oneal hicks
New member
If it is only a sealer issue all you may need is a simple thin coat of grease on all mating surfaces and a proper torque of the head bolts? This is the Old school method that has worked for years. (We often over think issues)
I see a lot of good suggestions on here. There are some not so good. And I’m glad I have the knowledge to separate them The good on here far outweighs the bad so I’m staying. It’s always refreshing to learn somethingAnother good reason why it's not advisable to seek advice on a message board!
That is correct because when you torque the head bolts to spec, the 'stretch' a tad and need to be renewed.I don't know it this was mentioned but anytime you pull
the head toss the old head bolts and replace with new. As
the head is not friendly to the head bolts!
willy
A C series Cummins that I replaced the head on was $16/bolt from the local CaseIH dealer. If I remember correctly there are 26 bolts. Not my definition of a cheap date! And you didn't have any choice either. They were torque to yield head bolts. I could very well have sourced them cheaper somewhere else but I didn't look.Exactly, but then again, new head bolts on any motor are a pretty cheap date.
I tend to buy my torque to yield capscrews from Fastenal or Motion Industries versus a dealer. OEM TTY capscrews tend to have a huge markup when sourced from a dealer. Some stuff is necessary from a dealer, some isn't.A C series Cummins that I replaced the head on was $16/bolt from the local CaseIH dealer. If I remember correctly there are 26 bolts. Not my definition of a cheap date! And you didn't have any choice either. They were torque to yield head bolts. I could very well have sourced them cheaper somewhere else but I didn't look.