1980s International 254 Resurrection

[RossCountyRam]

I enjoyed documenting this project, and thanks for looking. Here are a few final pics.

 

[fidowanttobe]

NICE!! Pretty neat unit for 40-ish years old too. Won't be long and you will wonder how you ever got by without it. Stop back occasionally and keep us updated.

 

[RossCountyRam]

NICE!! Pretty neat unit for 40-ish years old too. Won't be long and you will wonder how you ever got by without it. Stop back occasionally and keep us updated.

Thanks, and will do because it is a constant project.

Right now battling a low oil pressure light that comes on after its warmed up. To me that is an oil weight problem. Currently running Traveller SAE 5W-30 but going to switch to SAE-10W and see if that curbs the problem.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Thanks, and will do because it is a constant project.

Right now battling a low oil pressure light that comes on after its warmed up. To me that is an oil weight problem. Currently running Traveller SAE 5W-30 but going to switch to SAE-10W and see if that curbs the problem.

I would put a mechanical pressure gauge into hole where the switch is and get a good idea of what your actual pressures are as you use it. I usually use a grease gun hose so I can attach the gauge somewhere where I can keep an eye on it. Most oil pressure switches only come on around the 8-10 psi or lower. We were told in school that a good ball park figure to use was 10 psi/1000 rpm. I like to see a little more than that but now you have an idea what to look for.

 

[RossCountyRam]

I would put a mechanical pressure gauge into hole where the switch is and get a good idea of what your actual pressures are as you use it. I usually use a grease gun hose so I can attach the gauge somewhere where I can keep an eye on it. Most oil pressure switches only come on around the 8-10 psi or lower. We were told in school that a good ball park figure to use was 10 psi/1000 rpm. I like to see a little more than that but now you have an idea what to look for.

That is a good idea. I will pull the switch and try and make something up. Will definitely post results. I appreciate all your insight.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I have even gone so far as to buy a brass tee and install a permanent oil psi gauge. Still keep the light but now you have a gauge too.

 

[RossCountyRam]

The switch will be a metric thread so I will just have to find an a piece to adapt to a mechanical gauge assuming I can find one.

The engine sounds good. Of course there could be an internal bearing problem but I kind of doubt it. Would be interesting to see if there are pressure differences with different oils.

 

[RossCountyRam]

I picked up a pressure test kit. But going over things, my initial thought does not make sense. The only difference between 5W-30 and SAE-30 is its cold properties. When the oil reaches temp they are both 30. That is when this light is coming on so I would need a heavier weight oil at temp to increase pressure?

 

[fidowanttobe]

I run 15/40 diesel oil year round, plug it in in the winter, and I have no fluctuating oil pressure issues in the summer or anytime. I too put a mechanical gauge on because of electric sender problems. Simpler and peace of mind. Don't know what your book says but mine is a Chinese Perkins knockoff and no matter what I put in, its better than what they put in over there. Cenex 15/40 has treated us good in all our farm diesels.

 

[RossCountyRam]

I ran a gauge on it today. It ran great, held low 70s in high rpms and down to above 40 lower down in the range! Tapped in where switch goes. Worked it for an hour or so. So I guess that means the switch is bad. Or can I test that somehow too? Although if that tests good then it means there is a funkier problem and I do not need that.

Edit- this forum needs Tapatalk to enable posting pics and videos on the run for iOS.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Here's what I would do to test the switch. I would set it up with a tee and a pressure gauge and the switch. Wire up the switch to a light and then blow in the tee with the air blower on your air compressor. You start blowing into the tee from about 6-8" away and watch the pressure gauge. As you move the air hose closer or further away you can control the pressure. By watching the gauge and the light you can determine the pressure of the switch.

Ground on the battery to the body of the switch and the terminal to the light. The other wire on the light gets wired to the positive on the battery

I'm not sure but your I&T manual should tell you what pressure the switch cut's in at. There might be some numbers on the switch too.

 

[RossCountyRam]

Oil pressure switch closing pressure is 3-6 psi per I & T manual.

 

[RossCountyRam]

I think that switch is generic and can be found at about any autoparts store. That said, I try and reuse everything possible and found an oil pressure switch from a junk JD lawnmower engine that works.

View attachment 653527

View attachment 653528

 

[trashman224]

Well I got it wired up, and put back together. She runs. FEL works as should. Just need to top off hydraulic fluid, flush out radiator and a couple other small things but it痴 working.

I know this is an old post, but I have the same tractor and need to change the hydraulic fluid. Did you use Hy-tran or standard Hydraulic fluid like from TSC?

 

[RossCountyRam]

This is what I used. Haven't had any problems.

How is your tractor running and how do you like it? Have any pictures?