1734E front axle disassembly

[Colin1960]

I have to replace one of the steering seals on my 1734E. I bought the service manual for this machine and frankly it is worthless.

Anyway have final drive face off but can not get the the final drive, which is part 1 in the attached picture , off the axle although it is separated, and can not get the final housing, part 17, off. There seems to be no way to access the retaining clip that would hold the shaft in .

Just wondering if there are some magic spell incantations that you need to do while sacrificing a chicken or something,

Here is the Massey Parts book link.

https://parts.agcocorp.com/ca/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/79036261/l&c=mfc13602

Solved.

Part 19 in the parts break down is a rubber cup with brass insert in the end. It needs to be removed and then the retaining clip is available. From there the whole thing will come apart.

Part 1 is held in place by a detent or 2 ( shop told me ) and it needs to be pried loose with bars or a screw drivers regardless of the fact that the manual says not to do that and talks about o rings to seal it that do not exist.

Over all this has to be the crappiest service manual I have ever seen

 

[WranglerX]

You don't have to take final drive housing #1 off..... Been there done that .... Remove drive hub assembly #34 and remove snap ring # 20 and whole assembly #17 drops off..... You are changing #12 which is a two part seal in video (early 17xx) but it appears to be single part seal in parts break down and ordering information for GC 1735. ....

Only nasty part is snap ring #20, you need good pliers to remove/replace it...

Try this video.. Its for a GC 2300 BUT is identical procedure for GC 17XX machines.. Be careful removing outer hub/spindle assembly it's mate surfaces is machined aluminum and sealed with RTV.... You really don't want to scuff/distort it....There is a couple of places the you can put a chisel against to separate it from main housing....

 

[Colin1960]

You don't have to take final drive housing #1 off..... Been there done that .... Remove drive hub assembly #34 and remove snap ring # 20 and whole assembly #17 drops off..... You are changing #12 which is a two part seal in video (early 17xx) but it appears to be single part seal in parts break down and ordering information for GC 1735. ....

Only nasty part is snap ring #20, you need good pliers to remove/replace it...

Try this video.. Its for a GC 2300 BUT is identical procedure for GC 17XX machines.. Be careful removing outer hub/spindle assembly it's mate surfaces is machined aluminum and sealed with RTV.... You really don't want to scuff/distort it....There is a couple of places the you can put a chisel against to separate it from main housing....

Thanks for the response.

This is not a GC. The retaining clip is simply not visible. Turns out the seal on the bottom is a rubber cup with a metal plate the end. It looks sacrificial. Once you pry that out you can get to the retaining clip. Unless you are willing to work on your back, and since it is a hoist I can't, and I am not, the entire drive needs to come off.

I need to clean it anyway. The machine has 2200 hrs on it and the hydraulic oil looks like it was never changed. Lots of sludge. I will not be able to clean the axle but I will be able to clean the drive units and then I will change the oil a couple of times.

 

[Dmacleo]

actually hauled someones 1732 to dealer approx 2 weeks ago for same type repair. not something I was gonna do on hands and knees in gravel. leaking from area of seal #12.

 

[Colin1960]

actually hauled someones 1732 to dealer approx 2 weeks ago for same type repair. not something I was gonna do on hands and knees in gravel. leaking from area of seal #12.

It seems to be a weak point. All the dealers have that part in stock. I will be changing that fluid and keeping it clean.

 

[Dmacleo]

well the 1532 was a 2008 model so 17yrs old and leak started this spriing best I can tell. I do service on it. not too bad I guess.just not a repair a disabled guy wants to do in the dirt

 

[Harry in Ky]

Thanks for the response.

This is not a GC. The retaining clip is simply not visible. Turns out the seal on the bottom is a rubber cup with a metal plate the end. It looks sacrificial. Once you pry that out you can get to the retaining clip. Unless you are willing to work on your back, and since it is a hoist I can't, and I am not, the entire drive needs to come off.

I need to clean it anyway. The machine has 2200 hrs on it and the hydraulic oil looks like it was never changed. Lots of sludge. I will not be able to clean the axle but I will be able to clean the drive units and then I will change the oil a couple of times.

