1.5 acres. Am I nuts for thinking about a tractor?

[GeneV]

If you're doing your own property maintenance, a loader is REALLY handy, so no I don't think you're nutz for wanting one for maintaining 1.5 acres. Plus, you could plow your driveway with it. I'd skip the backhoe though, instead would get a stump bucket for occasional digging.

Also, although I'm not a big fan of midmount mowers on a scut, in your case I'd get one instead of a z-turn. If it takes you 1.5 hrs to mow with a walk-behind, a mmm 60" deck will halve that time. If I was you, I'd have the loader off mostly, keep the tractor set up as a mower. And then would mount the loader when needed.

 

[Kennebec_Guy]

If I was doing just a few projects, I would rent the specific tool for the job.

Mini ex for digging.

Bobcat for moving matieral.

Large tractor for trees.

My buddy has a sub compact and all he uses is his baby back hoe. He had a skid steer for when he did loader work and sold it when done

If you plan on doing any real lifting , I would look for a 5000lb plus machine. it may advertise 800lbs but by the time you stack bags of material, load up logs or what ever, you run out of tractor fast. I have a 50hp 7000lb machine and wish I had more most days

I'd thought about that but with the number of weekends I'd need you get into 5 figures of rental fees pretty fast and if I'm spending that much cash I'd much rather just own a machine outright at the end of it. >95% of my to do list is moving/filling materials so a ~1500lb capacity compact tractor's loader seems to fit that bill, and I figure I'll just rent a mini excavator for the one or two times when I actually need to dig. I wasn't even considering a subcompact as they seem like expensive toys to me, unless you're primarily looking for a mower that can also help around the yard in a pinch. Otherwise, the price difference to jump up to say a 25hp Kioti CK or an economy Deere 3 series seems relatively minimal for a massive increase in stability and loader capability.

 

[jeff9366]

For 1.5 acres on a slope I recommend a tractor with a bare weight of 1,800 to 2,200 pounds, rather than a tractor nearer 3,000 pounds bare weight.

A Front End Loader is a necessity for the work you have described.

You are not contemplating any serious "ground contact" work where tractor weight is key. Rather, you will be operating over your one acre lawn most of the time. I would forego "loaded" rear tires for the same reason. Counterbalance weight on the Three Point Hitch, such a the Box Blade you are considering, is much more effective pound for pound than tire ballast because of leverage and can be readily removed.

Tractors - Compact - LX Series | Kubota

Browse through Kubota's LX Series Compact tractor inventory, filter search by features to find the best fit for you, or even build your own. Then find a dealer close by with your desired product!

www.kubotausa.com

Buckeye Tractor Co -- Online

Manufacturer of specialty equipment for production of vegetables, fruit and flowers. Some nursury and landscaping applications.

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Good luck in your decision.

 

[jeff9366]

What size/hp range should I be considering?

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other single (1) specification.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Sufficient tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is worse than depreciation on a tractor.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My Kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

 

[jeff9366]

I've yet to see a use case quite like mine.

We recently bought a 1.5 acre property and historic home in Maine.

T-B-N ARCHIVE:

tractor for 1.5 acres site:tractorbynet.com

 

[Carl_NH]

Hi Kennebec,

I don't know your soil/land but if it's anything like most of New England, every spade you turn up a rock. I started with a started with a 20HP Mitsubishi with a loader, then restored an L185 Kubota with a BH and finally got my B21 TLB in 2001.

Strongly suggest getting a BH now and look closely at the BH mounting - closest to the tractor is best with a 4 point mount that doesn't impact the ground clearance - and one with a tractor seat that rotates to run the BH - its also a counter weight. I know people here will say don't buy the BH - just rent etc. but are in sandy/loam soils and a tree spade works for them but not here.

Yes, you can rent a mini ex, but building walls takes time then planting, excavating for walkways, wires etc. you will not regret having a BH.

 

[jeff9366]

The property is on a gently sloping hillside with an acre of lawn.

I was thinking that a 25-hp emissions-exempt compact with loaded tires would be a good place to start.

For your tasks I would look at a little TLB (tractor-loader backhoe)

 

[timbatrader]

Of cause you need a tractor but I would go for a fifty year old 2wd Massey Ferguson 35 or similar cheaper to buy run and maintain and with the cash you have saved buy a mini excavator great for landscaping and so much fun

 

[chim]

Get the tractor you want and make certain it's large enough. I bought "larger" several times till I was satisfied.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

A 25hp SCUT (subcompact) will do everything you need to do, plus be very maneuverable on your property.

I built my whole property including the septic, utility trenching, and cut in a driveway. Took longer than a bigger tractor, but I enjoyed doing the work.... on my own time... not a rental places time.

As others have said, get the backhoe at the time you get the tractor. (If you are getting new, a lot cheaper then)
I wouldn't get another tractor without one! You will find many uses for it aside from digging a hole!

My one neighbor has 20 acres and a JD 1025 (SCUT). Uses it primarily for mowing and maintenance on a long driveway. They do a little garden, so tilling also.

My other neighbor has a 5 acre lot, house and 2 big out buildings. He has a cabbed JD 55 hp tractor. It's actually funny watching him try to maneuver around the buildings. He can't get close enough to do any landscape work near the house.
He was putting up a 6' stockade fence last week, digging the holes for the posts by hand. The post hole digger for the tractor sitting about 25ft away..... he couldn't fit the tractor in where the fence was to go.

Go sit on a bunch of tractors, see which one "fits" you. There ARE subtle differences in the different manufacturers.
SCUTS are real tractors... specifically designed for tasks like you are describing, on properties about your size they are great little workhorses.

Check the specs carefully. Some are much stronger. Specifically check the hydraulic pump flow... higher is better. Make a spread sheet, list all the specs you can find. Lastly, the price. Comparing side by side specs reveal quite a surprise!

I started out with a SCUT when we were building. I ended up selling my LS MT125 scut for almost what I paid 2 years earlier. I wanted to get a 'bigger' tractor, so got another 25hp unit, but now is a full sized frame CUT (compact utility tractor)(LS XG3025 TLB).
Yes, the loader bucket is twice the size, the mower is bigger, the box blade is much bigger. More hydraulic power? -- yes --- so it lifts another 60% more.
BUT --- now I can only get into about half the spots that I would like to get to....

Do I miss the little SCUT? Absolutely!
I'm considering getting another scut now that the landscaping and property is getting "tight". I miss the little scut being able to get in and turn around in tight spots.

Good luck with your search, ask a lot of questions.