Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck

[paulsharvey]

My old Central Pneumatic compressor has been acting up. It seems like a start capacitor, but frankly I haven't dug into it yet, it was dark, and like 30 degrees last night. I did see the McGraw 3 gal light duty compressors are on sale for $51 right now. I was thinking about picking one up while I dig into the 8 gal. What's yalls impression on those small 3 gal models?

 

[jyoutz]

My old Central Pneumatic compressor has been acting up. It seems like a start capacitor, but frankly I haven't dug into it yet, it was dark, and like 30 degrees last night. I did see the McGraw 3 gal light duty compressors are on sale for $51 right now. I was thinking about picking one up while I dig into the 8 gal. What's yalls impression on those small 3 gal models?View attachment 2158701View attachment 2158702

I have one. It’s good for filling tires and running small hand tools like brad staplers, and that’s about it. I also have a 20 gallon Central Pneumatic for more taxing jobs and so far it works well.

 

[California]

My old Central Pneumatic compressor has been acting up. It seems like a start capacitor, but frankly I haven't dug into it yet ... the McGraw 3 gal light duty compressors are on sale for $51 right now. What's yalls impression on those small 3 models?

I have the previous 10 gallon Central Pneumatic compressor similar to yours. After 20 years it started acting wonky. I found all the components to rebuild the controls, on Ebay and Amazon. Everything is universal, generic. The overload/restart button, pressure regulator with gauges, safety relief valve. (watch out, HF used BSP threads for that, not the near identical USP). Now it's good for another 20 years.

However - it makes so much noise I avoided using it until necessary. Recently I got HF's little 2 gallon Fortress 'silent' compressor and now I'm glad I paid a little more for it compared to the simple ones. It just hums, not intrusive. I put it in series ahead of the 10 gallon, and start it first, so I can usually do a session with the impact wrench etc with the big one starting only rarely. Recommended! This is one case where paying more is very much worth it.

 

[Gregster613]

I have the previous 10 gallon Central Pneumatic compressor similar to yours. After 20 years it started acting wonky. I found all the components to rebuild the controls, on Ebay and Amazon. Everything is universal, generic. The overload/restart button, pressure regulator with gauges, safety relief valve. (watch out, HF used BSP threads for that, not the near identical USP). Now it's good for another 20 years.

However - it makes so much noise I avoided using it until necessary. Recently I got HF's little 2 gallon Fortress 'silent' compressor and now I'm glad I paid a little more for it compared to the simple ones. It just hums, not intrusive. I put it in series ahead of the 10 gallon, and start it first, so I can usually do a session with the impact wrench etc with the big one starting only rarely. Recommended! This is one case where paying more is very much worth it.

Good info to know, Thanks California. I don't quite understand the comment about putting it in series with another compressor. I've read about that on here before. How exactly does one put a pair of compressors together? Do you hard line one to another? Do you want one to pump air into the others tank? An explanation or a picture might help me understand it better. Thanks Greg

 

[California]

How exactly does one put a pair of compressors together? Do you hard line one to another?

I added a T at the outlet of the old compressor's regulator, and piped in the little guy's air there with a rubber air hose. This can fill the noisy one's tank without that one starting.

Everything downstream from that T is same as before. 6 ft of rubber hose screwed right into the T. (this is easier to wind up when not in use). Then an oversize coupler set, which feeds 50 ft of air hose. Keeping the main hose separate makes it easier to wind up lying on the floor, compared to hanging it all on the compressor.

I just looked, and don't see the 3/8" oversize air fittings listed on HF any more. Amazon has them. They make a big improvement in impact wrench strength.

The little Fortress cuts off at 135 psi while the old General Pneumatic turns off at 120. (I don't know the cut-in settings) I have them on separate 20 amp switched circuits, and let the Fortress fill both tanks before starting the larger compressor. The Fortress is the first to begin when pressure drops so the noisy one may not need to start for light use, for example the dusting nozzle, the impact wrench, topping up tires, etc.