Having done that repair a number of times, I agree, take the unit off the tractor. Whether you're working in a heated shop or a gravel driveway there's no reason to try it while still mounted. I pull the axle flange first, then remove the whole spindle assembly from the center section, flip it over, start with the rubber plug and go from there.

 

[Colin1960]

Having done that repair a number of times, I agree, take the unit off the tractor. Whether you're working in a heated shop or a gravel driveway there's no reason to try it while still mounted. I pull the axle flange first, then remove the whole spindle assembly from the center section, flip it over, start with the rubber plug and go from there.

That is what I did. It was a fun job once you manage to get into the damn thing

 

[Colin1960]

So this job is done. I thought I will edit this so it the entire process is complete because the service document is terrible. I will make another post

The secret is to take out the rubber seal that is at the bottom. Part 19. It is sacrificial. It is a rubber seal that has a metal component.

Refer to the drawing in the original post.

1) Drill a hole in the seal in the middle. If you are off to one side your drill will catch in the bearing

2) Pry it out with a screw driver.

3) Remove retaining clip on the bottom

4) Use a ball joint removal fork to press the gear and bearing out

https://www.princessauto.com/en/15-16-in-ball-joint-tool/product/PA0009065012

5) Keep removing clips and bearings and eventually it all comes apart.

6) To get bearing and gear 7 & 8 out of housing 1, you will need something that can pull the bearing out. I used a pilot bearing removal tool https://www.princessauto.com/en/slide-hammer-pilot-bearing-puller/product/PA0009143819 Kind of expensive but nothing else would work.

Clean it all up and put it back together.

 

[Colin1960]

So this is a complete documentation of this process which is not in the Massey service manual. Hey ARCO, this is what service instructions are supposed to look like.

You can find the parts book here. https://parts.agcocorp.com/ca/en/apbcontent/model/masseyferguson/79036261/l/mfc13602 Select front axle final drive

• Before you start go get at least 5 liters of oil hydraulic oil that will be compatible to this tractor.
• Also get the seals. Might as well do it all at once.
• If the seal has been leaking there will be dirt in the bearings. This would indicate complete disassembly should be done and washing of gears and bearings to remove all dirt. I used Zep Zep Concentrated Heavy-Duty Citrus Degreaser & Cleaner 1Gal from Home Depot. Cut 50 50 with water and worked well.
  
  
• Might as well do both sides if you have the money and this will let you clean the oil on both wheels. Mine was very dirty. Never serviced.
  
  
• Since your in there you might as well do all seals on each side. My axle seal showed oil leaking and the oil was very dirty so I wanted to strip out and clean it all. The main axle is no longer available and all the parts on 1 side are likely 3-5k each side.
  
  
• You need to take it all apart. When you put it back together you need to draw part 1 and 17 together with the seal in place. I don't know how you would do it otherwise without damaging the seals. Do not hammer on these 2 piece seals. You will wreck them

Parts needed
For one side.

• 3703282M1 Oil Seal, Front Axle Part 30. maybe not required but you are in there, might as well
• 4266334M91 Oil Seal, Final Drive. Part 12 this is the seal that allows the steering to work and be sealed.
• 3708683M1 END CAP This is the piece that is sacrificial that you need to remove to get to the internals of the final drive. Part 19
• 3708628M1 O-RING Part 2

1. Remove the wheel
   
   
2. Remove the drain plug at the bottom, and the vent plug at the top and drain oil. The plugs are part 21
   
   
3. Remove the face plate for the assembly that the wheel is attached too. This is part 34
   
   
4. Remove the 4 nuts bolts to remove the rest of the drive assembly. Part 1. You will need to pry this apart. I used a sharp wood chisel ( yes I know) to get in the little space and then graduated up to pry bars. Eventually it will come apart. It is being held in place by a detent and the fact that the axle needs to come out. It was not easy, but it came. Be careful, don't drop it. This whole assembly is north of 5k CDN
   
   
5. Take this to a secure place and drill out the center of the bottom plug, part 19. Drill in the center. I needed a large screw driver and so a 1/2 hole. This is a metal reinforced rubber plug. If you drill on the edge your drill will hit the bearing that is just below the surface.
   
