How to chain up the tractor?

[bill18163]

I bought my first flat bed trailer after reading many posts on this board. I think I have everything thought out except for one thing that I am curious about. I read the post from the person that had new straps break because of the trailer flexing on bumps in the road. Obviously there is a lot of dynamic load on a strap or chain when a trailer flexes with a load on it. It makes me ask a question of where to fasten my chains on the tractor. That dynamic loading is still there on those chains even though they may not break like a strap. Has anyone ever had something bent on their tractor because of this "loading"? Where are the best points on a tractor to attach the chains so that any dynamic loading will not hurt the machine? Or am I worrying about this too much?

 

[gordon21]

Use the axles. Do NOT use attach points such as the 3PT arms, implements attached to the tractor , loader arms, steps, weight brackets, etc

Use four chains and four chain ratchet binders with grade 70 chain. The difference between cheap chain and grade 70 is probably less than $20 for a typical tractor & trailer combo hauling a compact tractor.

Always loop your chain down through the stake pocket and then back up to hang vertically on the stake pocket. This way, if the chain ever loosened a little bit, gravity will keep it in place and your load safe. If not, you run the chance of the chain completely coming loose.

 

[6or7dazeaweek]

I paid particular attention to how the dealer tied down my tractor when it was delivered.

They used a clevis, ran it thru the chain and inserted the clevis into an empty bolt hole in the frame...then used a ratchet tightener on the chain.

I don't know if this is the best way of doing it but that's the way the dealer did it.

By the way, I purchased some pretty hefty axle straps at tsc PRIOR to delivery of my machine. I'm not sure which approach I'll use when I transport it....certainly don't like the idea of straps stretching or breaking.

Jon

 

[MarkStewart]

I can't see any of the commercial sized straps breaking unless they are allowed to come in contact with a part of the machine that would cut or fray the material of the strap.

Still I'm thinking the DOT wants chain and binders on machinery. That's what I use when I'm hauling equiptment. But for a compact tractor I think the straps would be adequate if routed , and protected from freying, cutting etc.

Anyways it would be best to check the regulations on the DOT site or ask a DOT cop.

 

[AlanB]

I just changed around the way we secure our 1925 (Predecessor to a TC 33 or so)

I leave two clevis's hanging in the front frame corners, under the radiator, and chain too them for the front. One chain to each corner.

In the back I used to run one chain through the draw bar, side to side and back a bit on the trailer. (Yes, I know the rules)

Found and picked up some more clevis's (or would that be Clev I) and have an open hole on each lower three point arm. I install and remove the clevis there. and tie back to the trailer from there.

I know folks say tie to the axle etc. not the three point, but come on, that thing is held on with 7/8" pins, if they give up, I think my 3/8" chain would have long before given up the ghost.

I also went in on my trailer and welded in lengths of chain along the tie down rails. This lets me reach down with my load binder (I just swithced over to ratcheting instead of cam over for the wife) and hook directly there, no muss, no fuss.

 

[gordon21]

If you will only haul one tractor on the same trailer all the time, then you can customize with clevis, welded brackets and custom length chains like AlanB suggests. You could get your loading and tie down process to just under 5 minutes. It would sorta be like loading a boat with custom tie downs all mounted in just the right places and with just the right length straps.

If you do use the web straps, slip a 2' piece of fire hose or old radiator hose over the web strap whever it touchs metal. A metal edge does not have to be sharp to fray web straps.

Don't forget to paint the trailer in your tractors colors for a matching rig.

 

[Willl]

Those w/ hoes, do you let 'em bounce on the lock pin or lower 'em to the trailer deck ?

If you lower it to the deck, do you strap/chain it?

 

[gordon21]

I lock the boom with the pin to prevent left to right movement, but I do drop the bucket to the deck against the front rails and chain it down also. This is in addition to the four chains at each corner.

 

[George2615]

gordon21's picture drawing #2 is correct but if you have a long enough chain why not continue through the stake pocket and hook the chain back onto itself. The tie down method I use is to go through the stake pocket / or D-ring and back up with one end. The other end of the chain goes over the tractor front frame then I connect the two chain ends with a ratchet binder. Same scenario on back, 1 chain and binder at each corner of tractor plus any implements

 

[Highbeam]

"The tie down method I use is to go through the stake pocket / or D-ring and back up with one end. The other end of the chain goes over the tractor front frame then I connect the two chain ends with a ratchet binder."

When you take up the slack in the chain does the chain not need to be able to slide along the stake pocket and tractor? With this method the chain tension only needs to be half since you are doubling your pull. I suppose we all tighten to 'good-n-tite'.

I do like Gordon21 with the stake pockets. So far they have not been deformed by the tension. I was at first worried that I would need to weld big old d-rings to the trailer frame but was assured that the stake pockets are quite strong. So far so good.

 

[George2615]

Highbeam,
I originally used the stake pockets but like you say as the chain binders were tightened the chain could not slide very well through the pocket. Mainly as it tightened the part of the chain that moved was the part going around the tractor frame which is round. I have since welded on D-rings which allow the chain to move as it is tightened. I have not added D-rings to my gooseneck yet and still use the pockets but I still go through the pocket and hook one end of the chain back on itself then hook the ratchet binder to the other end of the chain and to a link above the hook by the stake pocket.
By the way, I haven't been following the thread on your loader stress cracks. How you making out with that?

