Flail Mower Considering Betstco Flail cutter/mower

[Fallon]

I have a flail....I don't have to stop the PTO to back up. I've backed up unlifted and also lifted but have never stopped the PTO.

Ya, same. Obviously hitting something solid like a tree in reverse will cause something to break. Sounds like either the design of those Bestco flails is bad or you have something setup wrong. Unless the flails are digging into the ground it shouldn't bust a sheer pin. Even then I never had any issues scalping the ground & have never blown a sheer pin on 6 years of operating a flail. Belts slipping should generally function as the safety device as well.

 

[Sid Dunn]

Hello Skysummit,

A used JD 25A, JD290 or JD390 would be much easier to purchase and obtain parts for and the basic JD 25A design for all three models has been around for over 40 years.

They all have a heavy tubular flail mower rotor and use a shorter side slicer knife and the older 25A has greasable bearings which is a huge selling point for used units.

How do you access the blades to sharpen them or change them?

 

[leonz]

How do you access the blades to sharpen them or change them?

Good evening Mr. Dunn,

The flail mower knives are attached to the flail mower rotor
using mounting straps with mounting holes that hold
the knife hangers that carry the knives.

 

[Mtsoxfan]

OK, I know this is an old thread, but here goes.
I've watched so many videos, read so many reviews, and after reading this thread, I'm no closer to pulling the trigger. Matter of fact, I think I'm farther away. I am about to close (knock on wood) on a piece of property that has about 18 or so acres of what use to be hay. It hasn't been hayed in at least 5 years. I've brush hogged 4 acres or so, and cut walking paths. I've also used my semi beat up MMM to maintain what I have brush hogged, and it looks pretty good. I'm not looking for more "lawn" just want to keep it under control. My plan is to cut only 3 or so times a year.
All that said, is it worth getting a flail mower for my needs? I know the MMM won't last more than a couple of years if I keep using that. Other than clumps, which, depending on my mood, doesn't bother me, when using brush hog. I didn't realize that using flail mower was done much slower than brush hog. I get that when doing brush it is, as seen in videos, but tall grass didn't look like it was so slow.

 

[Torvy]

Here's my thoughts. I have about the same acreage, but mostly pine forest. I have some easements that I need to maintain (utilities only hit them once every 6 years or so). Like you, I cut about 3 times a year.

The flail is offset, so you can get closer to trees, fencelines, etc.

I use hammers, so they eat brush, but still leave a decent finish. I dont have a 'lawn'.

As long as you size it for your tractor and don't eat too much hidden wire (ask me how I know), you will be fine.

I've run at about 4.5 mph and it works great.

 

[leonz]

OK, I know this is an old thread, but here goes.
I've watched so many videos, read so many reviews, and after reading this thread, I'm no closer to pulling the trigger. Matter of fact, I think I'm farther away. I am about to close (knock on wood) on a piece of property that has about 18 or so acres of what use to be hay. It hasn't been hayed in at least 5 years. I've brush hogged 4 acres or so, and cut walking paths. I've also used my semi beat up MMM to maintain what I have brush hogged, and it looks pretty good. I'm not looking for more "lawn" just want to keep it under control. My plan is to cut only 3 or so times a year.
All that said, is it worth getting a flail mower for my needs? I know the MMM won't last more than a couple of years if I keep using that. Other than clumps, which, depending on my mood, doesn't bother me, when using brush hog. I didn't realize that using flail mower was done much slower than brush hog. I get that when doing brush it is, as seen in videos, but tall grass didn't look like it was so slow.

Hello Mtsoxfan,

This thread will always be relevant for anyone wanting
to invest in a mowing implement that will last several
lifetimes and be useable on larger tractors.

A properly sized flail mower is not slower than a rotary cutter.

You have to understand that a rotary cutter uses less than half its
cutting edge width with every rotation as it advances forward.

A flail mower or flail shredder has more cutting edge length per foot
of cutting width than a rotary cutter because it has 2, 3 or 4 rows
of side slicer knife pairs OR in the case of hammer knife flail shredders
it will have fewer wider hammer knives that will only cut the brush once
and be unable to recut the brush it has already cut.

A rotary cutter will not recut the brush for you either.

The TC29D is a small mule with low PTO horsepower.

YOU NEED A 4 foot cut FLAIL SHREDDER WITH
A TRASH DISCHARGE DOOR AND HAMMER KNIVES
or a finish flail mower with 4 rows of side slicer knives
and no larger in cutting width if you are only intent on
mowing 3 times a year.
Four rows of side slicer knives will quickly slice the brush
and recut the same brush as it advances forward.

A flail shredder or flail mower works best with a low cutting
height of 2 inches which creates the pressure gradient
needed(vacuum)to lift the clippings up and over the flail
mower/flail shredder rotor and down to the ground.

A flail shredder with side slicer knives and a trash door will
work equally well and provide a better cut and allow you to
recut the brush several times by mowing in a spiral pattern.

Anything larger than 4 feet will only suck power from your
mule like an industrial vacuum.

I would be more than happy to help you purchase the right
flail mower/flail shredder.

