2305 and I see they are more accessible from under the tractor.
ovrszd
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I have an '05 JD2210. I've put 400 hours on it. No major issues. I loaded the rear tires with Anti-freeze. I use it for mowing with a 62" deck, snow pushing with a 54" hydraulic front blade, box scraper work with a 5' scraper and 3pt tote box work mostly hauling firewood into the shop.
There's a couple things I don't like about the tractor. No tilt wheel. Lousy seat suspension. Otherwise it's a great little tractor.
The biggest issue with these tractors is the power shaft mentioned by Labrat. There's a lengthy thread about different ways to grease this shaft. I'm kinda lazy,,, which sometimes leads to innovation which is usually positive. In this case I believe my laziness paid off. Here's a link to the thread. Starting with my fix. Make sure to read the entire thread for other ideas.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...9-jd2210-upper-driveshaft-service-grease.html
There's a couple things I don't like about the tractor. No tilt wheel. Lousy seat suspension. Otherwise it's a great little tractor.
The biggest issue with these tractors is the power shaft mentioned by Labrat. There's a lengthy thread about different ways to grease this shaft. I'm kinda lazy,,, which sometimes leads to innovation which is usually positive. In this case I believe my laziness paid off. Here's a link to the thread. Starting with my fix. Make sure to read the entire thread for other ideas.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...9-jd2210-upper-driveshaft-service-grease.html
ovrszd
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They are a very capable tractor for their physical size. A lot of that comes from their heavy weight for their physical size. I believe the bare tractor is around 1400 lbs.
Here's a few more pics of mine at work. This will give you something to look at while you wait!!!
Here's a few more pics of mine at work. This will give you something to look at while you wait!!!
steveschlutt
Member
I have an 03 or 04, and have had precious few problems. Very capable machine, the few horror stories you read on TBN are a rarity for this tractor. I have 620 hours, and it is still a tight little dog that wants to work. Couple obvious things to read up on, things you MUST do with respect to maintenance to avoid some of the stories you've read about--
1. Know where your HST fan is, and make sure it's whole, not broken. Way up underneath, right in the driveline in front of the transmission. It's white plastic, you can't miss it. Recommend you remove the inadequate factory guard, and weld on a little extension to protect this fan from being destroyed by a stick. One stick poking in just the wrong place will destroy this fan, but you can prevernt that with a small guard extension. Meanwhile, don't run over sticks that are pointing up unless your deck is on. (If your fan is broken, it's priority that you read up on this, several methods of replacing this part.)
2. In that same driveline, locate the F & R U-Joints. This is on the main drive shaft from enge to HST. One Ujoint right in back of engine, really ahrd to get to... and one Ujoint close to Transmission HST, also hard to get to. You'll struggle to find this shaft, it is hidden pretty well. Grease the Ujoints once or twice a year. They will be a ***** to get to. I cut a hole in my floorboards (to match the size of the Deere plug) so it's easier to do. Easier with a long grease needle, read some other posts on here and you'll find all info needed. NOT greasing them will eventually cause a major epic failure of these Ujoints and be a time-consuming repalcement job. Or paying someone at Deere a pile of money to replace them.
3. read all you can on these and other problems. Knowledge is power, knowledge can save you hours of needless problems.
Good luck and enjoy your machine.
1. Know where your HST fan is, and make sure it's whole, not broken. Way up underneath, right in the driveline in front of the transmission. It's white plastic, you can't miss it. Recommend you remove the inadequate factory guard, and weld on a little extension to protect this fan from being destroyed by a stick. One stick poking in just the wrong place will destroy this fan, but you can prevernt that with a small guard extension. Meanwhile, don't run over sticks that are pointing up unless your deck is on. (If your fan is broken, it's priority that you read up on this, several methods of replacing this part.)
2. In that same driveline, locate the F & R U-Joints. This is on the main drive shaft from enge to HST. One Ujoint right in back of engine, really ahrd to get to... and one Ujoint close to Transmission HST, also hard to get to. You'll struggle to find this shaft, it is hidden pretty well. Grease the Ujoints once or twice a year. They will be a ***** to get to. I cut a hole in my floorboards (to match the size of the Deere plug) so it's easier to do. Easier with a long grease needle, read some other posts on here and you'll find all info needed. NOT greasing them will eventually cause a major epic failure of these Ujoints and be a time-consuming repalcement job. Or paying someone at Deere a pile of money to replace them.
3. read all you can on these and other problems. Knowledge is power, knowledge can save you hours of needless problems.
Good luck and enjoy your machine.
I've been reading all week long about the grease fitting difficulty. I've spoken with the seller's Deere dealer and they tell me they did the greasing of both joints at the 250 hr service. I spoke w my local Deere dealer and he told me that they were aware of the issue. I will be crawling around some over the next few days I'm sure, just looking around, up, and under the tractor. Never had a machine of this size. I probably don't even need it, but I'm sure I will find plenty of good uses.......cleaning up the woods, dragging old stuff, etc. It is arriving with a FEL, MMM, 14 bushel bagger, Deere ballast box, generic tow behind aerator, and also a DRPower pro driven power chipper. I have tons of trees, and I'm thinking the chipper will come in handy. All for $7k. I feel sure I can get my money out of it if I decide to sell.
I also have 60 ac up on the top of the Blue Ridge Mtns. In Nelson County VA. My driveway is about 3,000 ft or so, back in the woods. If I decide to buy a trailer for hauling the 200 miles, I'm thinking my 1st additional purchase will be a 4 or maybe 5 foot box blade, followed closely by a 4 foot bush hog.
Thanks for all your advice. Keep it coming.
I also have 60 ac up on the top of the Blue Ridge Mtns. In Nelson County VA. My driveway is about 3,000 ft or so, back in the woods. If I decide to buy a trailer for hauling the 200 miles, I'm thinking my 1st additional purchase will be a 4 or maybe 5 foot box blade, followed closely by a 4 foot bush hog.
Thanks for all your advice. Keep it coming.
ovrszd
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I don't recall you mentioning how many hours are on your machine, but it sounds like you bought it cheap enough. Just a tractor and MMM deck under 1000 hrs will bring $7K here.
I would recommend removing the loader and only putting it on when needed. No use in carrying it around while doing mower duties.
I removed my ROPS so I could mow under yard trees. I never operate mine in any rollover situations so am not concerned about it. With that said, as mentioned before, the tractor weighs somewhere around 1400 lbs by itself. If you roll it over and it lands on you, you aren't going to push it off.
You'll find lots of uses for your tractor and equipment. Pretty amazing what these tractors can do for their size. Post pictures when you get it. We love pictures!!! :thumbsup:
I would recommend removing the loader and only putting it on when needed. No use in carrying it around while doing mower duties.
I removed my ROPS so I could mow under yard trees. I never operate mine in any rollover situations so am not concerned about it. With that said, as mentioned before, the tractor weighs somewhere around 1400 lbs by itself. If you roll it over and it lands on you, you aren't going to push it off.
You'll find lots of uses for your tractor and equipment. Pretty amazing what these tractors can do for their size. Post pictures when you get it. We love pictures!!! :thumbsup:
