DEF for new truck

[LouNY]

An Ecodiesel?

Nothing seems to work on those. (Sorry, couldn't resist).

I have regretted trading that truck in many times, traded with 98,000 miles on it with minimal problems. But all the hype had me nervous and my extended warranty expired at 100,000. So I traded up to a fancy 2019 1500 with the 5.7 which did a good job for me. I never did really enjoy that V8 compared to the little diesel V6. So this past summer I bought a 2022 2500 with the Cummins in it and I back to enjoying low rpm torque and driveability of the diesel. I am well past the time that I wanted engines that made HP at high rpms.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Or on my 2015 1500

Good for you! Isn't the failure rate about 20% on those engines?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Well if he’s had it since 2015 (11 years) it must work pretty well.

I know someone who is positively engulfed in the Ecodiesel cult, and has three of them.

Yet even he admits that they have a very high failure rate, needs to be tuned to last longer/survive, and has had numerous problems with his, mostly emissions related. Even when he had "only" two he wanted to buy a crate engine to have a spare ready.

I don't remember the numbers, but all the warranty work on them has cost Ram dearly.

 

[JK22]

That's interesting. Not that I've ever wasted money on the Platinum version, but your DEF quality sensor must be quite picky.

And for what it's worth, '16 and older Rams can supposedly have the DEF diluted with distilled water. They claimed it'd work on a '17, too. It didn't on mine.

It was the only thing available at the gas station that I stopped at. I did find it pretty odd. My sensor does seem very picky. I'd get rid of the whole DPF system if I could. DPF system will certainty die long before the engine ever does.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

It was the only thing available at the gas station that I stopped at. I did find it pretty odd.

Maybe it was plenty old because nobody had wanted to pay extra for the designer DEF?

 

[WinterDeere]

I have regretted trading that truck in many times, traded with 98,000 miles on it with minimal problems.

I end up trading every truck with fewer miles than that, anymore! Rust takes them, long before mileage or mechanical problems, given how heavily they salt the roads these days. I'd think it must be even worse in NY than in PA?

Rust rarely creates a serious safety issue on a full-frame truck, that's more of a unibody problem. But it leaves me with two other problems:

1. Stupid little stuff starts breaking, like parking brake cable brackets, etc.
2. The vehicle starts to look so ratty that I can't very well show up to a customer meeting in it, without them questioning who they're doing business with.

 

[LouNY]

I end up trading every truck with fewer miles than that, anymore! Rust takes them, long before mileage or mechanical problems, given how heavily they salt the roads these days. I'd think it must be even worse in NY than in PA?

Rust rarely creates a serious safety issue on a full-frame truck, that's more of a unibody problem. But it leaves me with two other problems:

1. Stupid little stuff starts breaking, like parking brake cable brackets, etc.
2. The vehicle starts to look so ratty that I can't very well show up to a customer meeting in it, without them questioning who they're doing business with.

I have been using an under coating product for the last several years. The best I have used has been a product called WaxOyl it is sprayed on all available metal areas and inside most of the cavities. That combined with an unlimited car wash pass has decreased the amount of rusting on my vehicles.
Going clear back to my 2002 Dodge Dakota which I kept on the road to 2013 with no visible rust and a decent under carriage.
This year I went with a different material a Woolwax, I know the 2022 was protected with some type of a soft set material, which is similar to this wool wax. I would have preferred the WaxOly but tried this for this winter and I'm not sure how well the other products would have adhered to what was on it.

 

[GSVette]

[emoji6][emoji6][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]]" data-quote="GSVette" data-source="post: 0" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">

Oosik,

It’s too late now but are you aware the Power Wagon will have the HO Cummins in it in [emoji[emoji6]]? You lose the front winch due to the added weight of the diesel but will have all the other Power Wagon doodads.

I’ll be picking up my [emoji6][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]] Laramie Night Edition long bed on Monday. It’ll be a significant step up in features and power from my [emoji[emoji6][emoji6]] [emoji6][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji6][emoji6]] Big Horn!!