 

[TractorNoob85]

I love my flail mower, but I find it better to cut every few weeks before the grass gets too tall that the tractor tires tend to lay it down. I get a fantastic cut when the mowing height is around 2-2.5" but I also find some rocks at that height, so I rather mow around 3" to avoid the rocks and save the life of the hammers. Leonz is spot on with everything he states about flail mowers.

I run a 77" behind a 45hp syncro shuttle tractor. I mow right about 4-5mph, and it works well without bogging or burning the belts. It takes me about 4 hours to mow 10 acres. I recommend going with at least the width of the tractor but that also means you need the power to support it. A 48" would definitely leave a lot of power in reserve but boy would that take me a lot longer to get the job done.

 

[Mtsoxfan]

Hello Mtsoxfan,

This thread will always be relevant for anyone wanting
to invest in a mowing implement that will last several
lifetimes and be useable on larger tractors.

A properly sized flail mower is not slower than a rotary cutter.

You have to understand that a rotary cutter uses less than half its
cutting edge width with every rotation as it advances forward.

A flail mower or flail shredder has more cutting edge length per foot
of cutting width than a rotary cutter because it has 2, 3 or 4 rows
of side slicer knife pairs OR in the case of hammer knife flail shredders
it will have fewer wider hammer knives that will only cut the brush once
and be unable to recut the brush it has already cut.

A rotary cutter will not recut the brush for you either.

The TC29D is a small mule with low PTO horsepower.

YOU NEED A 4 foot cut FLAIL SHREDDER WITH
A TRASH DISCHARGE DOOR AND HAMMER KNIVES
or a finish flail mower with 4 rows of side slicer knives
and no larger in cutting width if you are only intent on
mowing 3 times a year.
Four rows of side slicer knives will quickly slice the brush
and recut the same brush as it advances forward.

A flail shredder or flail mower works best with a low cutting
height of 2 inches which creates the pressure gradient
needed(vacuum)to lift the clippings up and over the flail
mower/flail shredder rotor and down to the ground.

A flail shredder with side slicer knives and a trash door will
work equally well and provide a better cut and allow you to
recut the brush several times by mowing in a spiral pattern.

Anything larger than 4 feet will only suck power from your
mule like an industrial vacuum.

I would be more than happy to help you purchase the right
flail mower/flail shredder.

Nice write up, thanks. I need to update my data. I just bought a Kioti 3520SEH, just a bump up in HP.

 

[scootr]

I've used the Bestco 84" HD mower behind 2 50 hp tractors for a few yrs. It does a decent job if you don't go too fast. I back it up all the time, no problem. Grease the roller etc often. Only repairs were belts and blades, both my fault.
That said, in tall material you will find it leaves a few stalks behind (mostly where the tractor bent long stuff over ahead of the mower) and you can re-mow those in the opposite direction for a more manicured look. I have a BH on the front of the SS which gives a better cut. Its slower but gets into places a 3 pt mower can't easily. I have an old BH converted blades to chains which does a good rough cut on anything and everything. Between the 3 I have a mower for any task.

 

[Mtsoxfan]

Hello Mtsoxfan,

This thread will always be relevant for anyone wanting
to invest in a mowing implement that will last several
lifetimes and be useable on larger tractors.

A properly sized flail mower is not slower than a rotary cutter.

You have to understand that a rotary cutter uses less than half its
cutting edge width with every rotation as it advances forward.

A flail mower or flail shredder has more cutting edge length per foot
of cutting width than a rotary cutter because it has 2, 3 or 4 rows
of side slicer knife pairs OR in the case of hammer knife flail shredders
it will have fewer wider hammer knives that will only cut the brush once
and be unable to recut the brush it has already cut.

A rotary cutter will not recut the brush for you either.

The TC29D is a small mule with low PTO horsepower.

YOU NEED A 4 foot cut FLAIL SHREDDER WITH
A TRASH DISCHARGE DOOR AND HAMMER KNIVES
or a finish flail mower with 4 rows of side slicer knives
and no larger in cutting width if you are only intent on
mowing 3 times a year.
Four rows of side slicer knives will quickly slice the brush
and recut the same brush as it advances forward.

A flail shredder or flail mower works best with a low cutting
height of 2 inches which creates the pressure gradient
needed(vacuum)to lift the clippings up and over the flail
mower/flail shredder rotor and down to the ground.

A flail shredder with side slicer knives and a trash door will
work equally well and provide a better cut and allow you to
recut the brush several times by mowing in a spiral pattern.

Anything larger than 4 feet will only suck power from your
mule like an industrial vacuum.

I would be more than happy to help you purchase the right
flail mower/flail shredder.

And that is another fact that people disagree on. One site says Rotary uses more HP, others say FM uses more HP. The dealer I bought tractor from recommends the

68″ Standard Duty Flail Mower, FH-EF175​

I think the video from Messicks says that you can be at the low end of HP. People on here are credible, as well as some reviewers, like Messicks. That's what makes this more difficult for me. I will spend the $2500 if I can justify/prove to myself that it is the right choice. My TC29D had no issues cutting with BH. Just had to use low range up the steeper hills.