$11,000 Water Bill

[TnAndy]

The pic in this post show's the pipe is "DWV". I'm not a licensed plumber but as far as I know the "DWV" means Drain-Waste-Vent, only!

BINGO !

DWV pipe and fittings are not meant for pressure. Should have used sch 40, 480 PSI pipe with the bell sockets formed into the ends. The entire line needs to be pulled and replaced.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

I like the idea of having the military lawyers help your wife out, I think it's only fair when your on active duty.

I would have your wife collect as much info as possible and sit down with a Jag? military lawyer and see what they think, you will get more out of your builder if he knows you and your wife are represented by a lawyer(s).

I'm sure the builder will try to get out of not properly fixing the line, I would also tell the guy to redo the line and burry it 3ft down, not the 2ft it was.

 

[justinramani]

The pic in this post show's the pipe is "DWV". I'm not a licensed plumber but as far as I know the "DWV" means Drain-Waste-Vent, only!

I read the ASTM D1785 listing on the pipe which seems to cover pressure systems....

 

[GregbkH]

Could be caused by excess glue not being wiped from the pipe. The glue will actually melt the pipe so the joint will "weld" together. Regardless, the fault should be on the plumber/contractor.

 

[justinramani]

So two votes for poly pipe. Any other potential options?

 

[Oldoak]

I read the ASTM D1785 listing on the pipe which seems to cover pressure systems....

Appears like you are fighting the people here who are trying to help you.

PVC DWV pipe is meant for just what is says: DRAIN-WAIST-VENT. It should have never been used for your water supply line, period.
50 joints, underground, is also ridiculous no matter what type of pipe is used. Just asking for trouble.

Toyboy describes what should be used. That's also what we used here in PA in rural areas from our well casings to dwellings. The only joints are at the connections on both ends and has the durability of a lifetime plus.

Up north here they use the flexible black plastic pipe that comes in a large coil. It's buried in all kinds of soil in a bed of sand. I don't know what they call it, but I'd never use the rigid plastic pipe for anything but drain. Indoor plumbing has gone from copper to PEX also. Home runs, no joints and tough.

 

[justinramani]

Appears like you are fighting the people here who are trying to help you.

PVC DWV pipe is meant for just what is says: DRAIN-WAIST-VENT. It should have never been used for your water supply line, period.
50 joints, underground, is also ridiculous no matter what type of pipe is used. Just asking for trouble.

Toyboy describes what should be used. That's also what we used here in PA in rural areas from our well casings to dwellings. The only joints are at the connections on both ends and has the durability of a lifetime plus.

Definitely not trying to fight anyone on here. Trust me - don't really have much fight left in me at this point. Just want to ensure that I have a full understanding of all the moving pieces. I absolutely appreciate all of the input thus far.

 

[ruffdog]

My house was build using the long black coil of tubing. It has lasted over 20 years with no leaks and it is a 650ft run from the well with a 2hp pump. The tubing says 100psi on it and I think 1-1/4......I'm running about 50psi for press.

 

[ruffdog]

BINGO !

DWV pipe and fittings are not meant for pressure. Should have used sch 40, 480 PSI pipe with the bell sockets formed into the ends. The entire line needs to be pulled and replaced.

Right! The op's pipe and the shape of the joint ends reminds me of the stuff we use as underground conduit.

 

[EddieWalker]

Yes, I know that at least two other leaks occurred at joints. I don't think those leaks were nearly as big.

I believe you said that the run is 1,300 feet. For a water line that far, gasketed pipe has to be used. There is so much movement in the ground that that it pulls and compresses the pipe over and over again. Eventually it fails. Your pictures showing the hole is a classic example of this type of failure. It only takes a hairline crack to give water the ability to leak. Then over time, that leak grows as the pipe erodes. I would have expected this to have taken several years to happen.

Since you have said that there where two other leaks, it's proof that the gluing up of the pipes was done wrong. I see the purple primer and clear solvent. Was Heavy Duty clear solvent used or Regular Solvent? How old was the solvent? I only use new Heavy Duty solvent for PVC water lines under pressure.

How do you know this is the only leak when they have already found two others? Is there a shut off valve just before the house? Can you turn it off and then look at the meter to make sure there the wheel isn't turning?

How old is the meter? The guy in charge of my water district told me that some water districts have older pumps that will surge the water. In older water meters, they will read this surge as water going through the meter as usage even though it's just surging back and forth.

Bottom line, the wrong pipe was used for your water line. Whoever made that decision is responsible for it failing. It has to be replaced with the proper pipe!!!!!!