Ford 1720 help on 3pt lift

[Rockych1]

Hi everyone. Ive got an issue with this Ford 1720. Its a 2WD. It does not have a loader. Its a 1991 model. It has been a sweet little tractor for around the house and small bushhogging. Weve owned it a couple years now and no problems. Till Saturday. I used the tractor probably the longest its ever ran in one stint. After a couple hours I lost the lift capability on my 3pt arms. I noticed it would sporadically jump to the top every 30 seconds to a minute then ease back down to the ground. I observed this behavior and was able to limp back to the truck. I turned off the machine and thought maybe she was low on Hydraulic fluid. i pulled the dipstick and it began overflowing. it was right on full when starting. I let it overflow till it stopped. Replaced the dipstick. Started the tractor back up and arms working flawlessly. FOR A COUPLE MINUTES. Then started doing the same thing again. I am headed to get a replacement hydraulic oil filter now just because it prolly needs to be done regardless. But I cant see that being it. And no, messing with the speed knob under the seat has not improved any of the functioning. Any and all help is greatly appreciated! Thank You!

 

[Keutz112]

Hello Rocky -

Since today is your first post, it might as well be mine. I have a Ford 1910, and am currently working on an erratically behaving 3 point, I may be of help as your tractor is similar.

First, since you're half way there, you should likely change the hydraulic fluid while you are changing the filter. Consider filtering the oil on the way out for a debris check..??

Second, there is a piston seal which goes on the piston which sits behind the speed knob you mention (flow control valve). I just ordered this seal, and the O-rings for the cover for my tractor today. Looks like it's easy to get at the piston, just remove the bolts/nut around the cover that the control valve knob protrudes from and the whole assembly comes out. Getting the new seal on may be a challenge - plenty of posts and tips on the interwebs to help out. This seal gone bad (after ??? years) is not unexpected and a possible culprit of the misbehaving 3 point arms, and likely needs replacing anyway. Not sure about the overflow condition though, that almost sounds like a stuck check valve or similar in the control valve assembly, which could be more sinister... Could be debris from your failed piston seal... Hmmm, let's put those thoughts aside.

So, clean fluid/filter and a flow control piston seal and O-ring(s) for the cover replacement is my 2 cent vote. You haven't really wasted anything if it's not the problem and your tractor will be happier you have done it.

 

[hodge]

Your issue is linked to the excessive oil. You need to deduce why it went from full to over full.

 

[rScotty]

Your issue is linked to the excessive oil. You need to deduce why it went from full to over full.

The usual reason for too much trans/hydraulic fluid is the tractor sat out in the weather and water got down the shifter collars into the transmission sump. If so, the fluid will be milky instead of clear.
When that happens, corrosion usually requires replacing the O ring on the lift cylinder piston too.
rScotty

 

[Rockych1]

Hello Rocky -

Since today is your first post, it might as well be mine. I have a Ford 1910, and am currently working on an erratically behaving 3 point, I may be of help as your tractor is similar.

First, since you're half way there, you should likely change the hydraulic fluid while you are changing the filter. Consider filtering the oil on the way out for a debris check..??

Second, there is a piston seal which goes on the piston which sits behind the speed knob you mention (flow control valve). I just ordered this seal, and the O-rings for the cover for my tractor today. Looks like it's easy to get at the piston, just remove the bolts/nut around the cover that the control valve knob protrudes from and the whole assembly comes out. Getting the new seal on may be a challenge - plenty of posts and tips on the interwebs to help out. This seal gone bad (after ??? years) is not unexpected and a possible culprit of the misbehaving 3 point arms, and likely needs replacing anyway. Not sure about the overflow condition though, that almost sounds like a stuck check valve or similar in the control valve assembly, which could be more sinister... Could be debris from your failed piston seal... Hmmm, let's put those thoughts aside.

So, clean fluid/filter and a flow control piston seal and O-ring(s) for the cover replacement is my 2 cent vote. You haven't really wasted anything if it's not the problem and your tractor will be happier you have done it.

Thanks for the response! Gonna order the seals tonight and get all of this done and see what happens!

