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Hello Renze, is there a coarse radiator for replacement in a 5211, my rad looks to be a fine mazed original and repaired many times, so if replacing it i would rather have the coarse.

rest ur feet on the floorboard and look down, its a cap with a slot in it, chk with engine off.

ggle and tube are rewarding these fools to bring traffic to their site, many good posters have left them, it makes honest hard working folks look very bad, and their trade.

are u sure the HNL range selector isnt being bumped when boarding/unboarding or during operation of the tractor, look at all the detent valves and springs on top plate, u may have to pull top plate off and look for worn damage inside, is the trans fluid contaminated/milky looking.

location of bleeder on 5211, with black cap behind lever, red arrow, and follow above procedure.

do you have the manuals [ service and parts ] ? if the tractor is in canada then the oil is incorrect for the climate. being that u installed new sleeves and pistons the engine will need to be broke-in before u get good compression #s, recheck the valve clearance as they may not be completely...

it should be npt [ national pipe thread ], found at any hardware store pipe/plumbing.

ive had to down several tree's, used it to clean up limbs, logs and debris, leaves, and smooth out several area's where fence post was removed, limbs and trunks up to @ 30" dia cut to manageable lengths and never broke a tine, my yard has many above ground tree roots to catch the tines but...

wouldn't expect anyone there to know, but its a good day for a road trip.

ive got the 7ft rake from TS and quite happy with, it hasn't broke yet, although some say i am trying.

very happy i dug thru the net and utube before i made a tractor decision, mine came in rough condition but am impressed with the way its overbuilt. they are a very impressive brand.

Not yet steve, rented the slide hammer and returned it before i smashed a finger :). but did try it, so am making a puller so i can do all three and keep all my fingers.

The forum has a Zetor section. check with brent or david @ ridgeway tractor parts https://ridgewaytractorparts.com/

no i haven't, only calls.

yep on ridgeway, good folks over there.

steve it was leaking from the cup to injector, i pulled the injector and cleaned it all up. yesterday i got a copy of the process to replace the cup, which is water cooled btw, so my post above was incorrect on the coolant, surprised my local hardware store had in-stock a 3/4" npt tap...

doesn't say where u are located, but get a manual, Zetor lot diff than most tractors.

anyone know what language that page uses ? maybe i could find an add-on so i could read it.

as far as i know its not water cooled, gona try and fab a coned attachment to pull it out with.

the #3 cyl head bushing/cup is allowing what looks like carbon and fuel to leak where the cup is mounted in the head, the service manual does not show how to remove/clean and install a new cup, very few Zetor's here in south ms so doubt a machine shop has any exp with replacing a cup. anyone...

if u feel everything above the trans cover is in the correct position then u will need to pull up the trans cover to identify the problem, if u don't have a parts and service manual then get one.

going from memory here, if not mistaken the output shaft at rear of tractor is engaged with the vertical shaft @ rear of trans, looks like output shaft if the plastic cover is missing which most are, its just forward of the seat pan.

heavily bloated is what i read into that article.

was metal shavings sent through the system ? the old hyd filter could hold a clue, either way a good flush of the bottom case should be done.

as stated in post 8 there is a section in manual for hyd service and testing, personally i haven't needed to use that section yet.

the plate is directly under the pto output shaft, there u will find the screen and magnet, when u drop the plate all the oil will not drain from the gear box, just a small amount. there is a troubleshooting section in the service manual, u will need a manual.

the parking brake Band adjustment rod can be seen through an opening under the seat pan, parts manual shows it as well.

this forum has a Zetor section, if ur tractor has a hand brake that uses a band then u will need to loosen the adjuster or remove it to get the final drive off, do u have the service and parts manual ?

get most of my parts here Tractor Parts for Zetor Tractors | Ridgeway Enterprises, amz also, some parts house filters dont have all the seals in their filters.

chk/replace your hyd filter under the starter, have u gotten the manuals yet ? there's a section for hyd circuit diagnostics, would be a good ideal to replace all filters on the tractor.

oh, the wiring can bring frustration, i pulled all new wiring through mine that i needed right away. when i first got it, it was in rough shape.

below the diff at bottom there is about a 10" plate that can be removed for access to the hyd screen and magnet, chk that first, carefull with silicone if gasket tears. these tractors love being worked hard, so it may clear up if been sitting a while.

the brake and clutch master cyl reservoir is under the hood so may want to chk the levels first, the brake master cylinder is behind the removable panel below the steering wheel, the brake rods to the brake master cyl are adjustable. the oil for the 3p lift, transmission and diff are all...

not familiar with the proxima 75, get the owners manual.

u should send out the injectors and have them tested, esp since all other work u have done, correct fuel system is just as important.

Thanks for reply, good to hear and hope the move goes well, please reply here when its up and running. (y)

anyone know what happened, cant get the page to load on any of my browsers, i know they have a FB page but i dont do FB.

anyone used ospho to kill or neutralize surface rust in prep for paint, what was the outcome ?

no often but at times i have to bleed the air from the fuel feed line at the injection pump, all lines/filters/copper washers/ and clamps are new all the way up to the motorpal injection pump, the old primer/fuel pump have been replaced with a holley red pump and also using a brass check valve...

have accomplished quite a bit since i got the tractor home, the front sheet metal had taken a beating and needed painting as well, but got the engine up and running, it also had a water leak into the trans and the steering was way sloppy, found out the steering need to be rebuilt and sealed...

Hello All picked up a 5211 that was well neglected and started to revive her, had a blown # 3 head gasket and block side freeze plug was mia so apparently it was pushed out during cold weather. as delivered to our place

Hello tbn members from the Ms Gulf Coast, happy to be aboard.