Buying Advice 150 Perkins diesel blowby

[mllud]

GREAT tractor. I would look at the rest of the tractor to make a purchasing decision. Many tractors that age have every darn thing about them worn out and are no fun to own or operate (at any price). And certainly not worth putting time and money into.

He purchased this tractor as stated in pest #3. There are basket case tractors out there. This tractor has a common issue with perkins engines don't get worked hard enough.
I just bought basically the same tractor (203). Every gear in the transmission was ground up. The engine needed rebuilt.

All new gears and bearings for the transmission
$600
Major rebuild engine kit.
$425
Machine shop work
$250

That's $1275

$60 new steering pump
$300 rebuilt injection pump
$30 new water pump
$40 new oil pumt
$50 power steering kit

That's $480

Total $1,755 to completely rebuild everything from the seat forward.
Add another 300 for possibility of needing radiator.

$2.000.00
That doesn't include labor. If you don't know how and not somewhat enjoy the labor involved. Buy one with a warranty.
Not everyone has the budget for a newer kobota.

Sam paid 2500 hundred. If he had to spend another two grand 4500 in not a lot for such a useful machine.
2000 would be extreme. Sam just needs engine repairs. As far as it appears.

These old Massy's are pretty inexpensive to own.

This is the forum for the old Massey's. $2.000 doesn't go very far on parts for newer compacts
In the early 70's if a guy bought ten acres of land options for a tractor were limited to old farm tractors. Now compacts are here. They are great. powerful and fun.
I would never buy a ten year old compact. They are the tractors that will cost more than they are worth to fix. Electronic nightmare.
The old massey has only a neutral safety switch to troubleshoot.
We all live in different worlds with different finances and ideas
I have been buying and using old tractors for 40 years. I like using them more than working on them. You have to at the least go through and replace what's needed
And do a good check of all the fluids. If you bring it home and ride it and wait for something to break and continue that method you will continue to be doing more repairs
Old tractors are pretty simple to work on. The new hydrostatic's are more of a dealer repair

Sam in Tn.
If you just brush hogged for five hours it sounds like your tractor is pretty solid and engine is your main issue. Take care of that issue and stay up on regular maintenance. After a workout like brush hogging go around and carefully check your wheel bearing and differential for heat with your hand. Or a new fangaled temperature tools.

It's too bad we don't have a treadmill for our old tractors to put some hard work on the engines. Most of what most of the work we do with our tractors barley gets them warm.
If a guy spears a bale of hay and drives it out to the cattle and returns it to the barn and parks it doesn't get it warmed up. Over time that makes them slobber.
Enjoy your vintage tractor

 

[LouNY]

"If a guy spears a bale of hay and drives it out to the cattle and returns it to the barn and parks it doesn't get it warmed up. Over time that makes them slobber.
Enjoy your vintage tractor"

I would second the enjoy your tractor,
and add that is one reason to cover the radiator in the winter, it will let the engine and oil coolers build a bit of heat.

Enjoy
Lou

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Blow-by...if you look at the IH 414..B275 series tractors you will see that those tractors came out about 1965. They do have a hose connected from the crankcase to the airintake to get rid of all the blow-by.

I am leeving this as something to think about !

 

[Sam in TN]

Thanks guys for all the help. Going to try and install pistons, rings, and liners myself. If I get in trouble and need help found a local guy who will do it for $400 in labor costs. Looking at kits now and will probably go with Agkits or Sparex as both seem rated pretty good. Once started the tractor runs and drives great except for blowby, if it would start with starter I would use it like it is. Here are some pics and while it has been painted its still a good solid tractor. I paid $2400 and it has 2 brand new back tires. Even if I sink $1000 into it I'll have a good tractor for $3500. I think I did alright, but time will tell.

 

[mllud]

Thanks guys for all the help. Going to try and install pistons, rings, and liners myself. If I get in trouble and need help found a local guy who will do it for $400 in labor costs. Looking at kits now and will probably go with Agkits or Sparex as both seem rated pretty good. Once started the tractor runs and drives great except for blowby, if it would start with starter I would use it like it is. Here are some pics and while it has been painted its still a good solid tractor. I paid $2400 and it has 2 brand new back tires. Even if I sink $1000 into it I'll have a good tractor for $3500. I think I did alright, but time will tell.

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Take some good pictures of linkages and sections as you dissasemble. Bag
and mark bolts. Lay things out as they come off. I lay down cardboard as clean surface to lay parts on
Your starting with a physically clean tractor. That's a plus. Mine was a pig

With a low hour tractor having that much blowby I suspect they used either because of hard starting and your pistons have broken rings or lands.
When they don't start the temptation to use starting fluid overrides common sense. Mine was a victim of either. Two pistons with broken lands and one broken ring. Then a sleeve dropped into the pan. Only either will do that damage.

I like DLTTrekkers statement about later models returning the vent tube to the intake. That's just basic P.V.C. A common practice of the late 1960's and 70's
I may do that on mine. A little homework first.

You will get it done.
Good luck
Nice Tractor

 

[redman135]

If you tear down the engine, then here are 3 things that may catch you out.
1)The engine sump is a structural member, ie it is HEAVY. Toes beware.
2)Take paticular note of the position of the timing marks, and when reassembling turn over by hand BEFORE torquing down the head.
3)If you split the tractor, wedge the front axle so the engine does not flop over as you split the tractor.

Lastly if you have the 6 or 8 speed gearbox engage the pto when putting the tractor back togather and rotate the pto to make the clutch output shaft line up and seat in the bearing properly(saves a lot of frustration). Note if you have a multipower this trick does not work.