   
6. Remove snap ring 20. Then use a ball joint removal fork to pry the gear out the bottom along with the bearing parts 20 and 25. All of these bearings are all very close tolerance fit into the housing, they don't just fall out. They need to be pried out and tapped back in with a dead blow hammer or a hammer and a piece of wood. Do not strike any of the parts with a metal hammer.
   
   
7. Remove snap ring part 15. Now the 2 housings will separate.
   
   
8. Remove snap ring 16 and bearing 14. If the seal has been leaking there will be dirt in bearing 14 and if there is dirt in bearing 14 there is dirt everywhere. Clean all bearings
   
   
9. Remove cir-clip 9, and bearing 8 and gear 7. These are press fitted together. You will need some kind of a puller. I used a pilot bearing removal tool
   
   https://www.princessauto.com/en/slide-hammer-pilot-bearing-puller/product/PA0009143819
   
   Kind of expensive but nothing else would work. ( when I pass someone is getting a really nice shop with almost every tool imaginable. )
   
   
10. Tap out bearing 11 and gear 10. This is one piece as the gear is pressed into the bearing.
    
    
11. Remove seal 12. This is a 2 piece seal. There will be one piece on each of Part 1 and Part 17.
    
    
12. Part 32 is press fit on to part 27. I used a tie rod removal tool and pulled on the edges of the gear.
    https://www.princessauto.com/en/outer-tie-rod-puller/product/PA0009064999
    
    
13. Remove the retaining clips and the spacer and tap out part 27 with a dead blow hammer or a press.
    
    
14. Remove seal 30. Again this is a 2 pc seal. 1 will be on part 27 and the other in part 34. Pry them both out.
    
    
15. Clean all your parts, likely with a water soluble cleaner, wash them off with clean water to remove the detergent and then immediately spray with WD40.
    
    WD 40 stands for water dispersant formula 40. it also has a little oil to stop rust. It is not a lubricant I used a whole can on the one side.
    
    I had dirt in all of the bearings 13,14 & 26. They did not spin well and needed a good cleaning. If you can not clean them sufficient to spin freely replace them. They are off the shelf bearings available for 25% of what ARCO wants
    
    
16. Reassemble as follows.
    
    
17. Install bearings 13 & 14 with their clips in part 17.
    
    
18. Install gear 10 and gear 11 in part 1
    
    
19. lightly press the new seal 12 into part 17.
    
    
20. Fit part 1 and 17 together lining and slipping the shaft of part 1 into the bearings.
    
    
21. Get a 1/2 or 3/8 threaded rod and insert it into the bottom of party 17 till till it sticks through gear 10. Put a nut and washer on this here and a nut and washer on the bottom at part 17 and then draw these together making sure everything lines up. You have drawn it together properly when you can see that you can put on circlip 15.
    
    
22. Now put gear 7 and bearing 8 and put the circlip on.
    
    
23. Install the axle shaft 24. Insert bearing 26 and gear 25 into the housing and put the circlip on.
    
    
24. Bang part 19 into part 17 with a dead blow hammer or a metal hammer and a piece of wood.
    
    
25. Place the wheel seal 30 over the shaft of part 17. Place the housing 34 over seal 30 and lightly press it in. Do not hammer. You will damage the seal and they are expensive
    
    
26. Press bearing into the housing.
    
    
27. Assemble the spacers and retaining clips 29 and 33 onto the shaft. Place the drive gear, part 28 on the shaft and then press bearing 32 onto the shaft.
    
    
28. Insert the drive axle into the main axle. There is extra machining on once side of this axle and that is to go into the bearing on the inside of the axle.
    
    
29. Put part 1 with o ring 2 back on the axle and tighten it up.
    
    
30. Put flange 34 back on. Use sealant Permatex® the Right Stuff® One minute Gasket, Black, It is pricy but if you use this you can fill it with oil right away. make sure you torque it up right away.
    General PDP Template
    
    
31. Put drain plug 21 back in bottom of part 17.
    
    
32. If you are doing both sides, do the other one.
    
    
33. Fill with axle with oil till it is 1/2 full.
    
    
    You are done.