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New starter installed. Fired right up.

It might have sparked and made a click. I don't remember. No to the other questions.

Yes I did. It didn't work.

Agreed.

I have a new starter coming on Monday. I'll do that with the new starter because it is a giant PIA to get to the bottom nut of the starter. You cannot get to it with your fingers or a socket. You have to use a crows foot. I still have another major problem though. I am getting 12 volts to...

I tried my jumper cables, my tractors cables and another set of smaller cables. I do not believe all three are bad.

That voltage was either 12.5 volts or 14.5. I've done everything you have described.

For clarity: When I tried to jump the starter I bridged the big post on the starter (solenoid) to the "s" terminal. Nothing. Next I hooked up jumper cables to my truck and to the tractor battery and did the same thing. Nothing. Next I went straight from my truck to the big post on the...

Just a farm.

It's wierd. I have replaced 4 bad starters this year in different machines. All were standard diagnostics.

That makes sense. When I tried the starter when it was on the machine I brought 14.5 volts to the starter from my battery directly via jumper cables. The starter wouldn't even spin a little. Is it possible the internals of the starter were shorting out inside the starter?

That battery started my diesel truck by itself and my truck has two batteries. That was how I loade tested it. The battery is fine. If the cables between battery and starter measure the same voltage, how can the cable be bad? Not trying to argue but I don't understand what you're saying.

It's not the battery. Please trust me on that.

Brand new battery and brand new negative cable. I tested them for continuity just to be sure. When I tried jumping the starter from my truck, the positive on the starter, alternator and battery all measured at 14.5 volts.

Got the starter out and bench tested it and it works. I could not get it to spin on the tractor. Now I'm stumped.

The starter is bad

I did that a long time ago.

When the starter is disconnected I get voltage to the S (small wire on the starter solenoid). The odd thing is I get that voltage in the start and run positions. I thought you only want it in the start position.

That's my next step when I get to the farm.

I did. I'm pretty sure the starter is bad. Maybe it is causing it.

Correct. The small wires go into a Deutch connector and then into the relay. If I disconnect the Deutch connector and put the ignition in run, I get 11 volts into that small wire. When I plug the connector back in, I don't' get voltage and the relay makes noise.

The relay tests out good and ground is good. Since I am getting voltage to the big post and the relay is not working, I am not getting voltage to the small wires to activate it. The wiring diagram in the manual is poor so I need to visually check where the small wires go.

I don't know. I am heading out to the farm to run continuity tests on it. I'll check ground as well.

I checked my starter relay. It is getting voltage to it, but not out of it.

I agree the starter is probably bad. Not getting power to the solenoid is another issue.

Plenty of voltage on load tested battery. The starter will not engage by doing that. I also am not getting any voltage to the "S" terminal.

Yes. I have done all the simple basic things. I need an actual wiring diagram. Could be a bad key switch, relay, wire, ect...

I have a 2013 5045E that won't crank. I am trying to diagnose the problem. I have TM901619 29April15. I don't think it is right for my tractor. Can anyone help?