HawkinsHollow
Veteran Member
Man that sure looks good! I hope it works! What a sweet little spot that is going to be when it fills up. 
Building Lake Corona
- Thread starter jk96
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Now is the time to set your posts for a dock. One of my many mistakes was not doing this myself. Once my pond filled up, we fished from the shoreline, or in a rowboat.
Over the years, the shoreline grew more and more plants in the water, and it has become more challenging to enjoy fishing from the shoreline. I have to build a dock, or two, so we can enjoy fishing the pond without constantly getting caught in all the stuff in the water.
Over the years, the shoreline grew more and more plants in the water, and it has become more challenging to enjoy fishing from the shoreline. I have to build a dock, or two, so we can enjoy fishing the pond without constantly getting caught in all the stuff in the water.
Unfortunately time is not on my side for a dock. My slopes have a pretty steep drop so should help with how far out I get growth. If it does fill and become a problem I'll be sure to post for a big helping of "I told you so"
The big stump is moved. Last bag of bentonite going down. I used everything this machine had to move it. Not sure what it weighs but its a lot. Was able to get the 7' forks under it and lift enough to skid it.
ning
Elite Member
I'm with Eddie on this - just set posts, leave the rest of the dock for later. I dug a footing and used 8" tube forms and left an anchor in the top when I last had my pond dry so it could be re-scooped - pretty minimal effort to set up the posts now, build the dock next year.
I guess the dock may be one thing I may want that I just don't realize yet. If I can get to it I may take the advise.
ning
Elite Member
I guess an in-between measure would be to set some footings with only a small rise like 6" of a tube form above it.. perhaps also leave some rebar sticking up a foot and toss some pipe over it so nobody gets skewered
then later if you decide you don't want a dock, or just never do decide that you do want a dock, there's nothing to see and not much in the way
and later if you do decide to build a dock after all then you stick a form down into the water over the stub that's there, and fill with concrete... though you may have to use something like PVC pipe as the form in the water (or something like 8" Ceme-Tube Standard Concrete Forming Tube which I have no experience with) ... and hope you put the dock footings in the right spot for where you now want the dock...
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Another mistake that I made was making the shoreline drop off too steep. I marked around the pond with red paint to show were the water would be when full, and then I graded the ground above the waterline so it would be easy to mow. Not much of an angle. Then on the water side, I wanted it to drop off as fast and as steep as I could to discourage reeds and other plants from growing there.
The thing I didn't think about was that the pond is only full for a short period of time, and as it drops, I have to deal with mowing the steep drop off. In places, this is very scary. Another thing I didn't realize was that the plants that grow in just a few inches to a foot of water will grow right up to the edge of the water and then take over the grass if not mowed constantly.
So now my challenge in life is mowing reeds at the edge of the water. Two years ago, I got a bigger tractor and a 12-foot batwing. This has made it a lot easier to get to the edge of the water and not have my tires any closer than I have to.
If I was doing it all over again, I would of made my shore line shallower, and easier to mow. The first five years was easy, but as Mother Nature takes over, she does what she wants!!!!
The thing I didn't think about was that the pond is only full for a short period of time, and as it drops, I have to deal with mowing the steep drop off. In places, this is very scary. Another thing I didn't realize was that the plants that grow in just a few inches to a foot of water will grow right up to the edge of the water and then take over the grass if not mowed constantly.
So now my challenge in life is mowing reeds at the edge of the water. Two years ago, I got a bigger tractor and a 12-foot batwing. This has made it a lot easier to get to the edge of the water and not have my tires any closer than I have to.
If I was doing it all over again, I would of made my shore line shallower, and easier to mow. The first five years was easy, but as Mother Nature takes over, she does what she wants!!!!
My terrain and surrounding hillsides kind of dictates the steepness. Not much of a choice on 3 of the sides on how steep it is. On the plus side the ctl and front brush cutter gives me about 8 ft of reach. If I end up with that problem it means it has filled up so I'll take it.
ning
Elite Member
I've been thinking of getting a sickle bar mower for this reason, being able to cut off to the side a ways without a huge weight over there
Wrapped up moving dirt today. Just need to compact and move some of the fish structure back in. The timber around the pond I cleared last fall is getting some good growth and greening up now that sunlight is hitting the ground so I'm not too concerned with erosion. I'll post some final pics next week, get a yard stick in to measure water loss, and hope for rain.
civilian
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2015
- Messages
- 2,112
- Location
- Vanderbilt, MI
- Tractor
- Gravely Pro 16 walk behind, Kubota BX2230, Kubota B26TLB
Dad has 3 ponds that were put in in the 1950's. Became natural streams in the cedar swamp. They all have a shallow edge in the water. Meaning a youngster that fell in could stand up and then get out. Too steep of an edge is about impossible to walk out of. Out about 6ft then the pond bottom drops off. Yes this leaves some potential for underwater growth, but has not been a problem. These ponds are all within easy access from his house. Jon
I have one side that I would consider steeper than desired. It would require a large amount of dirt moved to build out the slope. I can climb it with my ctl so walkable in water, not sure. The rest I would consider a steep slope but nothing you couldn't walk out of.
civilian
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2015
- Messages
- 2,112
- Location
- Vanderbilt, MI
- Tractor
- Gravely Pro 16 walk behind, Kubota BX2230, Kubota B26TLB
Is the bottom fairly clean? Dad's being spring fed and creek fed, gets a lot of silt. Which makes like a quick sand, loose your boot in stuff. BTDT. My prior post is to just point the fact of being able to get out of pond after falling in. Jon
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
I have a 9' Deere 350 sickle bar cutter. It is one of the most cantankerous contraptions I have ever used....But once you have it hooked up to the 3 point, and get going, things fall into place for trimming the pond. They are also high maintenance. But they do the job as good as anything I've ever seen.
Just finished reworking it so dry at the moment. I understand the concern. I don't think there is anywhere that your going to be stuck should you fall in. May be on hands and knees in one spot but not going to be stuck with no way to exit.
The hillside where my loader is sitting is where I've pulled the clay from. I need to use my top soil piled up top to cover this hill and the walk path I cut in so I can get some grass to grow and control erosion. Any suggestions on how much to add. 6", 12"? Should the clay be scarified before adding topsoil to help keep it from sliding? It is pretty smooth at the moment from cutting with the bucket.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Here in East Texas, we don't have topsoil, It's all red clay from the surface until it turns into another color of clay. Coastal Bermuda grass is our preferred grass for hay and ground cover. If nothing is done, Bahia will take over.
