1715 Lift Arm Leveling Assembly Debacle

[audoguy]

Hi All,

Well I remain amazed at the price of parts. I broke/badly bent my lift arm leveling assembly (the adjustable one) where the bottom fork meets the threaded rod. The threaded rodw/fork is $75 and the whole assembly (which is hopelessly siezed up) is $250!!!!!

Any good ideas? I do weld, but don't trust my skills with that kind of weight/stress, especially on an already bent/broken structure.

The top pin is 7/8 so replacing with a standard toplink will not work. Any ideas????

Audo

 

[Big Wave D]

Do a search for undoing seized parts. I remember one thread was about a guy's receiver being stuck on a Reese hitch.

I've read several threads about making your own anti-seize solution from 1/2 ATF and various other ingrediants. Make enough to soak entire assembly by submerging and let it sit for days if necessary. It WILL work given time.

One can apply heat and some other tricks that are given.

If you use Google and go to Advanced Search page. You can specify only results from this website. Doing so tends to give you much better results than just using the Search built into this site. The built in Search function for most forum boards aren't the greatest.

Hope this helps. There is A LOT of great knowledge on this site, just takes a little time to glean, just stay with it.

 

[JC-jetro]

Hi All,

Well I remain amazed at the price of parts. I broke/badly bent my lift arm leveling assembly (the adjustable one) where the bottom fork meets the threaded rod. The threaded rodw/fork is $75 and the whole assembly (which is hopelessly siezed up) is $250!!!!!

Any good ideas? I do weld, but don't trust my skills with that kind of weight/stress, especially on an already bent/broken structure.

The top pin is 7/8 so replacing with a standard toplink will not work. Any ideas????

Audo

Audo,

I don't know if you saw the thread I started about my bent steering rod. If the metallurgy of the steering arm and the lift is close you can straighten it with heat. The metal was very weldable and I was able to use my wire welder and put a good bead in a crack. I'd put the middle section on heavy vice and use a pipe wrench or make something to allow bending the tip to where it need to go. I had to use acetylene/oxygen to get it pretty hot. Propane will not be enough, mapp gas might be but have not tried it.I think heat like that will free yo the fork section on top or bent it right. I let it cool slowly. at least you might be able to save 2/3 of the part/

JC,

 

[rayikeo2]

This part is a lot different than my 1700 so need a clarifaction. Is this the adjustement to raise and lower one side of your 3 point to level the implement or is it the adjustment for the width of the 3 point arms to prevent implement swing on the emplement you are attaching to?

Does the threaded end parts still screw in and out on both ends or one end?

 

[JC-jetro]

Audo,

I thought I saw a lift arm leveling assembly at the tsc. I went to their site and found the below for $36. I believe that might be the cat's meow for you. You can salvage the top piece from your old one or buy one new for TSC.

JC,

Lift Arm Leveling Assembly for Ford - 0267741 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[audoguy]

Hi All,

Answering two things at once here..... Yes this is the arm that raises and lifts the three point hitch itself. This is the side that is adjustable for implement leveling. This connects to the arm that lifts the implement.

JC,

Thanks. Yeah I'll have to wrestle that thing apart this evening (heat, WD40, pipe wrench, etc) and see if the threads match. If so you are right that would be sweeeeet. I have a TSC 10 minutes away so I'll be in there taking that thing apart and seeing if it fits (annoying the clerks I am sure!!!!)

Thanks for the heads up,

Audo

 

[shade tree welder]

Several additions to the commment already made:
1/2 ATF and 1/2 Acetone by volume makes one the the best pentrating oils
there are. As stated above make enough to soak the complete assy
overnight.

Keep in mind Acetone is very flammable.

If soaking does not work heat with a propane or mapp gas torch, acetylene is
overkill. Tap the end with a hammer as you work the threads back and forth.

I would grind out the weld to a 60-70ｰ vee then weld with MIG or Stick.
Those assy's are mild or low alloy steel so no pre or post heat is needed.
Once you grind out the crack you should be able to bend it back without
heat. I would suggest 6011 or 6013 rod in 1/16" or 3/32" diameter.

I suggest taking these types of assy's apart once a year cleaing with solvent
and reapply a good quality marine grease to the threads. Marine greases
have the best water washout resistance.

Round up all your WD40 and throw it in the garbage, one of the worst
products ever made. Replace with Kano Labs Kroil.

 

[Eagleview]

I was forever bending or breaking my R/H one because I mow embankments with a flail mower . There is not enough movement in these fittings to allow for the mower to be at that angle so I replaced the link with high tensile chain and a shackle at each end . No more problems as the chain can flex .

 

[JC-jetro]

Cool Mate That was my plan B if I ever broke mine, perfectly operational and totally utilitarian.

JC,