Replacement metal roof....best method

   / Replacement metal roof....best method #21  
After quite a bit of scouring, I found a used roofing machine on Craigslist. Shipped to me down from Alaska.

View attachment 849856

So next summer will be about learning to make roofing.

This is an older type of crimped standing seam. While there may be some options to change patterns, it may well be orphaned by the manufacturer.

Most of the newer roofing is a snap lock standing seam. I'd imagine that my crimped standing seam will be very waterproof, but would be a bear to repair if that is ever needed.


That custom roof over the machine is very cool too!!
 
   / Replacement metal roof....best method #22  
metal screws seem to have about a 10 year life span before heat and UV exposure makes them start leaking.

I beg to differ on this one. I’ve got some screws I put on a purloin metal roof from 1990 ish . I pulled that old garage down in 2018 and aside from some minor surface rust they were fine. The seals had no cracking and were still soft.
i wouldn’t use them on a house but they are still there waiting for the next shed I build. These were plain galvanized with a plain unpainted galvanized roof.
As is the case with many things, not all screws are created equal. I have seen screws like what you've described. I've also seen ones that had failing washers after 3-4 years.
 
   / Replacement metal roof....best method #23  
I have metal roofs on several barns and outbuildings. I would not put the standard imperial type roof with exposed fasteners on a house. My barns have a few drips from screw penetration when it rains real hard. No big deal on a barn. You definitely don't want that happening in your house. I would go hidden fastener standing seam or hidden fastener metal shingles.

I looked at standing seam when I re-roofed my log home in 2020. Got 3 estimates at around $45K. Ended up going with 50 year asphalt shingles for $16K. FYI, you can buy standing seam roofing cut to exact length from the metal roof companies. So it can be a DIY project.
 
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   / Replacement metal roof....best method #24  
I hate ribbed metal roofing. People brag about how long it last and maybe it does but it tends to fade and look awful pretty fast. The screws don’t hold up either and cause leaks. Standing seam roof is a different beast but it’s cost far exceeds regular ribbed metal.
 
   / Replacement metal roof....best method #25  
Shout out for standing seams.

Our buildings are 102 years old, we just replaced the barn roof about a year or two ago. Microburst took out a section by the silo. Could not replace that one section, so the whole roof went. Only two boards on the entire structure were replaced, the ones by the silo damage.

Milk House, still original. got someone to patch the hole where I took the chimney out. Just needs a fresh coat of paint. Guy did a really nice job, old school he said, the best.
 
   / Replacement metal roof....best method #26  
if a screw is over tighten and the seal stretch and get squish + expose it is normal its life will end prematurely.
 
   / Replacement metal roof....best method
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#27  
Oh . . . and about the metal that looks like shingles or tiles . . . That stuff is aluminum and has a dense foam backing that goes on under it. (Not separately -- each "shingle" is made with this foam backing attached to it so they're installed as one unit.) It's the foam backing that gives it enough strength that you can walk on it. Without that it would just cave in / dent under your weight. It was about twice the cost of regular standing-seam metal.

Im talking about steel shingles, not whatever you referenced
 
   / Replacement metal roof....best method #28  
That custom roof over the machine is very cool too!!
The photo was taken in Seattle, 300 miles away. I added a couple of extra straps just in case it wasn't a 70 MPH roof. But, overall it held up well for the trip home.

The roof has 2 shackles on top for easy removal.

Overall the roof is handy, however a roof without walls lets too much condensation into the machine. Apparently some of the rollers need cleaned up a bit, so I'll probably have to do some tear down this spring.

I'm also learning that things like metal coils are heavier than I had otherwise imagined. And I'll have to figure out how to deal with trim work.
 
   / Replacement metal roof....best method #29  
I'm an old guy, and like to keep nomenclature straight. Very little standing seam is done any more, because it requires a tinner to solder all the joints. What people call standing seam is actually concealed fastener lock seam. It's good roofing. I used it on my shop.

I'm also a lazy guy. I would cover the existing 3-tab with 1/4" foil faced foam core board. It comes in either rolls or accordion pack, and will keep condensation off the wood framing. It will also keep the shingles from printing through the metal.
 
   / Replacement metal roof....best method #30  
Thinking of metal roofing, I've seen galvanized corrugated roofing that was perhaps 100 years old, and often in really bad shape. Although it is generally thicker than the modern stuff.

On the other hand, we built my parent's barn around 1980, so just shy of 45 years old. Dad decided that galvanized + painted would be better than just galvanized.

Cosmetically the metal is still good, albeit a little faded. Some of the fiberglass has gotten old, and I've had to replace with polycarbonate.

I think it was done with gasketed nails. And possibly nailed at the peaks of the ribs.

It has A LOT OF DRIPS. What I don't know is whether it is dripping at the nails or it is condensation, or a combination of the two.

It does leave me a bit leery of doing exposed fasteners on roofing, even for a barn. And, a new barn would be foamed.

Closed Cell Spray foam would be nice, but the technology wasn't ready at the time and we didn't do it. Nonetheless, that might hit structural defects.
 
 
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