 

[MTGreen]

Don't forget cleaning out your oil pickup screen

 

[Rockych1]

Your issue is linked to the excessive oil. You need to deduce why it

Don't forget cleaning out your oil pickup screen

I thought i had read on here somewhere that the ones with external filters didnt have the screens?

 

[hodge]

The usual reason for too much trans/hydraulic fluid is the tractor sat out in the weather and water got down the shifter collars into the transmission sump. If so, the fluid will be milky instead of clear.
When that happens, corrosion usually requires replacing the O ring on the lift cylinder piston too.
rScotty

The OP indicated that the hydraulic oil was checked prior to using the tractor, then after use it was overflowing out of the dipstick tube. So, oil from a different source must be getting into the case. The transmission and engine oil are separate from the hydraulic system/rear end, correct? The first thing I would do is check the engine and transmission levels, and see if one of them is down.

 

[MTGreen]

I thought i had read on here somewhere that the ones with external filters didnt have the screens?

I thought I recall my 1720 having both but I haven't changed the hydraulic fluid in a couple years and may be getting it mixed up with one of my other tractors. I'll check when I get home

 

[Rockych1]

I thought I recall my 1720 having both but I haven't changed the hydraulic fluid in a couple years and may be getting it mixed up with one of my other tractors. I'll check when I get home

Thank you

 

[Keutz112]

Here's a pic of my piston removed, and what was left of the seal... The 3 point works a whole lot better with the new seal.

 

[Rockych1]

Tractor is fixed and working great! I cannot believe how bad that seal was! I mustve bot checked this tractors oil and must check one of the other two. Because when i drained the system that is supposed to hold 7 gallons. It had 13 gallons. We inherited this tractor and all i can think of is when the lift was failing they kept trying to add hydro oil! Thank you all for all your help!

 

[Keutz112]

Glad you got things fixed!

Now you're going to want/need to add a remote valve (or 2) for additional control of implements (hydraulic top and tilt perhaps??)

Check out this post to get more information: Ford 1710 (and others) Hydraulic Power Beyond Adapter Plate

I just installed a set of Ted's "rear remote" valves on my 1910. They're currently the shiniest objects on my tractor! No top/tilt set yet, but I cannot wait to put them to use. Awesome that we have the "Mad Machinist from Minnesota" who apparently is also a fan of these tractors. No disrespect with the made up nickname - Ted is super friendly and helpful.

 

[Dylan Book]

This is definitely what is going on with my tractor, any body know the part number for those seals? Where did you order from? Thanks in advance!

 

[dinoedwards]

I've got a guy selling his 1720 and 3 point won't move. Could this be same thing or do other parts wear as well? 1800hrs and stuck in up position? Is it worth 7500

 

[RjCorazza]

I wouldn't think that tractor would be worth $7500 without the 3 point problem and with reasonable sheet metal. As is, I personally wouldn't pay more than $3k or so.

 

[rScotty]

I've got a guy selling his 1720 and 3 point won't move. Could this be same thing or do other parts wear as well? 1800hrs and stuck in up position? Is it worth 7500

The 3pt piston O ring usually lasts until some water gets into the trans/hydraulic oil - often by leaving the tractor out in the rain. Judging from the pictures of that one for sale, it has had a rough life....I mean, just how in the world do you beat up the rear fenders? If a DPO can do that, what kind of abuse has the rest of the tractor had?

About the 3pt hitch being stuck in the up position - it is often just a matter of replacing that O ring and some honing on the cylinder sleeve to get the rust out. But the other thing it can be is something mechnical between the 3pt cylinder and the upper rock shaft. Looking at that picture you posted, I can see that the left hand connecting rod is bent, so there is a possibility that more than the O ring needs replacement.

But the little Ford tractors of that era were unusually good ones. That engine is one of the best, and the tranny too. Parts are available. That one looks to have the shuttle shift, a canopy, and an original loader.
If you don't mind doing some mechanical work, then it is worth 5 to 6 grand if the motor, clutch, and transmission work right. If you are NOT into doing the mechanical work yourself then I'd just stay away.
If everything was working and it was in nicer shape, then $7500 would be a good deal.
rScotty