OP
Hexa Fox
Silver Member
Sorry if this was already mentioned but is there an easy way to determine if something is drawing from the battery when it is not suppose to be?
Ferris 810cc 26HP Vanguard Battery Constantly Dying?
DMW
Platinum Member
Ferris IS1500Z, replaced the key switch. Symptoms - Starter would only click when trying to start, after several dozen attempts it would start. Lost 2 keys out of the switch (old and new) when trimming around pines/cedars. Affixed lanyard to key attached to mower throttle.
Sure. The easiest way for you is to just unhook the regulator connector and do a wait and see. Or should you have a multimeter, you can remove the - battery terminal and put the leads between the post and a ground. I'm sure YouTube could be your friend here. But essentially you would be removing a connector at a time to help isolate an amp draw. I personally start with the regulator , but good practice is to break it in to chunks. So, if you have multiple fuses, pull one fuse and watch the meter.
That's one way or simply to unplug the 6 pin engine connector or other main connector another. You can move the switch from off to on and see if the draw remains when off, which could indicate a worn key switch- but don't turn to crank as it will likely pop the fuse in the meter.
OP
Hexa Fox
Silver Member
This is my issue. Mine does this exact same thing. You turn the key to start it and you hear the starter click but it does engage. It is especially noticeable if I realize that it isn't going to start and I need to let off the key to choke the mower. Usually if I give it some time or several attempts as you mention it will then engage.
I am seriously thinking about wiring a push button starter and toggle switch to my control board. That would be really convenient for me because of how often I need to turn the mower on and off. It would also eliminate the problem of stuff getting snagged on it like you mentioned which undoubtedly played a part in my ignition switches undoing. Watching people wire them sort of makes me uncomfortable though. Because it looks like you do have to leave the original wires intact and only tie into them to install the starter.
Thanks for the input!
anomad
Bronze Member
Did this start as an intermittent problem for you guys and get progressively worse? My SCAG has a Vanguard, less than 100 hours, it is about 50/50 whether it will light off or just click right now. Hasn't not started yet, just takes a few clicks sometimes.
gengine
Platinum Member
A fully charger 12v battery should test at 12.7v-12.9v. The charging system by way of the voltage regulator should be testing between 13 and 16 volts, dependant on what the battery needs. 16v seems high to me, but that's what I was taught in a class. Normal high to me is 14.5v. Anyway,
I'm betting your starter relay is giving you fits. They are inexpensive, but as they get older, they work great with fresh batteries, but when the battery gets a little age, the slightest voltage drop will make them fail. At my last job, I had a dozen on the shelf every spring, and usually ordered more. Over 12 years, I figured the one OE brand wasn't good, I'd try another. Turns out, all the OE are the same quality. I fixed my personal mower with a White-Rodgers relay, P/N 586-902. I also put the same relay on three different Ford Powerstroke trucks as a glow plug relay, because OE and aftermarket relays only last about a year. Two of those trucks had these on for 4-5 years before the truck was sold. The third truck is my father in laws, and it has been on there for 19 years. So after all that testimony, for ease, you can replace the original one with a like relay, Napa #7018611, around $35, or the other I listed for a little more, just may need a little mounting modification, but your wires should reach. A mower dealer may have one cheaper than Napa, I was buying OE direct from Husky, Ferris, Xmark etc. for around $15 and selling them at $17.
Cycledude
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2020
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- 1,473
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- Rib Lake Wisconsin
- Tractor
- LS XR4155, Ford 6610, Ford 8n
With less than 100 hours isn’t it still under warranty ?
Seems like maybe you should try to get your dealer to fix it under warranty.
anomad
Bronze Member
Good point. It is still under warranty. It is such a minor inconvenience at this point I haven't fooled with it. I should at least call the dealer and ask them what gives.
OP
Hexa Fox
Silver Member
To answer your original question I actually want to say it has gotten progressively worse. I kind of tuned it out because it is just a normal occurrence now, idiotically since it was not on my mind I failed to mention it here too. Having that said, it definitely seems to be getting worse. I get a loud click and after several times of trying it turns over no problem.
I'm not saying I disagree with @Cycledude because I do agree. I think if you have a problem like this you return it under warranty. However, if you say yours is only a mild inconvenience you may just want to leave it be. Sometimes you run into other problems when you take a piece of equipment back and ask someone to tear into it and chase the problem. I also don't know how much warranty you have left. My first choice when I was looking at commercial equipment was a Scag Tigercat or Cheetah. The dealers in my area were not very good and I ran into a Ferris dealer totally by accident and very glad I did. I think Ferris is hands down the most comfortable machine on the market. However, I think the Velocity decks easily cut the best on the market. That is why I decided on Scag as my first choice. I did a lot of research and the consensus seemed to be they had the nicest cut.
Update
My issue is getting weirder. I went out to mow today, Ferris started right up no problems, loaded onto the trailer. The battery could have been a little weak since I haven't been using it a whole lot but it started up without getting jumped. Mowed about two full acres and the PTO switch started acting up again. Got off the mower to move something, get back on and the blades will not engage. I investigated. I messed around with the RPMS and when they were low and the PTO was engaged there was a pretty loud humming sound and I could clearly see the belt was trying to move. Tried many times, could not get the blades to engage at all. Loaded it back onto the trailer and turned it off fearing the worst and fear justified as Ferris would not turn started. Jumped it, it died again while finishing up and yeah that is about it.
It is also worth mentioning that I have not been actively checking the voltage either. I don't keep a multimeter with me on the truck so it makes it difficult. I have a hunch that the battery is now failing due to the draw from what I am now guessing is the key switch.
I guess what I am doing now is trying to get it through the season. I would really like to install a push button starter and an on/off switch where the light toggle switch goes.
To me, it would seem there is an issue pulling power @ the starter solenoid. Normally at the same + terminal from the battery on the solenoid, there is a feed off the same lug which goes to a fuse block. Poor supply or a ground for that matter can keep your starter solenoid from actually firing as well as running your PTO clutch. It is assumed that a PTO clutch will fire @ 10-11 VDC, but will it hold.
Does your mower have an actual fuse block? I've been down that road before where the block itself is defective. Should you want to share more thoughts, post the full MTC from the Briggs and and the model / serial of the chassis.
Does your mower have an actual fuse block? I've been down that road before where the block itself is defective. Should you want to share more thoughts, post the full MTC from the Briggs and and the model / serial of the chassis.
