Try a jumper wire from the + battery terminal to the solenoid terminal on the starter. If the starter spins reliably, then the solenoid is OK, if not replace.
Also, if the tractor lives in the weather or in an open shed then it's possible that the main battery/starter cables have corroded...
Thanks, I hadn't noticed! I reversed the wheels to give more track & must have mixed them up.:unsure: I'll swap 'em over today after I've finished bashing rushes with my Zetor & flail.
I've just done the same on a Wheelhorse rear agrityre<DOH> I had such a wrestle to break the bead (hasn't...
Everybody loves workshop pics so here are a couple of mine.
When I built it 40 odd years ago I never dreamt I'd need to get a 10ft tall tractor or modern pickup inside, so it's a nuisance that I can't. I bet if I'd built it to take a 10ft tractor I'd probably now have a 12ft one anyway:D. Thats...
No idea of the flow /pressure - the ram is one of the bucket curl rams from a loader & I currently use it on the hydraulics of a Cushman Turf Truckster which has a 3 cyl Kubota engine & a hydraulic pump driven by a single A belt! It works fine for speed on the Cushman, power not so impressive...
Just completed connections (see below) - all works fine:) with one proviso: I had 4 new 1/4 BSP QD connectors in the workshop- can't remember where I got them from - probably in a box of stuff from a local auction... Anyway,when I connected a test cylinder to these, on using the spool I could...
Ah! I thought the cable connectors looked "factory" to me & I've now found that , although not shown on the wiring diagram, there IS a "fusible link" factory fitted in there.
https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/fusible-link-new-yanmar-194550-51220-181057.html?Screen=PROD&Product_code=WH-455...
Just found that the plug on the left side of the gearbox is actually 3/8BSP! Checked the output & return on the hydraulic distributor & they are both 3/8BSP too! That'll make connections much easier since I have lots of 3/8BSP fittings in my collection. I hope the internal plug fitting is...
Right, I've fixed a double spool valve I had surplus behind the seat of my 1820, read up all about the need to insert a plug in the Yanmar hydraulic distributor & the need for a power-beyond sleeve in the spool valve, so I'm all set to plumb her up.
What size hydraulic pipes do others use? My...
Yes - it's a timer for the Thermostart circuit. When you switch on the TS, this box lights a small red lamp below the ignition switch. Hold key in TS position & this light goes out after about 20 seconds. Not needed functionally: it just supplies the warning light as far as I can see, the...
Clean wire from teminal C on the ignition switch direct to the S terminal on the solenoid.
Turn key: fuse blows.
Found a 40AMP slow blow MAXI fuse & connected that in place of the fuse.
Turn key: fuse blows
I dug out an old ammeter from a box in the garage where it has sat for about 40 years...
I'm thinking that the pull-in coil in the solenoid is drawing too much current & blowing the extra fuse before the reduced hold-in current is applied. What troubles me is WHY they put in the fuse in the first place. Solenoid & starter work perfectly with jury rigged wires, just not with the...
Yeah - I agree with all that. I'll try a new wire from terminal C to the solenoid & see if the fuse blows. Just to avoid misunderstanding, I attach the following sketches showing (Start1) what should be in place
& (Start2) what was in place when bought.
I'll be quite happy to ditch the...
But it's in the ignition feed, not the actual heavy starter circuit. i.e the wire that feeds the ignition switch & subsequently all accessory circuits. It has to handle supplying the solenoid switch current (about 10A apparently)until the engine starts & supplying accessory current thereafter...
My fully equipped neighbour departed yesterday to Germany for a fortnight to visit relations. I'm opening & closing their chickens for the duration!
Our wire guages are different from the AWG but even keeping the stop cable pulled & running the starter on the small guage temporary cables for 10...
I get 12v at the original solenoid wire when clutch depressed & key to start. 0v when clutch up. I've checked continuity from ignision switch to clutch switch & from clutch switch on to solenoid. All seem OK.
It starts easily by jumping 12v to the solenoid start with no indication that the...
None at all, except that 25amp was the fuse I found in it. Looking at the conductor size, I'd be surprised if more than 10 amps though.
I've no direct way of measuring the current (multimeter max of 10amp), I'll check the ohms & work back from there, but I wonder if just a slow-blow fuse would...
It's strange:all connections are clean & freshly greased with dielectric grease. Solenoid works perfectly when supplied from its battery terminal. (The main solenoid terminals are not being jumped -just 12v applied to the small terminal & all is OK)
Yanmar YM 1820 - does not start via ignition key. Previous owner had disabled connection to the starter solenoid & added jumper wires from solenoid battery & start terminals, now I think I know why.