 

[Highbeam]

On the cracks, I am still waiting for the release of the official Kioti repair/upgrade to my loader. I was given a three month timeframe. In the meantime I am using the loader like loaders should be used. Thanks for asking.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Use the axles. Do NOT use attach points such as the 3PT arms, implements attached to the tractor , loader arms, steps, weight brackets, etc

Use four chains and four chain ratchet binders with grade 70 chain. The difference between cheap chain and grade 70 is probably less than $20 for a typical tractor & trailer combo hauling a compact tractor.

Always loop your chain down through the stake pocket and then back up to hang vertically on the stake pocket. This way, if the chain ever loosened a little bit, gravity will keep it in place and your load safe. If not, you run the chance of the chain completely coming loose.

Read specifics in Fed. regs, and MOST state regs. They require SEPERATE chains/tie-downs on implemements, loaders, back hoes, even if they are PERMANENTLY attached to a tractor.

Chains on the tractor must pull towards 4 corners, but UNLESS tractor(and attached implements/loader/back hoe) is over 10,000lbs, 4 SEPERATE chains aren't required. 2 will do.(to meet legal requirements. SAFTEY suggest's 4 is better)

 

[rback33]

Like FWJ said under 10,000 4 are SUGGESTED.. however.. after reading the thread about nasty wrecks..it reminded me someone can take out one binder and leave 75% of my tie down points... with only two your are down 50% even if only one corner is hit... I also put a half-hitch type thing in when looping up to the trailer railing to lock the chain down....

 

[schmism]

We used 4 vehical straps (The thick 2.5" ones) and 4 axle straps.

1 strap at each corner around the axles.

 

[RobertN]

Like FWJ said under 10,000 4 are SUGGESTED..

Depends on where you are. Always check your state regs. Some time ago I contacted CHP; here in Calif they want to see four chain/binder or straps, plus additional on the back hoe, loader, ect.

Better to talk to law enforcement before, not after, you get a ticket

 

[billfires]

On my NH 1920 with loader & backhoe I attatch a chain and load binder to the front weight bracket on each side (tried using only 1 binder and the other side was kept under tension) and then to stake pockets. In the rear there is a clevis mounted through the drawbar and a single chain and load binder goes from one side to another.
I leave the backhoe in the up position with the boom lock pin in (prevents side to side movement) and the other lock to keep the boom from settling down. Bill C

 

[gordon21]

I will insist on FOUR seperate chains for the corners. If you use one chain at each end and tie to each corner, what happens if the rear chain fails or loosen?? You will suddenly find yourself with one chain holding the front axle from going BACKWARDS. That would be no help in a sudden braking situation. If you buy a 20' chain and use it around the rear axle and tie to both corners, you can double your safety factor at no cost by cutting it in half and tying TWO 10' chains at two seperate corners.

Others have pointed out my error in "suggesting" another chain specifically for the backhoe. You should definitely use the fifth chain if you have an attched backhoe.

 

[RobertN]

I will insist on FOUR seperate chains for the corners.

Others have pointed out my error in "suggesting" another chain specifically for the backhoe. You should definitely use the fifth chain if you have an attched backhoe.

Four chains, binders, plus an extra set to go across the loader and/or hoe. What, $150-$200 or so?

My Kubota B8200 is 20 years old, but still a $8000 or so tractor. My trailer is a couple years old; cost $1600 out the door. My truck is 5 years old; cost $32k back when but is still a $20k replacement now. My wife, kid, and not to forget the people in the community around me are invaluable.

What's $150 extra in chain and binders? Based on $29600 of replacemnt value for my basic equipment, $200 worth of chain and binder is 0.006%.

Y'all aint making an error with some extra chain.

 

[MarEng]

I haul a Branson 3510 w/ BH and FEL on a 16' flat bed. My dad works for Texas DOT so in the beginning we used their requirements - one chain/binder per corner and one on each implement. Since Dad is not always around I do admit to cutting corners somewhat.

I usually pull the tractor on nose first - balances better that way - and drop the FEL to the deck and put it against the forward rail. I put one chain side to side at the front over the frame extension/push bar. This chain leads forward slightly holding the machine on the trailer and pushing the bucket against the forward rail. I do not chain the FEL bucket down. Back aft I run two chains from the main axle/ROPS connection lug on each side (chain is wrapped around the axle) to each corner of the trailer, with a binder on each. In this configuration the BH hangs off the back of the trailer if left centered. I swing the hoe to the driver's side - so I can see it while towing - and bottom it out and place it against the side rail. I then use the slack loop from the left side after chain and wrap the hoe bucket and attach it to the rail upright - this keeps the BH from swinging and keeps the bucket on the deck. I don't have the luxury of pinning the BH as the pins are a casualty of my Dad's garage - not that I could and still keep the BH on the deck.

It goes without saying that the tractor e-brake is set and the machine is left in gear.

I tow only locally and on familiar back roads. If I have to get on the interstate I put two chains on the front axle, both wrapped around the axle. The chains cross under the tractor to get a better lead, i.e. the chain around the left side axle goes to the right side of the trailer.