1969 Case 588 CT backhoe load cylinder rebuild kits

[briang0]

1969 Case 588 CK backhoe load cylinder rebuild kits

Hi,

I'm a newbie. I just purchased my first backhoe. A 1969 Case 580 CT Backhoe. She's old but seems to have some life left in her. I have some problems to work out. One of which is one of the hydraulic cylinders that make the bucket dump is leaking really bad and it needs to be rebuilt. I have watched a video on You tube and I think I can do it. I have been working on cars and trucks for almost 40 years and I have my 33 year old son for lifting the heavy stuff. I'm having trouble finding any information on the part numbers for the kit to rebuild the cylinder. I went to a local hydraulic place near my home and they want to charge 95 hr to do it. I think I can handle it so I would like to give it a try I just need to know what to buy. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure you will be hear more of me as I start working on this old lady.

 

[BukitCase]

Never heard of a 580CT, but a 1969 should be a 580CK (for Construction King) - mine's a Construction King, but newer (mid-late '70's) - here's where I've bought kits for ALL my cylinders, this is a 580CK page

Case 58CK Seal Kits Application Chart

You're gonna want to be sure WHICH TYPE your pistons are BEFORE ordering seals, read the page (link above) for more -

If you plan to eventually do all the cylinders on your machine, there are a couple specialty tools that will make a HUGE difference in how much you hate hydraulics - one is a gland wrench (the 1266 size will do all your cylinders)

Amazon.com : case gland wrench

If you don't already have one, a 3/4 drive LONG flex handle is also a good plan

TEKTON 15359 3/4-Inch Drive by 38-Inch Breaker Bar - - Amazon.com

This other one will make fitting the internal seals (inside the gland) almost FUN, instead of "oh crap" - probably not worth it for a couple, but sure is for all 12 or 13 on a 580B or C -

Kit King - Rod Seal Install Tool Set - 5 Piece Hydraulic U-Cup Twistor Installation Tool Set: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

If you don't have a REALLY heavy duty vise to clamp the body mount of the cylinders into, you'll likely find it a LOT easier to leave the cylinder bodies pinned in the machine and kit them in place. A 5 gallon bucket and a tranny funnel or two will be useful, as will a comealong (and a place to hook it that lines up with the cylinder)

For getting the new piston seals BACK INTO the barrel, a piece of aluminum flashing wrapped once around the piston and seal and held with a hose clamp will get the seal SAFELY past the cylinder barrel threads; once the newly sealed piston is started into the TAPER (just beyond the threads) you can remove the clamp and flashing - here's where a nice 4-6 pound dead blow hammer (to hit the end of the rod) will help (as will a couple shots of hydraulic fluid down the tube before you start)

You've likely done enough wheel bearing seals NOT to need advice on the outer rod seal install

You WILL still need a heavy duty way to torque the nuts that hold the pistons onto the rods (AND a big vise to hold the rod end); one of the cylinders on my 580B is spec'd at 1000 ft lbs of torque for the piston nut. NOT doing that can get you the chance to fish a loose piston out of the blind end of a 24" cylinder. I haven't done that 1000 pounder yet on mine, but I CAN tell you it'll involve the above breaker bar AND a 6' cheater (I weigh just over 180 lbs, so 1000 lbs divided by 180 = just over 5-1/2 feet of handle) :thumbsup: - I do have a 3/4 drive torque wrench that goes to 400, enough for the smaller cylinders. Removing ANY of the piston nuts is easy enough with a 1" drive impact (assuming you have the pin end clamped in a big-azz vise).

I may have missed a point or two, but hopefully it'll get you started... Steve

 

[DJ54]

Eight years ago, after looking at the tools needed to rebuild that cylinder on my 480 I had a dump cylinder rebuilt at a local independant hydraulic shop that specializes in heavy equipment/ mining equipment/dump truck cylinder repairs. $75 for parts and labor, with a 30 day warranty against leakage due to faulty parts. At the time, the seal kit through Case Construction was $35. I do a lot of my own repairs, but for $40, I let the pro's with the proper equipment/tools to do the job do this one.

