Recent content by TractorTech

Typically, the cylinder is installed on the left and the manual adjusting link is left on the right, but it does not matter other than the length and routing of your hoses.

I know it is a mess in the front bolster, but are you sure it isn't the steering cylinder, valve or line?

That is what I was looking at originally. It belongs to a neighbor and he said he had a blown 5 amp fuse, but didn't know which one as he took them all out to test at his shop. He replaced the fuse, but no luck. When I arrived, I started to check the fuses, but he said he replaced the bad one...

The seal kit from Yesterday's Tractors is forvthe injectors, not the pump. As you know, it is either the injection pump or mechanical lift pump. Did you try replacing the lift pump? $250 is not a bad price to reseal that pump, but find out what 'reseal' means. If it is the injection pump...

I have a 2021 2960E with about 122 hours on it. It ran fine a couple of days ago. I went to start today and it just cranked. The electric pump is working and has plenty of fuel down to the pump. No codes showing. The fuel cutoff doesn't seem to be opening. Any help would be great.

That is a very old FWD axle and many parts are obsolete. You might try a tractor wrecking yard and look for Case 1594, 1690, Ford 455, 455C/D, 550, 555, 555A/B and 655, 655A with FWD for a good used part.

@Harry in Ky as far as the hose goes, you are right, it probably would work fine. If you look at the hoses where they go into the case, the fittings are choked down even more. That would cause the restriction to flow. I agree with the pickup tube being a possible problem and over filling would...

Navel jelly, petroleum jelly? Would be fine. Or, use the grease you are going to use in the gearcase

R3s are turf/diamond tred, R4 is industrial flat bar type tred similar to what you have in the R1 ag tred, but with shallower and wider bars. You could try 15" front tires, or like I said, a 26" rear turf

Rough spots are what is stopping it and sanding the shaft would be fine. Smoothing it out is what you want. Any kind of lubricant would help in assembly and would not hurt anything longrun. I didn't see the dirtcap. The tolerance between the inside of that and the ridge/ring that the bearing...

That picture reminded me of a story my dad told about being on the farm in WW2 with gas being rationed. TOur cousin had a Model T and he took a bunch of copper tubing, wrapped it around the muffler and ran it on diesel. It smoked like crazy, but diesel wasn't rationed on the farm

Interesting tire choice for a road department tractor. What size are your fronts now? The 16.9x24 is 51" diameter/25" radius, while the 12.4x38s are 60" diameter/30" radius approximately so you are dropping 5" lower. There are smaller tire/wheel combinations that might get you what you want...

Welcome to TBN! The best all around turf tire for the rear of that size tractor is a 16.9x24, R3. It is a popular size that gives good flotation and traction. Most of the old Ford skiploaders (tractor loader industrial) used 16.9x24, R4, so if you have a used tractor yard nearby, you could use...

The leak is coming from the steering motor under the dash. Most leaks come from there or the cylinder. The lines to and from the pump and cooler don't normally have a problem

The locking collar and the inner race of the bearing are still there as you suspect. A cutting torch will take those both off easily, but if you don't have one, a propane, preferably a MAP gas torch can be used to heat both pieces to a orange, red color, then cooled to loosen them up to beat off...