1/2 galvanized conduit

[fishpick]

OK - I have done the tables, I have tried different rod - I'm just gonna ask the people that do this all the time. What's the right setting (AC/DC and EP/EN) and what rod and how hot - to weld 1/2 EMT conduit with blowing through - OR - not just spitting it on the surface... YES - I know - I need to "work on it" - but I'm looking for a ballpark set of setting here! Just something to get me NEAR where I should be - cause the pile of scraps and half spent rods says - I'm WAY off

 

[flusher]

OK - I have done the tables, I have tried different rod - I'm just gonna ask the people that do this all the time. What's the right setting (AC/DC and EP/EN) and what rod and how hot - to weld 1/2 EMT conduit with blowing through - OR - not just spitting it on the surface... YES - I know - I need to "work on it" - but I'm looking for a ballpark set of setting here! Just something to get me NEAR where I should be - cause the pile of scraps and half spent rods says - I'm WAY off

I don't do this often, but I'd carefully grind the galvanize coating off first.
Then I'd use 3/32" 7014 rod, DC+, 80 amps and see what happens.

 

[brandoro]

Like flusher said, get rid of the galvanized coating. That stuff is bad for you.
Not being too proficient with the arc welder on light stuff myself, I have done a lot better sticking thinwall together with the O/A torch and brazing rod. It makes a joint that is about as strong as the tubing.
What are you making? Knowing that might make the responses to you get more applicable.

 

[AlanB]

Can I start with a question please? What joint are you doing? I am assuming you are not fishmouthing and I am assuming you are doing a T joining an end to a middle section?

If that is the joint I am assuming you are squishing the end flat a bit so they sit together well.

Assuming that is what you are doing, I am sure you are aware that is the happy place for a 110 v mig with .023 wire? And I am guessing you have a small stick welder and need to accomplish this task with that?

If I was sticking it, as Flusher said, I would use a 7014 which is a fast fill, fast freeze rod.

I would differ in that I would use AC as in my opinion as the wave travels from + to - of nueteral then you recive a small additional benefit of cooling the puddle. (I also think most 7014 is optimised for AC.

I would also go 80 amps or so, lower if your machine will go down further. If I could start about 50 then come up I would. A better more experienced welder will weld hotter then a less experienced welder with more travel speed generally. Start low, and raise as needed.

In the what is possible. My dad repaired soccor goals that had rusted in several places that were made from exhaust tubing on the field one time for a freind of his. We showed up unprepared as we were told they were made from water pipe. (black pipe) When we saw the guy moving them around and they were 2.5" diameter or so we realized there was some miscommunication somewhere.

Dad welded those together with 6011 1/8" about 75 amps, AC. I could not make it work, and he did it beautifully.

 

[MikeD74T]

Years ago I made a sidecar frame for my son's bicycle out of 3/4 EMT. Used 3/32 6011 & a Sears colormatic AC welder set on the lowest setting that would hold an arc. I was welding full time then and had a steadier hand & much better eyesight than today. Worked outside with a fan to keep the galv fumes at bay. MikeD74T

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

First, Dont weld galvanized unless you have to. If you have to, do it in a well ventalated area. They also claim drinking milk will help. I spent 2 days in the hospital from the fumes from welding galvanized pipe in a closed garage.
Bill

 

[wroughtn_harv]

I learned to weld welding galvanized thin wall. 3/32 6011 and an old Forney buzz box that jumped ten amps every plug. So it wasn't dialed in like you could with a Miller and you just moved faster.

The secret is to not try to weld it and you can weld it. By that I mean you forget all the stuff about working a puddle etc. Because if you're looking for a puddle all you're going to see is a hole. It's about as close to a faith thing as you'll ever do. It's almost like welding with your eyes closed but it works once you learn to get the arc going and then start moving. My dad could lay it around a pieced of fifteen gauge hot dip galvanized and the welds would be beautiful. I got okay but never as good as he was, dads being dads and sons being sons and all.

As for the galvanized fumes. I've welded it all my life and only got zinc sick a couple of times. Knocked me in the dirt for a couple of hours and that was that. But I had friends who came by while I welding galvanized that got sick for days afterwards from just being around some fumes. It's an individual thing that I figure depends entirely upon the person and their body and how it handles it.

That's why I don't recommend people who haven't done it doing it. You don't know how your body is going to deal with it. It might not bother you but then it might wreck your life. If you have to do it anyways you can get face masks at your welding supply that will remove most of the fumes. The one hitch in the get along with those is they're not designed to work around a beard. I haven't shaved in over twenty something years and ain't about to start now.

If you're using the emt because it's available then I suggest you find a good steel supply store. You can get good tubing that's not galvanized that will work better and be easier to work with. It just won't be as cheap, unless you consider the price of lost work if the fumes do to you what I've seen it do to others.

 

[firefighter jim]

First, Dont weld galvanized unless you have to. If you have to, do it in a well ventalated area. They also claim drinking milk will help. I spent 2 days in the hospital from the fumes from welding galvanized pipe in a closed garage.
Bill

Agree with Bill, I would not weld galvanized steel.

 

[fishpick]

Thanks for all the replies... Here's some info about the "plan":
1) never had an issue with zinc fumes - so I'm a lucky one... but I always weld with the barn doors open - fans on - and charcoal filter under the face shield.
2) Really want to use the EMT because of the galvanized factor... why?
3) I have a "nice" Hobart AC/DC EP/EN buzz box. It's got lots of settings and I can do the job of fixing tractor parts / implements when I need to... small stuff - that's tough because you can't just "crank it up and spray metal on the problem."
4) in relation to #3 - I run a really mean grinder

Now - what am I doing?

Making a pasture chicken coop - at least I'd like to. I have several of these built out of wood - How was this animal raised? Chicken Thistle Farm - they work fine, are nice, but are also HEAVY! The same design with EMT would be about 1/2 the weight and about as strong... the issue is - if I build it with special fittings and don't weld it up - it's nutty expensive.

What I have been trying is mashing the end of a tube flat and then trying to weld that onto the adjecent tube where the joint would be made. Nothing fancy (chickens don't care about the look) but it does need to hold.

Will take some of these tips to task later this week...

 

[Craig Clayton]

Dear fishpick
I am electrician which has nothing to do with the welding trade, except I welder 1/2" EMT on a toothed rake as a handle and it lasted for years. 6013 on AC and a small rod. Try to direct most of the heat to the base metal.
Craig Clayton