Semi-DIY ROPS

[ktpnw]

New tractor owner here, picked up a well maintained Satoh Buck with a front end loader for spreading gravel and mulch and other projects for my ~1 acre property.

Question about semi-DIY ROPS. First of all, I know that what I'm suggesting here will not be rated, is not as safe as a true ROPS, etc etc. I understand, and don't need to be told that this is not as safe as a "real" ROPS. I also understand how to drive carefully, use the FEL correctly, etc. ROPS or not, I don't want my new tractor flipped over and damaged. That being said accidents happen, and there are some hills on my property, so I'm considering how to add an extra margin of safety..

As far as I can tell a "real" ROPS does not exist for this tractor (if it does, please point me in the right direction). So my question is, has anyone tried adapting something like this to a small tractor like the Buck? I'm wondering if it could be bolted to the tops of the fenders and then braced somehow to increase strength. In my thinking, in a true worst case scenario of the tractor rolling over down a hill, even one extra second of time to get out/away from it could save me from injury or worse. So even if this is not going to completely stop a full roll, slowing it down is still better than nothing which is what I've got now.

Thanks in advance for any ideas or intel. I've been wanting a tractor my whole life, super excited to finally have one and get to doing some work.

 

[2manyrocks]

Can't speak for your tractor specifically, but most tractor fenders are simply sheet metal and not suitable as a ROPS mounting point. Most ROPS on tractor's I've seen bolt to the rear axle assembly.

 

[Rustyiron]

Go to the rear axle or the bell housing area if there's a suitable attachment point. A little tractor is probably the perfect candidate for a home made roll bar.
Make it taller than you would think is necessary to be above your head. If you lay the tractor on it's side it needs to be tall enough for the now sideways center of gravity to not overcome the newly created "width" (1/4 turn ago it was it height) and continue rolling!
Some will say to add a seat belt but I'm not 100% sure it's always the best thing in every situation like in an automobile.

 

[Roadworthy]

You could do a web search for tractor roll bars (ROPS). I found this one but I've seen others. ROPS - Roll Over Protection System & Structure | Superior Tube Products

 

[ktpnw]

You could do a web search for tractor roll bars (ROPS). I found this one but I've seen others. ROPS - Roll Over Protection System & Structure | Superior Tube Products

Thanks for this, I have done lots of web searching for ROPS specific to my tractor, hadn't come across these guys yet. I will check them out. It does look like they are a manufacturer (not a retailer) but worth a shot.

 

[BlueKnife]

New tractor owner here, picked up a well maintained Satoh Buck with a front end loader for spreading gravel and mulch and other projects for my ~1 acre property.

Question about semi-DIY ROPS. First of all, I know that what I'm suggesting here will not be rated, is not as safe as a true ROPS, etc etc. I understand, and don't need to be told that this is not as safe as a "real" ROPS. I also understand how to drive carefully, use the FEL correctly, etc. ROPS or not, I don't want my new tractor flipped over and damaged. That being said accidents happen, and there are some hills on my property, so I'm considering how to add an extra margin of safety..

As far as I can tell a "real" ROPS does not exist for this tractor (if it does, please point me in the right direction). So my question is, has anyone tried adapting something like this to a small tractor like the Buck? I'm wondering if it could be bolted to the tops of the fenders and then braced somehow to increase strength. In my thinking, in a true worst case scenario of the tractor rolling over down a hill, even one extra second of time to get out/away from it could save me from injury or worse. So even if this is not going to completely stop a full roll, slowing it down is still better than nothing which is what I've got now.

Thanks in advance for any ideas or intel. I've been wanting a tractor my whole life, super excited to finally have one and get to doing some work.

The challenge you'll have is making it sturdy enough to stand up to normal wear and tear. You could bolt it to the fenders, and it'd probably help somewhat in a rollover, but in the mean time, you're more likely to end up tearing up your fenders when the roll bar catches on overhanging branches or the like. Do you have steel fabrication tools and skills?

 

[RayIN]

Is it possible to copy the method of mounting used in the pictures on that Amazon webpage? (plates bolted to transaxle) If so, I think you found your solution.

 

[etpm]

In my thinking, in a true worst case scenario of the tractor rolling over down a hill, even one extra second of time to get out/away from it could save me from injury or worse.

Yeah, that's not the way they work. Even if it slowed down the tractor rolling over by the time it starts the slowing down the tractor is already on its side. If you jump off then you are most likely to end up in the path of the tractor. Jumping off in time is kind of a myth, some folks manage to do so and some folks don't. Then somebody posts about another tractor rollover death. Instead, look for strong attachment points and make your ROPS to suit. Then it will be truly useful in case of a roll over, maybe stopping the tractor from completing the roll. That's why it must be tall, strong, and mounted properly.
Eric

 

[dicktill]

In my thinking, in a true worst case scenario of the tractor rolling over down a hill, even one extra second of time to get out/away from it could save me from injury or worse.

