Land plane for gravel driveway?

[L321]

I have a Yanmar 1700 I bought to maintain my gravel driveway, about 1/8 mile. 1/3 of the drive is solely mine and 2/3 of it are shared. My part is #57 gravel and basically just need to spread/level the gravel. The remaining 2/3 is finer material, packed hard with some potholes. I have a 5 foot grader blade and used it to spread gravel on mine, but couldn't get it nice and level.

I am thinking a land plane may be more useful for my situation. Looks like it could get the gravel on my part nice and level and I could use it on the shared part without risk of making it worse. If this is accurate, what do I need in a land plane? I'm thinking 4 foot wide? Does it need scarifies to fix the potholes? Would one of the cheap ones ($600-800) work for this situation or is it worth it for the beefier ones ($1500-2000)? Also considering building one myself.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[zzvyb6]

Maybe, but look into a 'york rake'. Basically a multi-tined 3 pt attachment. If equipped with gauge wheels, chain for a top link and running at 30 to 45 degrees, it will smooth out any ruts or potholes and comb the crumbles to the center. You need a wide one, too because you want to cover both driveway directions when the angle is at 30-45 degrees. When it's been combed like this, make a run with the rake at zero angle to make a flat topped roadway. When I had gravel (about 800' of it), I would use my 3pt rototiller to bring the gravel back up. After a rainy day, it's no big deal to till it. May bounce a bit and scare the neighbors dog from the sound. It will also double the speeds that visitors or delivery trucks approach your house with.

 

[Smokeydog]

Our driveway is steep, winding and must withstand 60” rain per year. 2” of rain tonight mostly in a few hours. Most of driveway is a 300year old wagon trail that has large rocks in the gullies. Now covered with crushed stone. Can’t really use scarifiers. Maintaining pitch and crown essential getting water off the road.

Have used the scarifiers to help level lawn and pasture areas.

The way the landplane works to classify, distribute and level with minimum base disturbance has eliminated potholes. Easily maintains a more durable road base. Grading uphill is can tax a 60hp, 4x4 tractor in some spots with 6’ land plane. Haven’t used the grader blade or box blade on the driveway since buying the landplane.

 

[steve tym]

My land plane works good on my 1/2 mile driveway. The skid shoes wear fast, keep an eye on them. I try to keep the rear blade so it never overflows, it just kinda clips the high spots.
Pot holes need to be dug out, not just filled, they will come back.
Then I bought a Cat 12N grader and haven't touched the land plane since, I'll probably sell it. I'm no grader operator, but boy, does it do a nice job.

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long gravel driveway - straight as an arrow - with a deep valley in the middle. The driveway was constructed in 1982. After 40 years of use - by only me - the surface is now a mix of rock, gravel, sand, silt and volcanic ash. It dries out after spring rains and becomes as hard as 30 year old concrete.

I use three implements to maintain the driveway. Rear blade - Land Plane Grading Scraper with scarifiers and a Roll Over Box blade.

About once every three years or so - I "redo" the surface by grading material out of the ditches. This has allowed me to maintain the driveway in good condition w/out purchasing more gravel.

My driveway is not perfect - its a true country driveway. I have better use for my $$$$ than to keep it in showroom status.

Besides - there are benefits to having a driveway with a few imperfections. Slows those down who would like to drive 45+ down the driveway.

 

[dj1701]

I have a Yanmar 1700 I bought to maintain my gravel driveway, about 1/8 mile. 1/3 of the drive is solely mine and 2/3 of it are shared. My part is #57 gravel and basically just need to spread/level the gravel. The remaining 2/3 is finer material, packed hard with some potholes. I have a 5 foot grader blade and used it to spread gravel on mine, but couldn't get it nice and level.