 

[Stu Cozza]

My new truck ( Ram 3500 ) is diesel. So - DEF is also in the picture. However - there is SUCH a wide range of prices between different brands. Examples ...... Kleen DEF - $56/ 2.5 gal. Blue DEF - $17/ 2.5 gal. For those of you, in the know. Is this price difference justified?

I was told the regular BlueDEF is more than adequate as long as it is of recent manufacture. I used the "BlueDEF Platinum" once and cannot state whether or not it is any better. Some claim it "cleans" the tank, pump, and sensor... maybe it does, but I never looked.

Speaking of DEF and related stuff, my (2022) Ram 3500 with ~23,000 miles is at the shop awaiting the arrival of a "DEF Driver module" - I did not even know such a part existed, but it is to arrive early next week. The problem began as just an issue, but then became a problem. My DEF gauge read ~3/8 so I added a jug (2.5 gallons) and drove the truck... the gauge did not rise. The dealer shop changed the pump/sensor unit, but that did not help. Fortunately, they are keeping me apprised of their progress with this.

 

[DennisfromCincy]

I spend about $10 on DEF Blue and only fill it when it asks for it. DEF does near freeze so I only add 2.5 gals. Mine is a 2015 2500HD and the fill is under the hood before GM wised up and followed Ford and put the fill on the bed side. I use the fill spout on the container, and it works fine.

Under warranty they did have to replace the DEF tank and associated components (leaking) - cost was about $1800. I had an extended warranty when I purchased the truck new. The truck was about 7 years old when that happened.
I still like this truck.

Just adding --- on plastic recycling I only recycle 1 and 2. Plastic grocery bags go back to Kroger or Walmart.

 

[jaydee325]

Kleen DEF - $56/ 2.5 gal. Blue DEF - $17/ 2.5 gal.

That must be a typo on the Kleen DEF. It's on sale right now at my local big box store for $7.00/ 2.5 gal, plus there is a $2.00 rebate. It's all I use.

By the way, Kleen DEF is made by the same manufacturer as DEF Blue, Old World Industries. Even has the same date code format.

https://www.owi.com/retail/brands/bluedef/diesel-exhaust-fluid/kleendef-diesel-exhaust-fluid-2.5-gal

It's all in the marketing.

 

[WinterDeere]

Kleen DEF is made by the same manufacturer as DEF Blue, Old World Industries. Even has the same date code format.

https://www.owi.com/retail/brands/bluedef/diesel-exhaust-fluid/kleendef-diesel-exhaust-fluid-2.5-gal

It's all in the marketing.

Are you implying it's the same product, or just two products that happen to be made by the same company? Most companies make more than one variant, of a type.

 

[TimberFarm]

I know someone who is positively engulfed in the Ecodiesel cult, and has three of them.

Yet even he admits that they have a very high failure rate, needs to be tuned to last longer/survive, and has had numerous problems with his, mostly emissions related. Even when he had "only" two he wanted to buy a crate engine to have a spare ready.

I don't remember the numbers, but all the warranty work on them has cost Ram dearly.

Wife's Eco is a 2018. Turned 100,000 a couple months ago. Bone stock. Like I said earlier, as flawless as a Honda Accord.
The whole key to that engine is to get it up to operating temperature. It is not meant for the 5 mile ride to anywhere.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

The whole key to that engine is to get it up to operating temperature. It is not meant for the 5 mile ride to anywhere.

That's probably a big part of it, as it is for any engine. Five miles is what EVs are for.

Also, many think that getting the coolant up to temp is enough, in real life it's the oil temp that counts. I've made a cover for the oil cooler on my Challenger to get warm - even though it's never driven less than 20 miles.

 

[neilpaku]

I have been using an under coating product for the last several years. The best I have used has been a product called WaxOyl it is sprayed on all available metal areas and inside most of the cavities. That combined with an unlimited car wash pass has decreased the amount of rusting on my vehicles.
Going clear back to my 2002 Dodge Dakota which I kept on the road to 2013 with no visible rust and a decent under carriage.
This year I went with a different material a Woolwax, I know the 2022 was protected with some type of a soft set material, which is similar to this wool wax. I would have preferred the WaxOly but tried this for this winter and I'm not sure how well the other products would have adhered to what was on it.

