Recent content by toot77

I believe the front axle configuration of a 1920 is similar to other NH Shibaura tractors. On my 1520, that seal is a two piece seal / sleeve assembly and when you disassemble the front knuckle, the inner sleeve portion will likely stay on the upper casting while the outer part will stay in the...

You might take a look at the bottom of the tractor about in the middle just behind where the front axle driveshaft comes out.. There is a bolt that looks like it might be a drain plug, except that it has a hole through the center that has a cotter pin through it. If hydraulic oil is dripping...

Actually it has been about 130 hours, but as I mentioned above, the bevel gears in my tractors are not precision ground, the gear teeth may not be ground at all, as shown on this photo of an upper bevel gear borrowed from Messick's site; These gears are putting metal into the oil. Over...

I just replaced both of these seals on my 1520 at 3650 hours for the second time. First time was well under 1000 hours. The seal is a multi-piece seal/sleeve assembly so the pitting on the knuckle casting is not a problem. OP's photos show part of the seal still on the knuckle casting. I...

The relay (SBA385230220) referenced in the OP's question does not carry starting motor current. SBA385230220 is commonly referred to as a safety start or neutral start relay. The NO contacts of this relay is in series with the ignition switch which energizes the starter solenoid. The coil of...

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You can replace that relay with a standard 12 volt automotive relay, but you also need to replace the socket with one for the standard auto relay. Get a std relay with a harness. This is less than $10 on Amazon. You need to remove the wire pigtails from the new relay socket. Then remove the...

1) Clutch Pedal pressed down and the 2 pto's both disengaged? 2) Battery or bad connections? check the ground cable down on the frame under the battery. 3) Neutral start relay, this is mounted to the front of the 'firewall' and must be energized. this relay is energized by the 3 switches...

Could be a tube o-ring, but when my 1520 had this leak, it was a shaft seal on the hydrostat unit. I split the tractor myself and took the hydrostat unit to a hydraulic shop to be repaired.

Update; I ordered a .060" shim and while waiting to it to arrive, I did some crude measuring and learned that the detent spring has about 0.44" travel between full length and full compressed length. Some more crude measuring gave an estimated travel for the cone of up to 0.47" to compress...

Yes that is what I meant, black means diesel motor oil which would be a rear main seal

I know this is an older post, but my 1520 did have this problem (oil leaking from the bolt head with the cotter pin) back in 2013 & 2014. It started as a drip and over about a year, it slowly got worse, then one day it got a lot worse. I split the tractor, removed the hydrostat pump/motor...

Some added info from what I said above,,, My NH service manual for my 715B snowblower includes a section for the 702C front blade. My manual is a late 90's version and covers these attachments for the 20 series compact tractors (1320, 1520, etc). The TC30 would be the same as a 1520 as far...

I do not know whether your parts are correct, but to find out quickly, the front frame piece in your photo is obviously the under mount frame. The 2 arms pointing up on the left in your photo attach to your tractors frame immediately behind the front bumper. You will see where the 2 holes...

Seeing as how there was a change in the crankcase venting after serial number 3000, it would help to know what side of that your tractor is on. As mentioned before, pre-s/n3000 just has a vent tube from the valve cover down the side of the engine towards the ground, essentially a road draft...