 

[briang0]

Thank you for the detailed information I am going through and checking on the tools right now I will have to consider the cost of tools over the potential amount of use. I'm a believer in having the right tool for the job. I currently have acquired a "small"collection over the years but I don't have anything 3/4" drive. Thank you again Steve

 

[briang0]

Re: 1969 Case 588 CK backhoe load cylinder rebuild kits

Sorry another question. Other than the pin that holds the end of the cylinder to the bucket. The only other way that I see the cylinder is attached to the machine is the sandwich of metal brackets with 2 bolts and nuts above and below the cylinder. I see two grease fittings on opposite sides of the cylinder. If I want to remove the cylinder do I have to loosen both bolts and separate the metal plates? If I do will the cylinder just drop. It appears to be held by some sort of knuckle that is greased by the fittings. I ask this in case I chicken out and just bring the cylinder to the local hydraulic shop for repair.

 

[BukitCase]

Sorry, confused me a bit til I remembered you're talking about the bucket CURL cylinders; yeah, those are what's called TRUNNION mount. If you decide to "farm out" the job, you just described how to get 'em out.

Just make sure you have a way to support the back end of the cylinder body while removing - also, be advised that not only are those big flat bars heavy, it's also possible to create a "scissoring" situation. If one of those drops at one end and you're not ready for it, you might lose a finger.

You're right about tools getting expensive - that's why I commented about whether you think you'll end up doing ALL the cylinders on your machine. I've kept tool costs somewhat under control by using Harbor Freight's "Pittsburg Pro" impact rated tools - still not free, and if you're lucky enough to find a local shop that's REASONABLE and you don't plan to do ALL your cylinders eventually, farming out may be best for you... Steve

 

[Sonny580]

I have 2 68 580 ck's and re-did all of the cylinders on them myself.---piece of cake to do-----finding the right kits was a nightmare! ---Finally got Case to send the right ones, as they kept sending the wrong ones. THEN on the other hoe,---it had mixed cylinders on it, so had to take 1 at a time,---order the kit, put it in, take the next one apart, order that kit and finally got it done. ---they worked after that and never leaked.
It will depend on IF you are confident in yourself or not. ---IF you have any doubts, then don't even start the job! ---It is a VERY messy job!
As for tools I never had any of the special BS tools they talk about---don't need them! A couple of homemade spanners will do the job along with a 36" pipe wrench with a 24" one for back-up

 

[briang0]

Re: 1969 Case 588 CK backhoe load cylinder rebuild kits

Hi, I replaced one of the hoses going to the backhoe yesterday. It was a typical job on a 50 year old machine. One half of the hose came off without a struggle but the other side did not want to budge. I ended up having to remove the metal tube it was attached to and brought both to the hydraulic shop they had a better vice and more leverage than I did, they won. I did find that the oil in the cylinder was not clear at all it was brown like the color of caramel candy. I showed it to the guy at the shop and he shook his head and said no no get it out of there. So now I'm going to drain the hydraulic system down. From what I have read there are 2 reservoirs. The one on the side where the loader controls are (right side) is for the loader and the one on the side with the battery is for the backhoe? Is my understanding correct? I looked in the operators manual I have and it says that approximately 5.5 gals. of fluid will come out. Is that for both sides combined? I have a friend who has a waste oil heater can hydraulic oil be burned in a waste oil heater? I have so many questions sorry. I not worried about changing the fluid I'm more concerned about disposing of it. Does anyone happen to know the part number of the filter for the hydraulic system. I know the filter is up near the hand control for the loader. I do not believe there is another one for the backhoe. Thanks, Brian

 

[BukitCase]

Don't think that's right on the reservoir - my 580B has a cross tube where those two sides of the loader frame (reservoir) are tied TOGETHER. Check at the front of the tractor above the pump. Unless the older 580's had TWO PUMPS, it's all tied together... Steve

 

[dfkrug]

Very helpful post, Steve.

You Case owners are fortunate that you can get seal kits for very old machines. For others, seals may have to be found and purchased by size from aftermarket suppliers like Hercules.

I made do without special tools for a long time, but eventually bought the special gland seal installers. Cylinders with small rod diameters are especially hard for gland seal replacement without this tool.

Hydraulic shops often want $100 or more just for labor to replace seals on a cylinder you bring in. AND they often mark up the seals to outrageous levels.