1949 8N Won't Start

[pmsmechanic]

Did you mean that if it dies like turning a switch off it's ignition and if it labors and dies it's fuel?

Yes you are right! Thanks for the correction.

 

[Bartman1959]

When it dies, it's like I turned the key off. When I turn the fuel on, and it doesn't start after several tries, I get fuel dripping from the carb.

 

[Bartman1959]

The points gap on a front mount distributor 8N should be 0.015.

The points gap on a side mount distributor 8N should be 0.025.

I own a '52 side mount distributor 8N.

Thanks, I must have been looking at the wrong part of the manual. I was wondering why the points were closed so much since the last time set them, which was when I installed them at the start of summer. I'll reset them them today to .015. Thanks again.

 

[Soundguy]

you are just looking at the wrong model.

there is a big difference in front or side mount.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

You should NEVER have fuel dripping from the carb.
I have an 8N and a 9N.
Every once in a blue moon I have to open up the carb and blow it out.
I never replace gaskets unless it is time to replace needle and seat.
The old gasket seals just fine.

With fuel valve shut, remove fuel line from carb.
Loosen air hose.
Disconnect choke and governor linkage.
Remove the two nuts that hold carb to manifold.
Lower carb away.

Now you are holding carb in hand.

Over an oil pan:
Clean the carb with solvent andbrush until spotless
Remove main jet needle completely.
Remove the 4 bolts holding carb air horn to body.
Remove float, & needle.
Blow everything out, all passages.
Re-assemble and remount on tractor.
Turn main jet needle 2 turns from lightly seated.

Start tractor.

 

[Tractorable]

Fuel leaking from carb means either the float valve is sticking open or gas has leaked into the float itself and it no longer floats to close the valve.

Disassemble carb per above and check for sticking float valve and/or fuel inside the float.

When you shake a carb you should hear a rattle, if not something is sticking.

 

[Bartman1959]

I reset the points, and it tried to start, but didn't. A strong smell of gas at that point, so I let it sit for a few hours. I had a few minutes, so I went out and tried to start it again, and it fired right up. It ran for a few minutes and died as if I had turned off the key. Yes, I had the fuel on. I tried a few more times to start it, no luck. I didn't have time to use the ohm meter on it yet. I probably won't get out there again until late tomorrow or Friday sometime.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'm getting really suspicious it's the coil. If the points still make the test light flash after it shuts off then there is nothing wrong with the points. (Other than possibly the gap). Test light onto both the coil posts.

I don't know what the resistance of a 6 volt coil is supposed to be. Maybe someone can add that info if necessary. That's one way to test a coil. If you have access to a good 6 volt coil take it along.

 

[Bartman1959]

It's a 12V system, front mounted distributor, and the top mounted coil only has one post, at the top.

 

[Soundguy]

The other poster is not familiar with this ford ignition system. Take the top wire off the coil. Put the test lamp between that wire and ground, crank over with key on. Lamp should blink.

If yes, look at the coil. Make sure the pigtail is not bent over. Make sure the flat tab can contact the conductive nub on the cap.

Fyi, a 6v coil could have a dc cold resistance between .5 & 1.5 ohms, depending on age and who made it.