Yeah, that's not the way they work. Even if it slowed down the tractor rolling over by the time it starts the slowing down the tractor is already on its side. If you jump off then you are most likely to end up in the path of the tractor. Jumping off in time is kind of a myth, some folks manage to do so and some folks don't. Then somebody posts about another tractor rollover death. Instead, look for strong attachment points and make your ROPS to suit. Then it will be truly useful in case of a roll over, maybe stopping the tractor from completing the roll. That's why it must be tall, strong, and mounted properly.
Eric

Please use that extra second to grab both arms around the upright arm on the other side of the ROPS; and pull your feet over too. You do not want your arms or legs or body trapped between the ROPS or the tractor and the ground.

 

[etpm]

Please use that extra second to grab both arms around the upright arm on the other side of the ROPS; and pull your feet over too. You do not want your arms or legs or body trapped between the ROPS or the tractor and the ground.

Or you could wear your seat belt which obviates the need to jump.
Eric

 

[ning]

Craigslist in my region often has ads for ROPS that are likely removed from orchard tractors - big orchards on the valley floor where it's utterly flat, my guess is they don't bother with ROPS at all.

Consider also that ROPS can also be mid-mounted

View attachment 2532483


This thread may be useful - the above pics are from it - is this what a ROPS looks like?

@ptsg is very knowledgeable about these systems.

 

[dicktill]

Please use that extra second to grab both arms around the upright arm on the other side of the ROPS; and pull your feet over too. You do not want your arms or legs or body trapped between the ROPS or the tractor and the ground.

Or you could wear your seat belt which obviates the need to jump.
Eric

 

[dicktill]

I agree that the seatbelt is a necessary safety feature, and that jumping is a no-no!

But it is still a good idea to pull your body away from the "down side".

 

[RayIN]

I agree that the seatbelt is a necessary safety feature, and that jumping is a no-no!

But it is still a good idea to pull your body away from the "down side".

FWIW, my operators manual from Massey Ferguson states to always wear the seatbelt with the ROPS upright; then never use the seatbelt with the ROPS folded down.

 

[ptsg]

Craigslist in my region often has ads for ROPS that are likely removed from orchard tractors - big orchards on the valley floor where it's utterly flat, my guess is they don't bother with ROPS at all.

View attachment 2531966

Consider also that ROPS can also be mid-mounted
View attachment 2531967View attachment 2532483


This thread may be useful - the above pics are from it - is this what a ROPS looks like?

@ptsg is very knowledgeable about these systems.

I second the mid mounted ROPS.

Being that those tractors don't really have a good base for a rear mounted ROPS, I would just build one that would tie into the loader mounts. Make it so it folds over the hood and you can work under trees and what not.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

The problem I would see in a DIY ROPS, is if you don't get things right, it can do more harm than good in a roll over or lay down situation, by bending and trapping the operator.

Folks, engineering a ROPS is serious business, and probably isn't a good candidate for a DIY project.

I'm a degreed and licensed engineer. I would be seriously hesitant to design a ROPS system. Too far outside my specialty area. Kind of thing I would have happily done in my youth, but as I have aged, and gained wisdom, I learned that only a fool thinks they are qualified to do everything, and there are things best left to others who are specialized.

 

[Renze]

I'm a degreed and licensed engineer. I would be seriously hesitant to design a ROPS system. Too far outside my specialty area.

I have designed ROPS structures, but the proof is in the pudding: Whatever you design has to be tested, with mounting points similar to the real life application. For wheel loaders back when i was still in that business, the standard was first a vertical load equal to the max registered weight of the machine, and then a sideway load: It didnt just gave to hold that load but it had to absorb energy by deformation, so a too stiff structure wouldnt be approved either.
You can just find the ISO norms on it. Problem as said, would be testing and registrating it.

Either way, no rops or a homemade rops is indifferent to me: Just dont do stupid things in which you rely on the Rops completely, as you'd be the first one to test it.

And does it make a difference in liability if it had no Rops, or a homemade Rops if you lend it out ?

 

[AntiqueIron]

The CDC had a homemade rops program a while back, called “CROPS.” (Cost effective roll over protection structures) for older tractors like a 3000 ford or TO-20 fergie.

It wouldn’t be a perfect guide for you but there’s some good design info on there.

As already mentioned by others, the strength of the final drives has a lot to do with it. The letter series Farmalls don’t have aftermarket rops for that reason.

 

[Ken45101]

Absolutely, a seat belt is a necessary part of ROPS.

The Canadian farm safety program has statistics on ROPS. There is a high DEATH rate without ROPS. With ROPS, out of 98 roll overs, zero fatalities or serious injuries.

According to the National Ag Safety Database (NASD): National data suggest that 1 of every 10 tractor operators overturn a tractor in their lifetime.

If you have an older model tractor on your farm that isn’t ready to retire, you may have the option to retrofit your tractor with a ROPS safely and effectively at a minimal cost. ROPS are a simple and highly effective way to eliminate the injury and fatality associated with tractor rollovers. ROPS in combination with seatbelts are 99% effective at reducing serious injury and fatalities from tractor rollovers. In Canada, the leading cause of farm-work-related deaths is tractor rollovers which account for 25% of deaths. Approximately half of all tractors in use in Canada are still being operated without a ROPS.