Recent content by Modrob

I really hate being “cheap”…honestly. But it’s gotten worse as I’ve aged. I try my best to wring out every possible inch of life in anything we have (frustrating many times and lots of muttered 4-letter words LOL) and the wife just says “throw it away and we’ll get a new one…” 🤪 I can’t let go...

On a side note—I had seen a video on how to get more life out of sidewall cracks (mind you this is NOT for highway use) so I gave it a try. Transmission fluid. Brushed liberally on the sidewalls. Seems like it helped some, but…I think it only helps for one or two applications…just my opinion on...

All good points…yes that mess inside a tire—we had a lawn tractor that had a decent leak, so I experimented with the foam trick, since I’d had some success with that on a dual-tired wheelbarrow. This time, it wasn’t so pretty. So still dealing with a half-flat many times, I ordered some new...

Opinions please. Previous owner put turf tread tires on our 425 (23 x 10.50-12)…hardly any tread wear but cracking in sidewalls, and a couple have slow leaks. Last time I bought a new tube for a lawn tractor (good brand I thought) it came apart real easily…new tires are quite expensive… Thoughts? 😊

On my Kohler CH25s, I have the analog SAM ignition… If a battery connection is loose (as in just put the cable end onto the post and pushed down slightly) can it cause an intermittent miss/stumble etc.? After much work on the motor recently I had just put the battery cables on, but forgot to...

Once again, a hearty thank you to you fellers for hanging with me, and guiding my efforts. I might be making some headway in getting all our equipment back to running again! (Oh yea—I’m still trying to get the yard spot prepped for artificial turf, lay the turf, then build the Adventureland...

This afternoon between a CH25 PDF service manual, a test light and some short cables, I got the new switch to work. All functions now good. I had spliced in some longer wires to make it easier to work with—tonight I’m going to pull most of them and redo, so I can mount the switch in the console...

Good point Peter. Thanks for that. Evidently that was the issue with the old switch…in trying to determine which pins correlated with switch positions I kept getting different results. Then found the “static” inside the switch. So now I have a replacement “universal” mower switch (same 5 tabs...

Actually I think the switch is done for as well—a meter on it last night showed all kinds of “static” or shorting, and wiggling the key really acted up…

For sure! What a mess…I keep telling the wife, “I’m thinking it’s time for one of those new mid-size diesel tractors!” LOL

Well…how about this—it’s fixed! Today I went back and double checked everything, and then pulled the carb and went through it again. Back together and fired it up. Voila! Runs like a champ! So… I put the bucket back on and head down the hill in the front yard to move dirt from a huge pile…worked...

Also, I will test again for spark. Another thing comes to mind…just before I pulled the head, rods and rockers, I hand cranked it trying to get my finger/thumb over the spark port to check for compression…I wasn’t able to get my finger contorted enough to get a good “feel” but it didn’t seem...

Well, another day and no cure. Received the new coil and went to install. Right away it appeared slightly different from the original (yes it is a cheap aftermarket) but mainly the frame legs appeared a little too long to clear the flywheel magnet. Thinking “it’s a cheapie anyway so if I ruin...

Yes, I put in another new plug—no difference in running but didn’t hook the tester back up again…

Last night, I did pull the kill wire off the affected side coil—no change. But now I believe I need to verify that if there are diodes in this kill wire circuit I need to test them…see a couple more videos on that….