He had also, wisely in my opinion, added a 25 amp blade fuse link in the white/red ignition...
Right - I've proved all the wiring on the tractor - all works as it should except for the starter which still works fine with the separate push button. So to keep this thread somewhat relevant to the title(!) I'll start a new thread.
I've realised that it is in fact WI1-07 rather than W11- I found an old post from Winston back in 2012 that described it & it is in fact a timer for the thermostart as he suggested, fair does!
I tried holding the key in the TS position today & the red TS indicator light goes off after about 20...
Yeah _ I know about Thermostarts - I had one on a UTB 445DT & still have a new one in it's box in my garage (was the wiring to the thing was dead on the UTB, not the TS)
I'll have a look for that - thanks!
I've just found a wiring diagram for a YM 2420 that seems to have this box in the circuits (it's a lot clearer than the one for the 1820).It seems to connec to the little red light & what might be the thermostart. Does anyone have a wiring diagram in English for this model they could post ?
Just taken a couple of pics of the mystery box.(See below) I thought I'd cracked it today by removing & cleaning all the connections on the fuse box & fuses even though they all looked fine (I hate glass fuses, but at least they are better than the old Euro fuzes with exposed fuse links, though...
Fredericks Equipment looks a very useful reference site too, though I expect the shipping costs would kill any order possibility. Luckily most engine parts are easy over here since Yanmar engines were widely used in diggers & dumpers as well as the compact tractors
Looks exactly like it - I'll post some pics today. I wonder what it might do for the thermostart? Sense temperature & inhibit operation unless below 0 Celsius? I'd be surprised if I ever needed the thermostart this little engine is such a good starter & our temps never get much below 5 Celsius...
Yeah I know what you mean - my first tractor an UTB 445DT (sold in US as a Long 445) needed a complete rewire since just about every cable was rotted. I've found the former Soviet bloc countries couldn't do plastics at all well - ever felt the interior panels in a Yugo or Lada? Ugghhh!
Ditto...
I've just picked up a really nice little YM1820(see below) with the usual tractor wiring issues - I suspect connections behind the fusebox would be the main culprit. Ignition switch partly works but previous owner had bodged two wires to be joined under the the bonnet (hood!) to start her up. As...
I doubt the grease trick will do the job - it works well with bushes, like the pilot bearing in a crank, but the grease will just extrude through the balls. I admit I've never tried it with cloth as well though.
Careful (eyes) if you try it because the grease can jet out between balls, or any...
If there is no room under the bearing to get the puller legs in from the inside, you will have to destroy the bearing to remove (might not be a bad idea to replace it anyway - they are usually marked with the bearing code & are cheap enough if you don't go to a Kubota dealer! )
Weld a bar across...
. Blimey - talk about money to burn!!
Don't buy anything until you have thoroughly cleaned the battery cable connections & the earthing point(s) on the engine & chassis. 10:1 it's just a bad connection. Next thing is to check the cable terminations. If these are bad then just shorten the cable...
Depends what you want to cut - on my land, a lowland marsh, cutting rushes 3ft high will bog down my 70hp Zetor tractor unless you slow down to 1 or 2 mph! That's with a 6ft Turner extreme heavy duty flail mower that weighs over 15 cwt (1700lbs).
Cutting grassland in a more arid climate than...
I'm surprised that the rocker adjustment is not capable of accomodating a head skim without further work.
If you find out how many thou the head was skimmed, say 20 thou (.020"). If 20 thou was taken off then 20 thou needs putting back - simples!
Then get some 20 thou flat sheet & cut out the...
Shutoff solenoid has a pull-in coil & a hold-in coil. Sounds like the pull in works, but the hold-in doesn't? If current is kept applied to the pull-in coil it will burn out, which sounds as if it is happening. If the solenoid is external to the injection pump & just acts on the linkage (like on...
Ah! If the HNL lever is limp then have another look. You should definitely have some feel as you move from H-N-L and back. There is a pin that connects the lever to the shaft that is notorious for dropping out. Yours may be partially out & occasionally sliding out, then back in?
It happened...
https://crosskeys-stores.co.uk/product/tractor-transport-link-box/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqauVBhBGEiwAXOepkU3zeiBLf_949M9ipj3eoFaAjUXBp1T15ObwkX2GGlz8N9f-9pjc4BoCzFMQAvD_BwE
Does no one in America make these? There are multiple firms in UK offering these since the 1950's at least & probably earlier...
