1st tractor
- Thread starter beuthinc
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oosik
Epic Contributor
Welcome to TBN. The things that may become a problem on your new tractor are not going to be seen when you are admiring the brand new beast. The dealer will have a pre-delivery check list that ensures all important items have been checked. Any problems should show themselves in the first 50-100 hours of use. If you purchased any accessory implements - be sure they are included with the delivery to your house. If this is your first tractor - see if you can obtain a copy of the owners manual so you can read up on the operation of the new tractor before it arrives. Otherwise - start easy with the new tractor - its a learning process. Enjoy.
Gale Hawkins
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2009
- Messages
- 8,268
- Location
- Murray, KY
- Tractor
- 1948 Allis Chambers Model B 1976 265 MF / 1983 JD 310B Backhoe / 1966 Ford 3000 Diesel / 1980 3600 Diesel
Welcome. Sounds like a nice tractor.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
A couple of things I would check just in case the dealer forgot, or messed up or whatever. Check torque on all wheel nut/bolts and all loader mounting bolts. Hopefully they will be marked with a pen from you dealer and he torqued them all correctly, and they will loosen up as you use the tractor for about the first 100 hours, and need to be retorqued, but make sure they are torqued to start with. Also make sure all the joints on the loader are greased. Believe it or not I had a new Kubota delivered that several of the zerks were missed. It would not hurt to check engine oil level, hydraulic fluid level and front axle fluid level. Might as well see that the coolant overflow bottle has some coolant in it too!
Apparently the reason the wheel and loader nuts all loosen up over time is the paint wears in and they become looser.
Apparently the reason the wheel and loader nuts all loosen up over time is the paint wears in and they become looser.
deerseeker001
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2011
- Messages
- 5,699
- Location
- Central wisconsin
- Tractor
- International 2500a with Loader
Welcome from Wisconsin
skyhook
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,906
- Location
- Canada Ontario
- Tractor
- 1996 Kubota L4200 GSTC,(sold) 1994 JCB 210S 4x4x4
Start it up, take a walk around it, make sure everything looks nice and straight,,
check the "hour" meter, thats a nice machine you purchased.:thumbsup:
check the "hour" meter, thats a nice machine you purchased.:thumbsup:
Sysop
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2013
- Messages
- 3,301
- Location
- Fairmont, WV
- Tractor
- Mahindra 4035HST purchased 2013 - Husqvarna TS348-D purchased 2019 - Craftsman 42" HST purchased 2003
Welcome and congrats on a fine machine. There are a couple minor known issues with the 4035, but nothing that can be done till it is ran some and the problems actually show up. Common things are minor hydraulic leaks, one of the fuel lines near the firewall is prone to springing a leak and needing replaced (I'm dealing with that one now), and the occasional wire rubbing someplace funny and creating an electrical issue. As has been stated, go over everything and ensure it's been properly tightened and lubed. You need to be used to doing that anyway because it is recommended to be done quite often on all equipment. It is tempting to just hop on and start tackling tasks, but it's better to go through the maintenance checklists in the manual and familiarize yourself with all of those processes and be sure you have the fine new unit you paid for. Anything can be overlooked by anyone at any time. It is best to doublecheck everything yourself.
*edit* I did think of one other recommendation not yet specifically mentioned (which is in the manual if you read it before hopping on): Tire pressure... When the tractors are being shipped, many times the tires are overinflated so they can be strapped down more firmly and don't move around as much on bumps. Ensure your tires are at the proper pressures (I think about 20psi is max you want to use and 40PSI is what they put in them for shipping). Running too high of tire pressures allows any simple rock or stick to pierce the tire where at a lower pressure the tire can bend around the object.
Took me a few, but I found-again, an article I'd once read on AG tire inflation that might help.
Maximize Tractive Performance of Radial Rear Tractor Tires with Proper Inflation | Firestone Agricultural Tire
*edit* I did think of one other recommendation not yet specifically mentioned (which is in the manual if you read it before hopping on): Tire pressure... When the tractors are being shipped, many times the tires are overinflated so they can be strapped down more firmly and don't move around as much on bumps. Ensure your tires are at the proper pressures (I think about 20psi is max you want to use and 40PSI is what they put in them for shipping). Running too high of tire pressures allows any simple rock or stick to pierce the tire where at a lower pressure the tire can bend around the object.
Took me a few, but I found-again, an article I'd once read on AG tire inflation that might help.
Maximize Tractive Performance of Radial Rear Tractor Tires with Proper Inflation | Firestone Agricultural Tire
I have a Max25. I forgot to put the pin to stop the turnbuckles from turning on the 3PH. I lost one of the turnbuckles in the grass when mowing never to be seen again. To replace it cost $45. So I would suggest any part that is "small" or could come lose that you paint it fluorescent orange, yellow or other bright color.
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
assumption backhoe is easily removed for access to the 3pt hitch, double check you get the arms, chains, bars. that might need to be removed / changed out while backhoe is on. vs with it off.
TLB's have a ton of "grease zerks" hit everything once, then go right back over it, making sure you hit them all, then one more time after that.
FEL (front end loader) ever point that piviots (bucket, to arms to cylinders) should have a grease zerk
front joints / power stearing cylinders might have grease zerks, underneath drive shafts might have grease zerks,
the backhoe will most likely need to be fully extended out to access some grease zerks on both sides of it. then contracted to reach other grease zerk spots. there will be spots from the bucket, all the way back to the swing cylinders that may be a tad hard to get into were all the hoses go back into.
the out riggers as well (legs that fold out on the sides beside the backhoe) will need to be hit.
grease gun and hitting everything can get messy, so have a roll of paper towels with ya, till ya get use to hitting everything. and working the grease gun. "hint" twist the tip that goes over the grease zerks on the tractor left or right, if you are not able to get a good connection or if the tip will not come off the grease zerks. having some lava soap or like to clean hands helps with removing grease from your hands.
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double check the hyd oil level, after running all the hydrualic stuff (FEL, backhoe) not all the air may have been removed during initial install and bringing the unit to you. so after every hour or so double check your fluid levels. then check them every time before ya hop on tractor till things stop lowering down on ya.
TLB's have a ton of "grease zerks" hit everything once, then go right back over it, making sure you hit them all, then one more time after that.
FEL (front end loader) ever point that piviots (bucket, to arms to cylinders) should have a grease zerk
front joints / power stearing cylinders might have grease zerks, underneath drive shafts might have grease zerks,
the backhoe will most likely need to be fully extended out to access some grease zerks on both sides of it. then contracted to reach other grease zerk spots. there will be spots from the bucket, all the way back to the swing cylinders that may be a tad hard to get into were all the hoses go back into.
the out riggers as well (legs that fold out on the sides beside the backhoe) will need to be hit.
grease gun and hitting everything can get messy, so have a roll of paper towels with ya, till ya get use to hitting everything. and working the grease gun. "hint" twist the tip that goes over the grease zerks on the tractor left or right, if you are not able to get a good connection or if the tip will not come off the grease zerks. having some lava soap or like to clean hands helps with removing grease from your hands.
============
double check the hyd oil level, after running all the hydrualic stuff (FEL, backhoe) not all the air may have been removed during initial install and bringing the unit to you. so after every hour or so double check your fluid levels. then check them every time before ya hop on tractor till things stop lowering down on ya.