You made a good choice with Woolwax. I've been treating my vehicles for ten years now and I live in Rochester NY so plenty of salt. I've sampled FluidFilm and WaxOyl and they are good products but I prefer Woolwax because, not having any solvents in it (it's straight lanolin), it will stick for longer under worse conditions, which is to say, the underside of the vehicle and behind the wheel spray. It is best to apply in the heat of summer. It's hydrophobic so it will reject water from whereever it goes and it seals from the air, which effectively stops any rust that is already there. It creeps so in summer when it's hot, it'll creep along all the seams and joints giving good coverage. It'll even go uphill. The only place that has to be retreated periodically (I do every five years) is the underside of the vehicle so it's cheap and fast to do - 1/2gal ($30) and about 30 mins. It won't burn so I've applied it to my exhaust pipes and manifolds on my '26 F350. It'll smoke and smell like sheep for a while : ) but it's a small price to pay for no rust, even in our climate. It also remains soft and doesn't interfere with being able to undo nuts and bolts (kind of like grease consistency) and it won't chip and hold water between it and the body. I used the colorless version (straw) so it's pretty much invisible. This was what I wished I'd done with my '06 F350 which is now a rust bucket but I did get 20 years out of it. Still runs perfectly and the interior is pristine and passes inspections. The other thing I did was get a really good carnauba wax for everything that wasn't Woolwaxed - P2S. I can almost hose the truck clean as if it was hand-washed.

 

[LouNY]

You made a good choice with Woolwax. I've been treating my vehicles for ten years now and I live in Rochester NY so plenty of salt. I've sampled FluidFilm and WaxOyl and they are good products but I prefer Woolwax because, not having any solvents in it (it's straight lanolin), it will stick for longer under worse conditions, which is to say, the underside of the vehicle and behind the wheel spray. It is best to apply in the heat of summer. It's hydrophobic so it will reject water from whereever it goes and it seals from the air, which effectively stops any rust that is already there. It creeps so in summer when it's hot, it'll creep along all the seams and joints giving good coverage. It'll even go uphill. The only place that has to be retreated periodically (I do every five years) is the underside of the vehicle so it's cheap and fast to do - 1/2gal ($30) and about 30 mins. It won't burn so I've applied it to my exhaust pipes and manifolds on my '26 F350. It'll smoke and smell like sheep for a while : ) but it's a small price to pay for no rust, even in our climate. It also remains soft and doesn't interfere with being able to undo nuts and bolts (kind of like grease consistency) and it won't chip and hold water between it and the body. I used the colorless version (straw) so it's pretty much invisible. This was what I wished I'd done with my '06 F350 which is now a rust bucket but I did get 20 years out of it. Still runs perfectly and the interior is pristine and passes inspections. The other thing I did was get a really good carnauba wax for everything that wasn't Woolwaxed - P2S. I can almost hose the truck clean as if it was hand-washed.

I'm still liking the WaxOly a bit better, but we shall see as time goes on.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Been curious for quite a while, just not enough to call NHOU and ask.

Their product is oil based as I understand it and gets sprayed on everything, including all rubber bushings.

To me that's similar to spraying tire goop and having some end up on the rotors - it just can't be good for the bushings and brakes.

 

[Bearsixty7]

I have noticed our 2019 Powerstroke will "Pause" Def use or measurements in freezing weather. I have the % used or dirty selected on the dash and it will stop incrementing regardless of miles driven when the weather is below 32F.
First time it happened years ago, I got online and did a search to figure out what failed and many (on a Ford forum) said it was normal and to just use it as normal. they were right, once the weather warmed up it started incrementing with miles/hours driven.

 

[WinterDeere]

I still remember that the first time I heard someone say "diesel exhaust fluid", I had assumed it was sold in the same aisle as muffler bearings and headlight fluid. The left-handed smoke-shifters of the automotive world, my friends had a difficult time convincing me it was a real thing.

Am I the only one?