I agree it sounds like there is some binding on the splines of the shaft. Try spraying some brake & carb cleaner, ideally with a tube nozzle, onto the shaft through the inspection port? Work the clutch pedal up & down a lot & keep respraying until you think you have cleaned up the splines. I...
May be worth annealing the new casting thoroughly before you fit it? If you have a wood stove, put it in there & heat it up to dull red for a while, then let it cool down as slowly as possible - keep immersed in the wood ash, or let the stove go out by itself if that is practicable. Should...
I think a standard 3Point splitter goes for between £350-550 second hand, so I agree if you are starting from scratch to buy an RSJ, plates & angle iron, cylinder, valve & lines it makes much more sense to buy a used one.
If you have a supply of what my wife calls "scrap" & I call "stock" plus...
I had the same manual splitter (Ebay second hand £12)& the same idea as you! The problem with using the jack with externally supplied hydraulic pressure is that there is no return path for the oil. In a jack the cylinder overflows (small hole near top of bore) into the external case which holds...
Don't need one myself, since 90% of my wood is from hedgelaying, so max 6-8" dia, but the best solution I've seen is from NZ :-
He's a very clever bloke, that one!
How about this type? The bottom hinge is the two legged one, so it's self closing in both directions
Self-Closing Hinge Sets for Chain Link & Tubular Gates - Hoover Fence Co. - All things Fence and Fence Related
I don't have a picture of my setup - last time I did it I was boring the base of an old Redding shotgun reloading press I'd been given. This was only about 4" wide, but the principle is the same. I did find this set up, which gives the general idea, though a LOT newer (& smaller) than my lathe !
I have an UTB 445DT which is the 4WD version of the Long 445. This is a selectable 4 WD or front wheel assist arrangement.
On mine the front axle can move forward or backward by over 1/8"!
I could, for now, slide in a brass thrust washer to take up this slack, but its clear the trunnion bearings...
I have a Long 445DT which comes fitted with a factory remote hydraulic valve intended to operate a double acting cylinder via two quick connects at the rear. Down feeds one connect & up feeds the other. It has previously been modified so that the lever-down valve outlet is piped to a spool...
I'm using a tractor with a TPH mounted implement basically for the first time ( an Universal 445DT sold as a Long445 or Allis 5045 in USA ) & running a 5 ft Rhino topper similar to a Bush Hog with a rear castor wheel.
I've selected position control & set the TPH arms for a suitable height to...
I'm having trouble fitting a toplink pin (3/4") to a Universal 445 (Long 445 or Allis Chalmers 5040 in US).
I've turned some pins to 3/4" on the lathe - they fit the toplink well, but I cant get them into the toplink housing on the tractor - there's no way to get a straight push on the pin to...
Just thought I'd turn up some 3/4" pins on the lathe to fit a top link to my Long 445 ready to run a bush hog & mower I'm picking up Wednesday night.
Pins are great & fit the top link easy, but cannot get them into the toplink support on the tractor.
There are 4 holes for the toplink pin, but I...
Just thought I'd turn up some 3/4" pins on the lathe to fit a top link to my Long 445 ready to run a bush hog & mower I'm picking up Wednesday night.
Pins are great & fit the top link easy, but cannot get them into the toplink support on the tractor.
There are 4 holes for the toplink pin, but I...
I have a backhoe with a subframe mount that doesn't suit the tractor I've bought - Long (Universal) 445 DT.
I was going to mount it on the TPH, but my tractor has a good quick release FEloader on it (See picture attached) & the brackets & rails for this are really meaty, like 3"X3/8" angle plus...
Should the TPH arms power down as well as up on the Long 445? Mine lift fine, but won't come down without some weight on them. This is my first real tractor so I don't know if this is normal. If it ain't, where should I look to clean/adjust/repair?
I just bought a UTB ( Long) 445 DT (4 WD) which has a FEL with spool controls in the cab, plus a single rear hydraulic Q/D outlet. I want to run a backhoer on this, which has two hydraulic pipes marked in & out. Assuming the "in" pipe is connected to the rear outlet, where should I connect the...
I just bought a UTB ( Long) 445 DT (4 WD) which has a FEL with spool controls in the cab, plus a single rear hydraulic Q/D outlet. I want to run a back actor on this which has two hydraulic pipes marked in & out. Assuming the "in" pipe is connected to the rear outlet, where should I connect the...
I just bought a UTB ( Long) 445 DT (4 WD) which has a FEL with spool controls in the cab, plus a single rear hydraulic Q/D outlet. I want to run a back actor on this which has two hydraulic pipes marked in & out. Assuming the "in" pipe is connected to the rear outlet, where should I connect the...