135 Gasoline model gas problems

[jaxs]

" But looking at you great close-up pics of the carb, that brass hex-headed plug screwed into the bottom at an angle could either hold the main jet or provide access to it."
I had the same thought when I first saw the pics but decided surely they would have already figured that out but he said there was only one needle and it was at top. I then thought the brass was something behind carb and not part of it.

 

[TnAndy]

The brass nut you guys see at the bottom right isn't a plug (bad photo...hose from the hydraulic pump is blocking a good view of it), it is the electric solenoid which I guess shuts the fuel off internally. When power is applied, the needle in it retracts, allowing fuel to flow internally in the carb, I guess....because it has a float with needle valve on the fuel inlet which I assume shuts off fuel flow when the float rises. (Float Needle on it was replaced with new one from carb kit)

I removed the solenoid, left the wire attached, grounded it, and turned the key on....it retracts with power, extends when power is off.....so it is doing what ever it's supposed to do.

Yes, it does have a 2" long, multi-hole brass jet that the solenoid needle seats into up inside the carb body. I 'assume' this is the main jet. There were also a couple of small, 'conventional' looking brass jets in a couple other places.

All were removed, and soaked in the cleaner can, and their passages blown out with compressed air, then the jets reinstalled.

 

[jaxs]

While we are discussing the shut off and float,have you pulled the plug from bowl and turned key on to see if fuel flow's freely from drain hole? The problem could be simple as valve or in-line filter restricting flow.

 

[TnAndy]

Yep...it's got good fuel flow.

 

[PatrickS2222]

That antirun-on solenoid needle retracts sufficiently to allow fuel to flow when you test it, but what about after it has been energised for some time - it may become weak when it is warmed, and close to some extent.
Also, the 2" multi-holed brass tube the solenoid seats against I believe is an emulsion tube. Usually, fuel is drawn past the solenoid valve, through the main jet and into the tube. Air comes into it through a side port and mixes with the fuel to "break it up" somewhat, then it all exits into the venturi to mix more thoroughly with the incoming air. With the hose from the air cleaned removed from the carb, you may be able to see the fuel in the carb throat while the engine is running at revs - you may need a mirror and torch - but that might give some insight into the problem. While it is running at revs, also try disconnecting the solenoid momentarily to see if there's any difference in the way it runs. Hope this helps.

 

[jaxs]

"you may need a mirror and torch "
:fiery: Whooaaa there Patrick, us Yanks call them flashlights. Just rattling your chain,I injoy our Aussie friends.

 

[PatrickS2222]

"you may need a mirror and torch "
:fiery: Whooaaa there Patrick, us Yanks call them flashlights. Just rattling your chain,I injoy our Aussie friends.

Yep, :thumbsup: Ok ..... that's a flashlight - and a looking-glass! :laughing:

 

[WilliamTO-35]

On a slightly different issue, your gas tank looks a bit rusted. My tank rusted badly on the end next to the battery, where battery fumes can attack the steel tank. Be careful of pinhole leaks at that end. After having to fabricate an entirely new battery box and dashboard support due to rust, I think the extra money for a sealed gel type battery ( about $100 extra) is worth it.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Any luck with this problem yet?

 

[TnAndy]

No, he is still using it 'as is'.

 

[slhilbert]

I have this exact 135 and I have replaced the carb. It was less than $200. With that said couple things. As I am sure you are aware there is a mixture adjustment screw at the top of the carb, it is a brass screw. You have a shutoff solenoid at the bottom of the carb. This isn't needed, as mine broke and I replaced it with a needle I can screw in and change how much gas gets into the carb. You can also adjust the idle with a screw that comes off the gas control lever.

Some other things you might check is that if the sediment bowl is screw on too tight at the tank then you won't get enough gas to the engine and it will starve. Make sure the sediment bowl is on as loose as possible without leaking. I ran into this issue and it baffled me for weeks.

The other thing I would look at is to make sure the spark plug cables are hooked up in the right order. I changed mine out and got them mixed up and the tractor would idle fine, but if you added RPMS it was a mess.

Hope one of those things helps.

Stuart