I am thinking a land plane may be more useful for my situation. Looks like it could get the gravel on my part nice and level and I could use it on the shared part without risk of making it worse. If this is accurate, what do I need in a land plane? I'm thinking 4 foot wide? Does it need scarifies to fix the potholes? Would one of the cheap ones ($600-800) work for this situation or is it worth it for the beefier ones ($1500-2000)? Also considering building one myself.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

I bought a land plane for maintaining my drive and short of a Harley rake, I believe it's the best tool for the task. I got the 48" one and although the Kubota BX will pull it, it works better behind the 4320. Should have bought the 72"

 

[Gordon Gould]

I use a rear blade and a landplane to maintain my long drive. It's make up varies from good base and 3/4 gravel surface to old logging road with some 3/4 crushed stone mixed in. We also have a spring mud season. I use the blade to contour for good water run off and I use the landplane for surface maintenance. You want a heavy land plane. Mine is 5' wide and 650 lbs. I do not have scarifiers.

Rear blade

Landplane

Rear blade

Landplane

gg

 

[oosik]

dj1701 - one could say - "the chosen path was a bit wet". I have a 80 foot section in my driveway that has the same problem. Neighbors field drains down onto my driveway. AND - it's a real PITA to keep it draining on beyond my driveway.

Folks have said to me - more gravel, more gravel, and on and on. Gravel is not the problem at this spot in my driveway. Drainage is the problem.

All the land around these parts is classified as Open Range Land. This means - no fences. The cows can go just about anywhere.

I almost split a gut when visitors say - "Do you know there are stray cows on your driveway? How often do you have to scoop their poo off your driveway?" City folks should do a U-turn when they see that - City Limits sign.

The cows like my muddy section. They stomp the living daylights out of this area. Makes annual maintenance just a tad more challenging. However - all the cow poo might help bind things together. One can never tell.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Landplane at work

The land plane is my go-to road tool. I use way more often than the rear blade. Keeping the surface in good shape helps maintain the road contour.

gg

 

[steve tym]

Weight is your friend. Mine is a 6', wish it was bigger. That's why I bought the 12N, 12' mold board.

 

[L321]

Thanks for all the replies! Seems like a land plane would be a good investment for me. I'm really leaning toward building my own. Would a 5 foot plane be too much for my little Yanmar 1700? The drive is mostly flat with one incline in a sharp turn.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I pull my 5'er with a 5000 lb 4WD 30 hp L3010. Traction is the key not so much hp. Tractor weight and tires count. It is all the tractor can do pulling the 5' landplane up this hill.

gg

 

[MotorSeven]

Years ago I bought a Grade master U7, 7' with the 2 angled blades. I was thinking wider and heavier would be better and it does work amazingly well. Looking back, I think a 4 or 5' would have been better to maintain the crown since most driveways are only 8 to 10' in width. All in all it has been a great investment.

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[oosik]

I have a seven foot Land Pride - LPGS. It weighs 820 pounds. It pulls like there is nothing back there on the 3-point. My difference. My Kubota M6040 weighs 10,000 pounds and has R-1 tires. FEL plus grapple on the front - 1550 pounds of RimGuard in the rear tires plus the 820 pound LPGS on the 3-point. Weight is what makes the difference.

Even with the scarifiers - full down - it's only noticeable when making contact with a large rock. I only use the scarifiers to fix pot holes, riffles and the mud hole. Otherwise - both blades are set one and a half inches below the side boards.

One thing I like about my LPGS. The blades are reversible and adjustable on the carriers. AND the carrier itself is adjustable within the grader.

 

[Gordon Gould]

^^^^ All true about the ease pulling 7'er but you also said your road is flat. A good hill makes a huge difference.

gg

 

[oosik]

^^^^ All true about the ease pulling 7'er but you also said your road is flat. A good hill makes a huge difference.

gg

Very true Gordon. My flat driveway does have a valley. Right in the middle. Steep entrance - 150 feet across - steep out. I've never had problem with the LPGS in the summer - in the valley.

Winter is a totally different story. Fields melt and the water can run down the road on the east side of the valley. This will eventually freeze and make for some wildly exciting times plowing snow. Ditching will help but the ditch silts up and the neighbors cows love to play in this wet area. The drainage ditch will eventually freeze up - water will still run and come down the driveway.

My answer. Always plow snow DOWN into the valley on the east side. It takes longer to do it this way. However - I'm not likely to slide off the road and roll to the bottom of the valley. The driveway across the valley is built up. Go off the driveway in the valley - it's 20 feet, down to the floor of the valley.

