JWR
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
- Messages
- 3,928
- Location
- So MD / WV
- Tractor
- MF 2660 LP, 3 Kubota B2150, Kubota BX2200, MH Pacer, Gravely 5660, etc.
Awwright.... 19 posts and some more than 2 years old I may as well do my dump on battery opinions. This is limited to 12v, lead-acid, non-marine, non-deep discharge applications (i.e. cars, trucks and tractors.)
1) If it fits it will work. Measure.
2) You do care in many cases which side or corner of the battery has the positive and negative posts. Cable lengths, etc. 24F and 24C batts were once "Ford and Chevy" and the only difference was the terminal placement/orientation.
3) Obviously the terminal type matters -- needs to match your cables.
4) The main things that matter on battery capacity are Amp Hrs and Cold Cranking amps. Bigger is better. Handy comparison is your old battery or the mfr suggested one. None are gospel.
5) Nearly all "store batteries" now are remanufactured. Rare few are really 100% new -- I know of NONE. The "core charge" you get back for turning in your old battery is not a casual accident. The lead and other things WILL get reused.
6) Some new batteries in brand new vehicles are APPARENTLY really new. I have had 2 Ford Motorcraft batteries last more than 7 years and I suspicion they were "really new." One in an F-250 pickup lasted 10 years and I got rid of it for fear it would strand me that next winter.
7) Battery guarantees are a pure joke. Not worth reading or listening to. The only phrase that is worth anything in a battery guarantee is "full replacement" period when there is no prorata BS.
8) My theory is that batteries predominantly "wear out" based on charge/discharge cycles not on years or miles or hours. Largely crud accumulating in the battery case around the plates.
9) I recommend the biggest one that fits the spot you have to put it, provided that extra size shows in terms of CCA and AH. A battery with more lead and more acid has more capacity, usually. Larger tractors tend to have some very large batteries and very hard to find ones. Read that "money." They will cost you way more than car batteries not only because they are large but because far fewer of them are made. Some are "made better" in terms of shock and vibration resistance, etc. which is very hard to prove.
10) All of us no longer teenagers have formed opinions over the decades and favor certain brands. Sometimes justified, sometimes not.
1) If it fits it will work. Measure.
2) You do care in many cases which side or corner of the battery has the positive and negative posts. Cable lengths, etc. 24F and 24C batts were once "Ford and Chevy" and the only difference was the terminal placement/orientation.
3) Obviously the terminal type matters -- needs to match your cables.
4) The main things that matter on battery capacity are Amp Hrs and Cold Cranking amps. Bigger is better. Handy comparison is your old battery or the mfr suggested one. None are gospel.
5) Nearly all "store batteries" now are remanufactured. Rare few are really 100% new -- I know of NONE. The "core charge" you get back for turning in your old battery is not a casual accident. The lead and other things WILL get reused.
6) Some new batteries in brand new vehicles are APPARENTLY really new. I have had 2 Ford Motorcraft batteries last more than 7 years and I suspicion they were "really new." One in an F-250 pickup lasted 10 years and I got rid of it for fear it would strand me that next winter.
7) Battery guarantees are a pure joke. Not worth reading or listening to. The only phrase that is worth anything in a battery guarantee is "full replacement" period when there is no prorata BS.
8) My theory is that batteries predominantly "wear out" based on charge/discharge cycles not on years or miles or hours. Largely crud accumulating in the battery case around the plates.
9) I recommend the biggest one that fits the spot you have to put it, provided that extra size shows in terms of CCA and AH. A battery with more lead and more acid has more capacity, usually. Larger tractors tend to have some very large batteries and very hard to find ones. Read that "money." They will cost you way more than car batteries not only because they are large but because far fewer of them are made. Some are "made better" in terms of shock and vibration resistance, etc. which is very hard to prove.
10) All of us no longer teenagers have formed opinions over the decades and favor certain brands. Sometimes justified, sometimes not.