1970 Ford 3000 won’t move but goes into gear

[KelbyCostner3388]

Almost 2 years ago now I was plowing the garden and just one random pass I backed up and then went to go forward again and the tractor hasn’t moved since , no noise no nothing and clutch was pulling good and then just poor nothing , fast forward I split the tractor just got the new clutch in and flywheel resurfaced and the exact same thing ! Still will not move but goes into gear when pressing the clutch in. It feels the exact same as it did so I’m guessing it wasn’t the clutch in the first place , if anybody knows what might be the culprit please help !

 

[Harry in Ky]

Replacing the clutch was probably a good move even if that wasn't the failure. However, since the lack of an actual clutch problem was no doubt pretty obvious at that point, putting it all back together assuming it was (probably) fixed was not a good move. The simplest thing to do next would be pull the shift cover. Align all the shift gates to neutral. Pull the fuel shut off knob out and play around bumping the starter (probably need a jumper wire for this) and see what gears/shafts move in neutral and then with various speeds selected, hi/lo included. MAYBE something obvious will jump out at you. Actually starting the engine could sling oil everywhere.

It wouldn't hurt to have a manual that shows a cutaway diagram of the power train to look at while doing all this. I may well have a PDF of one somewhere, and possibly could E mail that if needed.

 

[CliffordK]

On my 1715, I believe the PTO is controlled by the clutch, or at least it would be if I actually had a working clutch.

Does your PTO work through the clutch? That would give you some information of power being transmitted through the clutch. I haven't torn a transmission apart yet.

 

[Harry in Ky]

The 1715 is a Japanese tractor. Has little or nothing in common to the 3000.

 

[John0829]

Check the drive coupling where the pinion connects to the transmission

 

[SiteEngineer]

The main culprits for total failure like that are usually a broken shaft inside the gearbox, or maybe a massive failure in the final drive.

 

[KelbyCostner3388]

Replacing the clutch was probably a good move even if that wasn't the failure. However, since the lack of an actual clutch problem was no doubt pretty obvious at that point, putting it all back together assuming it was (probably) fixed was not a good move. The simplest thing to do next would be pull the shift cover. Align all the shift gates to neutral. Pull the fuel shut off knob out and play around bumping the starter (probably need a jumper wire for this) and see what gears/shafts move in neutral and then with various speeds selected, hi/lo included. MAYBE something obvious will jump out at you. Actually starting the engine could sling oil everywhere.

It wouldn't hurt to have a manual that shows a cutaway diagram of the power train to look at while doing all this. I may well have a PDF of one somewhere, and possibly could E mail that if needed.

Sounds like a good idea ! I will check that out and see if it is making it into the gearbox , I edited the post, my wife said that when it happened I told her I heard a noise. I didn’t remember that so like I put in the post now , maybe a broken input shaft ? I’ll take a look here soon and see what we find

 

[KelbyCostner3388]

The main culprits for total failure like that are usually a broken shaft inside the gearbox, or maybe a massive failure in the final drive.

I originally took the hydraulic top plate off the rear to watch all the gears moving when I put it in gear “moving by hand” and everything was connected from the rearend to the gear box so I’m leaning towards probably a broken input shaft

 

[KelbyCostner3388]

On my 1715, I believe the PTO is controlled by the clutch, or at least it would be if I actually had a working clutch.

Does your PTO work through the clutch? That would give you some information of power being transmitted through the clutch. I haven't torn a transmission apart yet.

Whether it has anything in common or not I will definitely see if the pto works , I believe it worked still when it first happened so that probably should’ve been my sign that it maybe wasn’t the clutch

 

[DJ54]

I would try the PTO to assure you have power back through the rear end. A fellow had a similar problem on one of these forums several years ago. I had a hunch he had a broken axle and asked him to apply each brake pedal separately at a time and sure enough the tractor moved. But this was on a Farmall Super C where the brakes are on the bull pinion shaft.

Being your Ford's brakes are on the end of the axle, not sure how you accomplish stopping one axle if it is broken between the differential and brake. If it had a differential lock to make both rear wheels turn that would be a different story, but don't believe the 3000 had a differential lock. None the less, guessing you may have a broken axle on one side or the other.