1715 Clutch Replacement

[Dataway]

Yep, that's the one ... different shifter of course ... but exact same setup.

I noticed the small ball on the very end of the lever looks squared off a bit on mine ... can't tell if it's wear, or the way it was made. If it's wear I could correct it by adding some weld metal and remachining ... but don't want to do that if it's supposed to be squared off a bit .... I'll take a picture today.

 

[JC-jetro]

Yep, that's the one ... different shifter of course ... but exact same setup.

I noticed the small ball on the very end of the lever looks squared off a bit on mine ... can't tell if it's wear, or the way it was made. If it's wear I could correct it by adding some weld metal and remachining ... but don't want to do that if it's supposed to be squared off a bit .... I'll take a picture today.

yes, it is most likely wear. They need to be as round as possible to slide easier on the shift bosses, the square grey and red casting that move forward and backward to shift gears. Look at the pic below.

JC,

 

[Dataway]

Interesting ... on a 1720 those components are attached to rods inside the clutch case rather than directly into the gear box (top loader). But, the "cups" that interact with the end of the shift lever are the same shape/arrangement.

As you can see ... mine is a bit rough from water running down the shift lever for many years. I can easily add some weld metal and round them back up again. Should last a bit better if I add some kind of boot to keep the weather out and grease it up good. Still working on removing some of the parts in the clutch case that haven't been touched in 30 years.

Also a photo of a genuine NH release bearing compared to no-name aftermarket ... slightly different design that the old no-name, noticeably better quality .. and with actual brand (Japanese) and bearing number on it.

 

[JC-jetro]

I think it probably has enough roundness to the ball to do it's thing. I'll be afraid changing the metallurgy of the tip and not being able to get a good weld on it. I think those rods are heat treated also. It might be difficult to source the part if the weld screws up. I would probably clean all the rust, wipe it with clean and oil it up and test it to see how it shifts. I think it will be better with the new cutter pin to keep the spring tension on. I would make or take a rubber boot if you can take off the shifter stick and slide it down to keep the water away.

 

[Dataway]

Yep, I was worried that weld metal would be too much harder than the "sockets" the lever goes into and wear them out quickly. In operation, yes it was sloppy because of the spring ... but it did still shift well ... it was no particular problem finding a gear.

BTW, is there any area that needs to be greased/lubricated when installing a new clutch? I packed the pilot bearing on the inside (clutch side is sealed, engine side is open), I will grease where the clutch fork contacts the release bearing housing, and the shaft the housing slides on. How about where the pressure plate fingers contact the release bearing?

 

[Dataway]

As a final note .... tractor is back together, clutch is absolutely silent, a bit harsh at the moment but I assume that should ease up with use. Now doing sandblasting painting and new decals while I have things apart.

 

[JC-jetro]

Awsome, clutch disk, pressure plate and flywheel need to work together to smooth things out and break in. it'll be fine

 

[Bedlam]

:thumbsup:

 

[Dataway]

Couple of pics of the old 1715 after the work. Did some buffing of the factory paint, some repainting of various other pieces, replaced the few affordable odds and ends from New Holland.

Still some more paint and repair to do ... and I have to cut apart the right rear wheel and weld on a new outer rim, and put on a new tire. Will probably have to wait till spring, not enough room to paint large parts inside the shop.

 

[JC-jetro]

it's about the right time she is getting some TLC:thumbsup: