1700 REAR LIGHT MODIFICATION

[fig]

I have a 1700 and would like to add a light facing towards the 3pt. What I was thinking about doing is using the existing switch that controls the "turn signals". I was thinking of wiring the two flashing lights to one side of the switch and the light to the other.

That way; when I flip the switch to one side; both amber lights blink and the other side of the switch would control the rear facing light.

Has anyone done this or do any of you see a potential problem doing it this way?

Thanks,
Fig

 

[scrinch]

Can you wire it so that the rear-facing light doesn't blink? I'm not sure you can bypass the portion of the turn signal switch that causes the blink.

 

[SailorBob]

Fig,

I have thought about adding a work light to mine too. I have wired my turn signal lights together so that both light blink instead of turn signals. I don't see much use for turn signals. However, I do have to mow the road frontage outside my fence.

Your Idea may work fine. The only potental problem that I can see is that the you need to make sure that the switch is rated for a high enough amperage. The work light would probably draw a lot more amperage than the signals. That is the reason on a car that a relay is used.

 

[fig]

Scrinch,

Good point. I did not think about the switch controling the blinking. I figured it would have been something in the light itself that did that. I could get the test light out and check easily.

Wouldn't that be a pain in the ***! Now you see it; now you don't; now you see it; now you don't.........

Fig

 

[scrinch]

Reminds me of the old joke....a father asked his son to go back behind his car to see if his turn signals were working. "Well," asked the father, "are they working?" His son replied: "Yes, no, yes, no, yes, no..."

 

[fig]

Bob,

I'm getting all kinds of holes shot in my idea. I didn't think about that either. I guess next time I better think about things a little bit before shooting from the hip. I just hate drilling more holes and adding more switches if I don't have to.

Fig

 

[SailorBob]

I think the blinker is controlled by a flasher in the circuit somewhere. My guess is that it would be under the dash mounted on the firewall and not in the switch. It would need to electrcially be between the bulb and the switch.

I hated cutting the holes for my gauges too. I have a hole about 3/4" on the left front of the control panel with nothing there. It look like it may be for a cig lighter. I can't imagine anything else it could be.

Another thought on the work light. You will need a fuse in the circuit otherwise you could accidentally burn up your tractor if the wires got shorted out. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[yannie1700]

You could go to tractor supply and buy a fender mounted work light with a switch built in, drill a hole in the fender and face it towards the rear that what i did with mine and no problems at all. they even swivel up and down and pretty inexpensive to do as well.
just another option
john

 

[fig]

John,

Did you run power from the "fuse box" under the dash or from the battery direct to the light (with a inline fuse)?

Fig

 

[Eddie]

My YM1700 had a wire already run under the right fender lip at the rear that was hot when the head lights were on. I changed and put a switch on the dash to it so I could use it with a 12V sprayer with spray bar for spraying wild grass in the yard. I cut down an old bush hog frame that was given to me and mad a 3pt hitch for it.