2004 jinma model 2804 with y385 engine

[steve954rr]

Hi, I'm new to this tractor repair stuff but this tractor was given to me with a rod knock caused when the rear crankcase/flywheel cover loosed up and the oil drained out and the previous owner wasn't smart enuff to turn it off. Anyway I ordered a new short block from circle g tractors (would not recommend doing that again) the shortblock came bolted on a pallet no plastic no covering whatsoever wide open to dirt and whatever else I called to complain and was told that's how we always do it......dumbass that's all I can say, is a garbage bag or sum shrink wrap that expensive? I paid 2000 bucks for a shortblock and you geniuses can't send it in a sealed container?? and sent the head gasket folded in half....really? that should help it seal....I was also informed there was no warranty of any kind......how do you retards stay in business?? so after cleaning the engine I put it all back together and got it started but not running very well so I took it to gulf coast tractors asked them to set the timing and check over everything it had been sitting outside a couple years and it was my first tractor repair....so three weeks and 500 bucks later after many calls I got my tractor back they had it running no better than I did, front axle dry of fluid rear axle full half water half fluid transmission way low very very hard to start and lacking power barely drove onto the trailer in lo-range no fuel filter and the clutch safety switch with a jumper wire not because it was bad because they forgot to plug it back in.....nice job fellas, so after trial and error timing on my part I got it starting pretty good and running decent not great still but pretty good I changed all the oils and filters everything was lookin good but after 10-15 mins of playing around grading my driveway I notice a oil trail...looks like it comes from the crankcase blo-by type filter that bolts on side of block.....any idea why? or better yet can you recommend a tractor repair place in central florida that will fix the thing and wont rip me off like the last 2 places

 

[RonMar]

That is a prime reason why I learned to do my own wrenching. It is hard to find a good service tech sometimes.

Blowby out that breather on the case is normal, oil is not. has the oil level increased? IF the hydraulic pump shaft seal went, it could be dumping hydraulic oil into the crankcase raising the level to the point it is forced out the breather. This is a new engine right? Did you do anything to break it in. Diesels really need a good high load at full operating temp breakin to seat the rings properly. Ideally this would be accomplished with an attached PTO generator or dyno so a steady controlled load can be applied. If the rings are not seated properly this would contribute to excessive blowby untill they eventiually seal properly... IF you still have he original engine, you could probably get bearings and rods/crank form Affordable and give it an overhaul...

Good Luck.

 

[steve954rr]

ok so it wasn't smoking at all to begin with or at least not noticeably and the oil level hasn't dropped any even tho I know it wasn't overfull and it dumped at least a quart out so its possible the seal went maybe cuz I cleaned the screen and changed the oil it got more pressure than before who knows it definetly has lots of blo-by I'm wondering if adjusting the rockers had anything to do with it? I adjusted them like you would a gas engine just to the point they didn't rattle because they were all loose I never adjusted them when I put it together figured the lifters had to pump up first although I have no idea if it has hydrolic lifters or lifters at all honestly I never worked on diesel motor before so whats the correct way? if hydrolic oil got in the engine oil how would I know? I suppose since its thinner it would cause more blo-by .....this thing has got me frusterated for sure I wish I could just take it to somebody or at least could get a shop manual

 

[RonMar]

Well if hydraulic ol is making it into the case, the oil level on the dipstick increases rather than decreases.

The valves are adjusted using a feeler gauge and setting the gap between rocker arm and valve stem to a specified gap, with the crank/cam rotated to the proper timing position of course. The gap is to allow for thermal expansion as the parts warm up.