 

[California]

I found a photo I posted here previously showing the difference between 1/4 and 3/8 air fittings.

The larger ones are compatible with hoses and tools, they have 1/4" threads.

 

[Gregster613]

I added a T at the outlet of the old compressor's regulator, and piped in the little guy's air there with a rubber air hose. This can fill the noisy one's tank without that one starting.

Everything downstream from that T is same as before. 6 ft of rubber hose screwed right into the T. (this is easier to wind up when not in use). Then an oversize coupler set, which feeds 50 ft of air hose. Keeping the main hose separate makes it easier to wind up lying on the floor, compared to hanging it all on the compressor.

I just looked, and don't see the 3/8" oversize air fittings listed on HF any more. Amazon has them. They make a big improvement in impact wrench strength.

The little Fortress cuts off at 135 psi while the old General Pneumatic turns off at 120. (I don't know the cut-in settings) I have them on separate 20 amp switched circuits, and let the Fortress fill both tanks before starting the larger compressor. The Fortress is the first to begin when pressure drops so the noisy one may not need to start for light use, for example the dusting nozzle, the impact wrench, topping up tires, etc.

Thanks for the explanation; that's kind of what I thought and makes a lot of sense. Did you add the tee "before" the regulator or "after"? I would think it would need to be "before" as the regulator is one-way flow isn't it?
Sorry if that's a dumb question but I'm not sure of the flow through the regulator. It just seems as if it's a one-way flow. I understand about everything downstream being the same as before and feeding the tools, just the feeding of the main tank is what I was confused about. It's a lot clearer now except for where you added the tee? At the "outlet of the old compressor" could mean after the regulator - which is fine IF the regulator is a two way flow?
Thanks for the advise. Greg

 

[California]

Did you add the tee "before" the regulator or "after"?

After the large compressor's regulator. I didn't think this through like you are doing. It just works.

Now considering this in more detail, I think in theory the large tank's regulator would remain open only until pressure in its tank reaches the regulator set pressure. (120 psi) But then because I have plenty of air for a while, this might mean that the large tank keeps filling until the small compressor (135psi) cuts off, so I have 135 psi provided from both tanks for a while.

Good question. If you are right, I'm not stressing the 20 year old tank beyond its design limit, 120psi. But if the whole 135 psi is getting shoved in there then it's good that that rig is back in a corner behind a big workbench!

If I needed a certain regulated air pressure then the inlet T before the outlet regulator would be better. But my use isn't that sophisticated.

For painting (rare) I set up with a regulator/water separator at the far end of the hose with a short hose from there to the gun.

 

[5030]

For the small amount of painting I do, a rattle can works fine and no moisture to deal with either.

 

[5030]

My old Central Pneumatic compressor has been acting up. It seems like a start capacitor, but frankly I haven't dug into it yet, it was dark, and like 30 degrees last night. I did see the McGraw 3 gal light duty compressors are on sale for $51 right now. I was thinking about picking one up while I dig into the 8 gal. What's yalls impression on those small 3 gal models?View attachment 2158701View attachment 2158702

As with ANY low CFM delivery compressor, especially an oil less one, they all blow (literally). Oil less compressors have a pretty short run life as well and they are noisy to boot.

My 30 year old Quincy QP pressure lubed compressor will be chugging along, long after those cheapo ones will be in a landfill. You always get what you pat for. Pay little, get little. Nice thing about a quality compressor is, not only will it outlast you but the heads are removable so you can de-carbon the reed valves which all get carboned up when making air pressure. That and a quality compressor will be inter-cooled which reduces moisture buildup in the receiver and I run a Tsunami timed condensate drain on my compressors so I don't have to manually drain them as well.

Initial cost is high but ROI makes them a good investment. My Quincy has a life expectancy (before a major rebuild) of 5000 hours.