2001 NH TC35 starting problem

[Keebler]

A quick way to visually see if the fuse is blown is if the PTO indicator light is lit up on the dash even though it's fully disengaged. When the breaker trips, the PTO light comes on and it goes off after the breaker resets.

Although I did it myself, I would not recommend bypassing the safety switches. At some point, I'll probably fix mine correctly but for now, I had work to do and needed a quick fix.

I don't see that i have a PTO indicator light. I turned on the PTO and didn't see any areas light up. I didn't see a spot on the dash for one.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

I don't think that you do. I just looked at old pics of my dash. No PTO light.

 

[STx]

There's one on my TC40, down in the bottom right. Looks like a gear with an arrow going around it.

Check your owner's manual, it'll be in there if you have one.

 

[felixedo]

I don't mean to jump Keebler's thread, but I have a similar problem with my TC35D. My apologies if this throws off your issue, but hopefully the discussion helps us both. If this should be a separate thread, feel free to send me on my way. My situation is as follows: Initial turning of the key to the run position, activates the glow plugs, accessories, etc. Turning to "START" everything goes dead. Sometimes a faint buzzing sound in the relays. I cannot duplicate the initial pre-start response after the first try. I replaced the key switch, only to get the same result. Clearly blowing the start side of the key switch.

My questions to the group are:
1) This could be a Neutral Start Relay problem, How do I test it?
2) This could be a starter problem. I don't think the poles I need to jump are exposed on the starter. Is there a good way to jump this starter on the machine, or do I need to remove it? If I remove it, will the results be accurate?
3) Correct me if I'm wrong, but beyond that, I think there are only 3 wires that could be causing the problem: The ignition wire, both before and after the Neutral Relay, the Run wire, and the Main Battery wire(least likely since appears to work in "RUN" position).

Also, the factory switch is a 4 Pole, 3 Position switch. The wiring diagram shows the Acc and Ign wires connected directly together. Do you see an issue using a cheaper, generic key switch and terminating these wires on the same post on the switch?

Thanks in advance.

 

[STx]

felixedo, your issue sounds like the one described in the thread linked on post 3 on this thread. The safety circuit has problems over time and will not send enough current to the starter solenoid, it'll sometimes click, sometimes blow the fuse or trip the breaker if you have it.

You can cut the little green wire going to the starter and apply 12V to it to jump the starter solenoid but I think you should look at what was mentioned in the thread linked on post 3.

 

[felixedo]

Thanks, STx. I wasn't sure about how much that link applied since it's a class II vs class III machine. Just to be sure we are on the same page, you mean the White wire on the starter (?) No green wire.

 

[STx]

It'll be a smaller wire, about 14ga or 16ga.

The other thread should apply. My factory service manual covers TC35, TC40 and TC45 so they should be pretty much the same.

 

[Keebler]

I changed the seat safety switch and the pro switch with no positive results. I'm still stuck and thinking a simple switch for ignition could save me lots of headaches and $ bringing it to a dealer. I might try to get the motivation to open it up and look at each individual wire for a break or decay. It might be the needle in the hay stack routine

 

[STx]

You can narrow down your search area considerably with a volt/ohm meter. Measure resistance from the starter to the first safety switch in line, if it's low (like 20 or less), move on to the next switch. This will isolate which part of the wire you're having trouble with instead of throwing lots of parts at it with no results.