1969-JD400 Oil leak

[Zebrafive]

It was about 20 years ago I replaced the crank seal on the 2030. I do not recall the P/Ns for the special tool. It bolted the crank shaft (flywheel removed) and pushed the seal in place.

You will have to disconnect hydraulic lines to split.

On my 2030 I have to remove the loader mount frames. They attach to the rear axle housings and cast front that the axle mounts to. I am not sure how the loader mounts on the Industrial version.

I split by moving the front 1/2, just personal preference.


Does you TM give a wear spec (maybe thickness?) for clutch replacement? I replaced mine do to oil soaked. The Hi/Lo failed and hydraulic oil flowed through the tube the throw out bearing rides on to the clutch disc.

 

[Brokk]

Does you TM give a wear spec (maybe thickness?) for clutch replacement? I replaced mine do to oil soaked. The Hi/Lo failed and hydraulic oil flowed through the tube the throw out bearing rides on to the clutch disc.

There are multiple parts that can be worn. I assume you are talking about the clutch plate?

"Facings must be smooth, even and free from grease. The disk must not be warped. Check hub for cracks or loose rivets and hub splines for excessive wear.

If facing rivets are loose or if the facings are worn down to the rivets, the disk should be replaced."

As for the loader, it is attached by 4 hydraulic arms and two solid arms. They attach to two vertical sections which stay with the back end. Taking off the loader *looks* easy enough. Removing the backhoe looks far more challenging. That thing is a beast.

Since both of you mention rolling one end away from the other... What sort of supports were you using to hold up the end that was moving? The SM only shows stationary legs to hold up the back and for the front they are assuming you are taking it apart, including using a sling to lift out the engine. I'm puzzling over what I could use to hold up that much weight while also rolling.

 

[Peter 315]

You could buy or make a gantry crane...Error | DNS Resolution | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Brokk]

You could buy or make a gantry crane...Error | DNS Resolution | Northern Tool + Equipment

Perfect. So if I can put solid supports under the back 1/2 and use a gantry crane with a sling under the engine, it should allow me to move the front end forward. How far apart do you think they would need to go? I'll need to plan for where to set all of this up and I don't want to find out I didn't leave enough room after everything is apart.

 

[tony gorrell]

im looking for a crc431-3al stanadyne dieel injection pump for my 1967 backhoe

 

[tony gorrell]

well i think its a 1967 anyways its a four sylender

 

[Zebrafive]

There are multiple parts that can be worn. I assume you are talking about the clutch plate?

"Facings must be smooth, even and free from grease. The disk must not be warped. Check hub for cracks or loose rivets and hub splines for excessive wear.

If facing rivets are loose or if the facings are worn down to the rivets, the disk should be replaced."

As for the loader, it is attached by 4 hydraulic arms and two solid arms. They attach to two vertical sections which stay with the back end. Taking off the loader *looks* easy enough. Removing the backhoe looks far more challenging. That thing is a beast.

Since both of you mention rolling one end away from the other... What sort of supports were you using to hold up the end that was moving? The SM only shows stationary legs to hold up the back and for the front they are assuming you are taking it apart, including using a sling to lift out the engine. I'm puzzling over what I could use to hold up that much weight while also rolling.

I built a splitting stand/support with a large, steerable steel wheel. It also uses an ACME thread for height adjustment. I made it to bolt where the side frames bolt to housing the clutch housing bolts to. This was for my JD 2030