I only have a 30 foot wide easement from the county road to my property ( one mile ). I didn't bring enough gold when we came down from Alaska to build a bridge across this valley.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I used a 72" landplane for several years behind my old Kubota L3010 to maintain my 1.25 mile private gravel road. The 30HP tractor had no trouble pulling it, but due to the numerous grade changes, I had difficulty adjusting it so it wouldn't move more material than was necessary. I eventually sold it and bought an 8' York rake with scarifier, flip up grader blade and gauge wheels.

I found the rake to be much more versatile in it's ability to control the quantity of material, crown, cut & clean ditches and rake material back into the road after Winter plowing.

One thing you can do with the rake is to raise the grader blade, set the gauge wheels and use the tines with the tractor in high gear. A couple of passes and the roadway is smooth and dead level with no material ridges left on the sides.

For large grading projects on roads with a fairly even contour, a landplane may be more efficient but for doing routine maintenance, I find the rake to be much quicker.

Of course a lot depends on operator skill and personal preference so YMMV.

 

[GearHead2024]

I have a Yanmar 1700 I bought to maintain my gravel driveway, about 1/8 mile. 1/3 of the drive is solely mine and 2/3 of it are shared. My part is #57 gravel and basically just need to spread/level the gravel. The remaining 2/3 is finer material, packed hard with some potholes. I have a 5 foot grader blade and used it to spread gravel on mine, but couldn't get it nice and level.

I am thinking a land plane may be more useful for my situation. Looks like it could get the gravel on my part nice and level and I could use it on the shared part without risk of making it worse. If this is accurate, what do I need in a land plane? I'm thinking 4 foot wide? Does it need scarifies to fix the potholes? Would one of the cheap ones ($600-800) work for this situation or is it worth it for the beefier ones ($1500-2000)? Also considering building one myself.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

When it comes to land levelers and planes higher quality definitely pays for itself. All it takes is one well placed root or rock and the cheaper ones get all bent out of shape. Next thing you know your "plane" will be anything but flat.

Go with one that allows you to easily replace the cutting edges as the sharp edge will wear out with use. I'm personally partial to the one sold by Catawba Attachments. It's as tough as they come.

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[Gordon Gould]

I used a 72" landplane for several years behind my old Kubota L3010 to maintain my 1.25 mile private gravel road. The 30HP tractor had no trouble pulling it, but due to the numerous grade changes, I had difficulty adjusting it so it wouldn't move more material than was necessary. I eventually sold it and bought an 8' York rake with scarifier, flip up grader blade and gauge wheels.

I am surprised that you had trouble controlling the aggressiveness of your landplane on the fly with your hydraulic top link. For my landplane set-up the hydraulic top link allows a lot of finesse when encountering grade changes. Allows me to keep the skids flat on the surface thru a grade transition. Maybe it is a matter of landplane geometry difference ??? Even on flat going I use the T-L to keep the cut the way I want as the road surface changes. Shorten the top link for a more aggressive cut. Lengthen it for less aggressive.

gg

 

[bdhsfz6]

I am surprised that you had trouble controlling the aggressiveness of your landplane on the fly with your hydraulic top link. For my landplane set-up the hydraulic top link allows a lot of finesse when encountering grade changes. Allows me to keep the skids flat on the surface thru a grade transition. Maybe it is a matter of landplane geometry difference ??? Even on flat going I use the T-L to keep the cut the way I want as the road surface changes. Shorten the top link for a more aggressive cut. Lengthen it for less aggressive.

gg

Actually, I added the T&T kit after I sold the landplane. Yes, it likely would have helped. I probably should have kept the LP but I needed cash to buy the rake.

I still like the rake for leveling the material ridges left on the road edges and raking plowed off material back onto the road surface. Yes, the LP would do that as well but it drags grass & dirt in the process. The rake tines leave most of that behind and just move the gravel. The LP is also tough to use when creating & cleaning ditches.

Both implements have their advantages, and it would be nice to have both, but for the work I do, the rake is the most versatile.