“Forcing” the FEL to lift?

[WinterDeere]

It helps too if you use the curl function as you load the bucket. It has more power than you lift function.

That seems to vary tractor to tractor, and maybe bucket to bucket.

On my old tractor, curl could definitley lift loads that the lift function alone could not. But the bucket was lighter and had less depth.

On my newer tractor, bucket curl stalls out even before the lift cylinders, although they're pretty closely-matched under most circumstances.

 

[usmron]

If you have pallet forks, you might try using them to fluff the pile. There is less resistance as the compost falls between the forks, but it still does a good job of mixing. If I'm adding water, I do it after fluffing.

I sometimes use my grapple hooks to turn a compost pile.

 

[ZiggyD]

as the pile began to get more saturated, the lifting challenged the capabilities of the loader, eventually to the point there was no lift without backing out of the pile just a bit

Sounds like ammonia too much water issue to me.

Compost piles are best at field capacity at most. This is when you take a clump and squeeze it and only a few drops of water come out. Unless you have issues with your hydraulic pump, the FEL should easily be able to turn over compost as it’s relatively light.

 

[bigtiller]

Just a means of holding the plow marker, as a visual on how far the hitch receiver projects, so I would stop backing it into things in close quarters.

On my old tractor, I rarely used the hitch receiver on the ballast box, so I'd remove it when not in use. That machine was fine towing trailers from the drawbar.

But on my newer tractor, even the empty bucket is so heavy that the tractor has traction problems without the ballast box installed. So now the hitch receiver is pretty much always left installed, and I keep the plow marker installed on it most of the time when I don't have a trailer in tow.

For the same reason, I made a flag for my front hitch for when I am mowing...it helps.

 

[Lavender Valley]

Yesterday Julie and I began turning next years compost pile… me in the tractor seat - she was armed with a hose… the pile was incredibly dry throughout…

At first pushing into the pile and lifting the dry contents was easily a full-bucket endeavor… as the pile began to get more saturated, the lifting challenged the capabilities of the loader, eventually to the point there was no lift without backing out of the pile just a bit… so…

Are there issues with holding the function lever in the lift position while adjusting the tractors position (backing out of the pile) until the FEL begins to rise? There were no untoward noises, smells or excessive heat encountered whilst trying to lift when the lift wasn’t sufficient to overcome the weight of the heavy bucket load… still…

I’m aware of the pop-off valve in the system… will engaging the relief for more than a brief period weaken it’s capacity over time?

All hydraulic systems have a relief valve in the hydraulic bank (where the levers are). The oil when the relief valve opens, returns to the tank, and the lift function stops. It's better if the relief is set in the lower range, as I have seen cylinders split, hoses blown and the hydraulic control bank split.

 

[dieselscout80]

For the same reason, I made a flag for my front hitch for when I am mowing...it helps.

View attachment 3582109

Love the front hitch!!

Do you have a front PTO too?

 

[WinterDeere]

All hydraulic systems have a relief valve in the hydraulic bank (where the levers are). The oil when the relief valve opens, returns to the tank, and the lift function stops. It's better if the relief is set in the lower range, as I have seen cylinders split, hoses blown and the hydraulic control bank split.

Probably less likely today, when most are running loaders that were specifically designed for their CUT, than in the old days of third-party hydraulic systems. Manufacturers obviously want to run the highest safe system pressure, to advertise maximum safe lift capacities without the cost of larger cylinders, but they're going to ensure the components in their own system leaving the factory are all rated well above the relief pressure in order to avoid the warranty and reputational costs of component failures.

 

[bigtiller]

Love the front hitch!!

Do you have a front PTO too?

Yes, it powers my front mount 60" snowblower.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

Here is an alternative - "how it works" thought. Having to slightly back out of the material as you lift is more of a function of the dirt pile that is staying rather than what you are lifting. The geometry of tractor loaders is such that the loader actually moves forward on its way up when the bucket is lower than the loader hinge pin. So, when you are lifting from the ground your loader either has to push the pile forward or push the tractor backwards in order to lift the load.

I tried to illustrate below. The lift cylinder is pushing almost exactly forward on the loader. The arc the bucket has to take without curling the bucket is the other red line. So it has to go pretty far forward in order to lift. I have a baby tractor so I have to make use of this knowledge most of the time when I am moving material. I can always get a fuller bucket - faster - if I walk the tractor backwards slightly while I'm curling and lifting.

 

[HAR]

My 2 cents: Your loader/bucket has a maximum lift weight, and also a maximum breakout force. If you cannot break out or lift, you are overloading. Either try to take/do less or get a larger tool.

Also, RTM...read the manual. Generally, manuals have instructions on how to efficiently use the tool. Attached is the "filling the bucket" instructions from my loader.